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| | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,297 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | I've been stalling on sanding off my hood, which has had a couple of ugly growths under the primer it came with. So today I figured I'd better get started on it, and took my wire wheel on a 4" angle grinder, and my dewalt orbital sander out and got to work. Well, time has not been kind and the rust has spread around the hood. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1373/13685773/24611517/414470660.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1373/13685773/24611517/414470659.jpgI'm not ready to restore the truck yet, but it sure needs a coat of primer before winter hits. If I shoot it on as is, it will look like a cauliflower, so I'm trying to find something that will smooth out the rough spots and kill the rust, too. I'm not the least bit interested in bondo, so that's out. Seems I've read somewhere that there's a type of POR15 that's also has metal filling qualities, and the term silver comes to mind. Is this true? Could I fill this cover this with a thin coat of POR15 (after etching it)? If so, is it sandable? I need to shoot something on here by this weekend, so I'm hoping this will work. Thanks, Lee
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | If you can get it nice and clean, and none of the pits goes all the way through, I'd shoot it with epoxy primer. Best would be sandblasted, then primer. You can worry about the pits later. JB Weld is an option over the epoxy, and it's also epoxy.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | Nothing short of sandblasting is called for on that hood. Once the rust is completely eliminated, body filler over epoxy primer will smooth it out nicely.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | What Carl said. Sandblast it. POR-15 site lists an epoxy putty - the only thing I can see there that would be a filler. Probably very similar to JB Weld. If you're worried about it over the winter, anything but epoxy primer won't give much protection against moisture and rust. Appearance wise, just degrease it and shoot it with some rattle can enamel. You're going to need to remove anything you put on later if you don't sandblast it.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 | I had a very pitted fender, blasted it and then used spray filler, Reface, sanded it baby-[censored] smooth, worked great. I also used this stuff on a front grille, same result. | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 | If you use any primer besides epoxy, water will go right through it and rust the metal. Traditional primers do not provide a waterproof coating.
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 back yard wrench turner | back yard wrench turner Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 | the term silver comes to mind. Is this true? Yes what you are referring to is Master Series Silver. It's originally used as a bridge paint. It will fill pin holes, it will seal gas tanks, it is sandable. It will stop rust. https://shop.masterseriesct.com/product.sc?productId=8 Wayne1938 1-Ton Farm Truck-30- Stovebolt Gallery ForumsWhen I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it! | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,955 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,955 | Needs a lot of sanding but should come off ,por 15 is hard stuff and would be hard to smooth out after you put it on As a back yard specialist lol ,I would try sanding it out or as suggested sandblast .If you don’t have sandblaster and have a compressor they sell a cheep hand held gun type that I have used for small spots that will work . | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | I agree with the sandblasting option here but, with that pitting and the hood’s thinness, you’d better be VERY careful. I feel you’re gonna open up a block of Swiss cheese when you blast that hood in that spot. Be careful. | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | There's no way sanding can get to the bottom of rust pits to clean them out, short of sanding the whole thing to paper thin. At that point you might as well replace the whole hood.
An alternative to sandblasting (agree with Fox on being careful doing that), would be to build a dam out of modeling clay around the affected area and soak it with something like Evaporust to remove the rust, then clean it and paint with epoxy primer, then fill and paint. There's a possibility the Evaporust will disappear thru pits that are deep enough, but it is more gentle than sandblasting.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 73 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 73 | Once you get it rust free and cleaned, All Metal filler may be an option. Summit Racing distributes it. | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Ok, forgot i started this, but I wire wheeled, etched and painted Silver POR15 on all the worst spots, which was about half the roof and a lot of smaller spots on the hood. I had to wait 4 or 5 days before I shot some more flat black rustoleum to get it covered up before the fall rains and winter hit. The por15 filled the pitted areas pretty well, at least good enough for now. Sometime down the road i intend to do a frame up restoration, but now is not the time. The old flat black had faded to gray, and the surface rust couldn't wait any longer. I masked it off and shot it with my cheapo paint gun. Guys kept driving by and saying, "looking good!", which i know full well it looks like an amateur crap job, but i just said it's what i call a "better than it was" paint job, which is true, but that's not saying much. Anyway, it's done (for now), so it's time now for adjusting valves, installing the new headliner, new king pins and front tires because of the kp's, oil change, tune up, and the list goes on. But at least it's back in black. Thanks for all the help and suggestion, everybody! Lee Butcher http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1373/13685773/24611517/414481334.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1373/13685773/24611517/414481333.jpg
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | | | |
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