so I'm working on unseizing this old stovebolt hopefully have her on the road again ssomday anyways here's my cast numbers and I'm soaking my engine in deisel mystery oil and atf fluid to unseize but I cannot find the correct nut or whatnot to turn the crank any ideas considering jumping it by moving it in gear slowly but looking for other options
Hy Whimpy, that picture is of a balancer retaining bolt and I would not use that to try and turn a seized engine, I would jack the truck up and put some axle stands under it then remove the flywheel cover from underneath at the bellhousing and use a pry bar on the flywheel teeth to try and work the flywheel back and forth. Incidentally, that engine is not a 235, it is most likely a 230 or 250 it is not a 292. Your truck appears to be at least a 1965 model and 235s only went to 1962, 1963 in some 4X4 trucks, hope that helps.
Putting enough torque on that bolt to try to turn a seized-up engine will do one of two things- - - -strip the threads or break the bolt, or unscrew it, depending on which way you're trying to turn it. Neither one will help accomplish anything. I second the suggestion to jack the truck up and pry on the flywheel teeth, BUT- - - -given the terrain you're working on, use big square wood blocks like sections of railroad ties, not jack stands, to support the frame. Unpaved ground is notorious for letting a jack stand sink in and tilt, and dropping a vehicle on yourself isn't a good thing! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Ok Whimpy, I see you are fairly new to the forum so let me pass on a little advise. First, posting the same question in multiple forums is not good Forum etiquette. Pick out the most appropriate Garage Forum and post there. Second, find the small magnifying glass icon at the top right of the page. This allows you to search ALL the posts for posts that may already help you. Third, Stovebolt.com has numerous Tech Tips that address many common problems such as bringing a dormant engine back to life. Do a bit of research before you post. Lastly, be sure to follow up on your posts to let us know what has worked and what has not. By doing that you will be helping others. Neat project you have there. Lots of fun times ahead.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
sorryyy justhorsenaround in the previous welcome forum eveyone told me to post in the correct forum for the correct advice? So sorry for the bad forum etiquette but your all telling me somthing different and I'm just looking for the best advice thanks
Whimpy, If I'm reading the block casting number correctly - 3850817 - that block was used in both 230 and 250 engines, as 3B suggested. The 250 was introduced in '66 with the same bore dimension as the 230, but longer stroke. The date/ date code may help you ID which engine you have, specifically, if it is original to the truck.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Put 3-4 ounces of KROIL into all the cylinders, then wait about a week, pull the oil pan drain plug and catch what comes out. Pour it back through again. Rock the engine back and forth a little at a time and keep it soaking. Don't get impatient and try to pull the truck- - - -you could bend some connecting rods.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Okay soubds good I've been using kroil im I also used deisel and atf the first tim but sounds good I will not pull it haha I may keep draining snd so forth get some more mystery oil and kriol , so 4 cylinders are draining through when I completely fill them up its just the 2 cylindees that are filling up with fluid and not seating through the rings
Is that strap device on the harmonic balancer? If so, you may not want to turn the engine in that manner. You may permanently damage it. It is comprised of two pieces, inner and outer, which are separated by rubber. Turning the outer ring can tear the rubber. A pry bar on the teeth of the flywheel would be a better plan. I just did this yesterday. The bellhousing is what you use as the fulcrum for the pry bar. works like a champ.
Last edited by 52Carl; 09/16/20201:02 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I second the advice above. Mine sat for 50 years so I put tranny fluid in the cylinders and let it sit a couple months while I worked on other stuff. Used a small pry bar between the bell housing and flywheel teeth . Moved it a little bit, added more tranny fluid, let it sit a few more days then moved it back and forth a little more each time. Engine runs perfectly now so there is hope for you. Just don't force it-something's bound to break.
Usually, the cylinders that get heavily rusted are the ones that have sat for years with one or both valves open. The humidity in the air that cycles in and out due to temperature changes rusts the exposed cylinder walls above the piston. What you're doing by rocking the engine back and forth is slowly dislodging the rust in several inches of cylinder walls. It's a slow process! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Should I be worried about bending a rod if the valves are seized open also ? I've seen you.can possibly take the head off and hit the valve rockers with a rubber mallet to make sure they aren't seized is this somthing I should be doing before prying on the fly wheel ?
I don't believe the 230/250 engines are "interference" engines, where the valves and pistons can get together even if a valve stays open at the wrong time. Yes, you can take the valve cover off (not the "head") and soak the valve stems with penetrating oil, then use a pry bar to work the valves up and down. There's even a special tool made to compress the valve springs on those stud-mounted rocker arms, but I've always made my own tool by welding a flat washer onto a discarded rocker arm and using a long tapered punch as a lever. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
