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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,267 Members48,100 | | Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 59 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 59 | Any one know how to fix a park brake so it will lock when pushed down? '50 GMC 150. Thx. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | I would guess that the lock has been worn. It needs a fairly sharp edge where the pedal shaft goes thru it to grab the shaft. Could also be that the spring is weak as well. You might be able to remove the locking bar and use a file to "sharpen" the hole. Otherwise, you probably need to replace the locking bar.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2017 Posts: 309 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2017 Posts: 309 | Make sure your lock bar is paint/rust free. I had to sand mine to insure it held--Good Luck--Bill | | | | | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 354 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 354 | I had the same problem on my '41. Removed the ratchet and sharpened it with a file. It's very hard, wore out a 3 corner file sharpening the teeth but it works now.
Harold Wilson
41 Chevy 3/4 Ton
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 649 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 649 | What has worked for me, was putting more "bend" in the for lack of better name the arm that the shaft goes through. | | |
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