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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 | Does anyone know what causes paint to orange peel? Do I have to strip it all back off or can it be fixed? I'm not a paint & body man. I sanded(dash on '53 Chevy 3100), primered, painted (satin black). All rattle can. I don't have a sprayer. Duplicolor brand primer and paint. The whole dash is orange peeled. The only reason I know what "orange peel" is, is because a paint and body man, I had paint delivered to (ISS @ O'Reilly Auto Parts), showed me what "Nason" clear coat did to his customer's fender. Help please.
“Old Blue” 1953 Chevrolet 3100
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | Here is some info on orange peel. You probably didn't stay close enough to the surface and the paint partially dried before it hit the surface.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 | klhansen:
Thank you! Looks exactly what I need. Much appreciated. This is still the best forum for our old trucks on the web!
“Old Blue” 1953 Chevrolet 3100
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,841 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,841 | With a gun it would be too much air pressure/not enough liquid, too fast of a reducer/too warm environment, hot surface or direct sunlight. With a rattle can too far away/too light of coverage, surface too warm.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
| | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 73 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 73 | PaPa Joe, depending on how heavy the orange peel is, you can correct it with light sanding (wet or dry). I use 400/600 grit paper with light pressure. Let it set at least 24 hrs because you have removed the cured surface and exposed softer paint. If you spray another coat to soon it could lift or wrinkle. You next coat should cover any peel present. A final coat of clear will help flatten it out too if the peel is light. If you do clear, lightly sand prior to spraying the clear. You got options, just sucks to do rework. “I feel your pain” | | | | | Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 197 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 197 | what brand of paint did you use?
Some paints will do better than others if where you are working is a high temperature, where I live it's almost a 100 outside for most of spring and summer.
I have had alot of paint orange peal or fish eye or drip when getting closer to avoid orange pealing, especially when using rattle cans.
personally I recommend Rustolium paint and primer, with the can stored in a cool location (but not cold)
as always with a rattle can you may have spots that need a little sanding or cleaning up one way or the other.
Good luck on your journey.
62' GMC Fleetside 3/4 ton 235 4-speed.
Time makes fools of us all.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Nov 2012 Posts: 240 | Thanks for all the great info. I sanded down the dash and started from scratch. This time it looks great. You all are great!
“Old Blue” 1953 Chevrolet 3100
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