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1 members (baldeagle),
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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,037 Posts1,055,467 Members48,424 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 9 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 9 | We just droped in a SB in our 41 1/2t. Just like everyone else exaust clearance problems. Moved the steering box back approx 2". Now everything clears. We used Hooker Block Huggers headers. Can anyone tell me how this will affect the steering and what to do to fix it. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 159 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 159 | Can you turn the same distance right to left as before ? If you can still turn against the stops I would say it won't be an issue.
In the works 2006 GEN III 6.0 /4L80E/ 205 New process,A/C and power brakes .
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 96 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 96 | I'm in the middle of a v8 swap for my '42, Sure would like to see some pictures! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,029 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,029 | I would think that the drag link would now be two inches short and you won't be able to turn much to the left. This may suit you if you are very conservative;-) | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 96 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 96 | Right on Rick, Nice work. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 13 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 13 | IF you have move steer box back 2" the drag link needs to be 2" longer 424x4 | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 96 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 96 | They are right you have to lengthen the drag link 2”. That is what I originally did. But you have to make sure your steering box is centered. After I redid the interior I ended up upgrading to an adjustable drag link, so I could adjust or center the box / steering. I used a couple of heim joints and tie rod I got from speedway to make my own. The ball ends in the pitman arm and steering arms are the same. So you could use the modern tie rod ends also. They posted a Tech Tip on this a little while ago which you could also check out. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 96 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 96 | Did you have to shorten the steering column? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 96 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 96 | If you stay with the original column you would have to shorten it. There are some kits out there for this. I went with an 80's GM column. You just have to find a column with the features you want. The shaft inside the original column is a solid 3/4". The common size they use today. A DD is a 3/4 shaft cut down, a splined shaft is 3/4" or you can pin a 3/4". Originally I put in a collapsible center piece. I modified it later using a borgeson joint. They have some good info on their site on joints and shafting. | | |
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