I need to remove the bellhousing and flywheel from my seized-up 216 Babbitt. We've taken off the obvious bolts but the flywheel won't move at all so we can't access the internal bolts. I've soaked it in Kroil Oil, and we've done everything we can think of/read about. Ideas?!
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
Can you say BFH? I'd try a soft face dead blow hammer if you're trying to save the flywheel. Since you can't turn it, you may need to wedge a prybar behind the flywheel on the top side, then whack it again. Keep working at it. It will eventually come off.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
@ Kevinski - Yes! We thought we'd found a 235 but hubby spotted captain bars when we got home. 😊 It's a 261 out of a '61 pickup truck. I hated to lose the Babbitt but since he'll be a daily driver, being able to go the speed limit will be a plus. LoL IDK if I'll get flagged for posting a picture here but I'll try. I just uploaded some to the "Journals" board.
@ klhansen - You can say that again! LoL Thanks for the tip! There was another lady looking for a flywheel from a 6 volt so I was going to try and salvage it too. At the end of the day I need my bellhousing for my 261, so whatever it takes to get that sucker off.
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
Maria, Looking at your pictures, You have taken the clutch off of the flywheel? In the fourth picture, that bolt does not hold the flywheel on. There are 6 blots behind the clutch disc that hold the flywheel to the crank shaft.
Depending on the size of the clutch disc, there will be either 6 or 9 bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. You'll be able to reach a few of them through the opening at the bottom of the bell housing, and some creative tinkering with a ratchet and some universal joint sockets through the square hole in the bellhousing can usually get the rest of them out. Once the clutch disc and pressure plate is removed, there are 6 bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft. As a last resort, remove the oil pan and unbolt some or all of the connecting rod caps. That will let you turn the crankshaft a little for better access to the clutch bolts. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I forgot about the clutch pressure plate being an issue, and assumed you had that off as well. So unless you've got to the 6 bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft, please don't apply the BFH yet. I was assuming the flywheel was still stuck after it was unbolted. Since the engine is seized, probably the easiest route is remove the pan and the crankshaft, complete with flywheel and clutch still attached, as has been suggested.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Start with the clutch fork should pop off ,then as Jerry stated work around the clutch disc using the bottom and the cover hole at the top .I think once the clutch is off the flywheel The bolts should have enough room for the socket just be carfull if I remember right the bolts for the flywheel have a thin head so you will have to make shure the socket stays on tight when loosening so it don’t slip off
Even if you get the rod caps and main bearings unbolted, there's still the issue of the timing gears and the plate between the timing cover and the block to deal with. It's a lot simpler to put all that effort into making the pistons move, even if you have to do it with heat, a block of hard wood, and a sledge hammer. I've also seen people use a cutting torch and hack the rods off just above the crankshaft and at the wrist pins to allow the crank to turn a little. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!