Hi Stovebolters, The automatic choke has started acting up this summer on our 1952 1/2 ton pickup. It has a 1956 235 car motor with the Rochester carburetor with an automatic choke. Has always worked excellent until this summer. Starts up well after depressing accelerator but idle only lowers slightly when I depress the accelerator following start up - stays on a much too fast idle. Once driven the idle lowers to a proper level within a quarter of a mile or so. Once the idle comes down it runs smoothly and idles properly from then on. Also starts quickly without the choke throughout the day. I do not notice any vacuum leaks, so I'm thinking adjustment or cleaning. Any advice would be appreciated.
May be a bit sticky. Try spraying the linkage with carb cleaner and work it good. Then spray again.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Do you have the sheet metal stove apparatus on the exhaust manifold which provides the heat source for making the bi-metalic spring to open the choke plate at the correct time?
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
All these carburetors sucked up a bunch of schmutz through the tube leading to the exhaust manifold. If you take one apart, you'll see carbon (black) residue in the entire choke area. Spraying with carb cleaner will help a little. The best answer is to remove the carburetor and clean & polish the little piston (that is what stops working smoothly when it gets dirty). I've always wondered why nobody ever came up with a little filter to put between the carburetor and the exhaust manifold. Something you could replace every 10,000 miles or so would have stopped that problem for good.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Hello 52Carl and Jon, I believe the tube from choke to manifold goes into the manifold without the sheet metal shield. I will check for sure tomorrow when I go to our storage garage and work on our truck. Will also remove the tube and make sure it is clear. Will get back with you tomorrow. Thank you, guys. Chuck
The tube definitely has a heat shield that clamps to the exhaust manifold as 52carl says. Here is a picture of what it looks like.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Thanks to All. Spraying the linkage, fast idle cam and set screw with carb cleaner seemed to do the trick. Started up fine and fast idle kick down with depressing the accelerator. Chuck
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)