The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Clutch replacement for a greenhorn

I am in the process of rebuilding the 216 for my 53 3100 and am about to sieze the opportunity to refresh the clutch before reinstalling the engine. The truck has gone about 65,000 miles and it has not had any clutch problems. The dissassembled unit is lying around my shop now, it clearly is a 10 3/4 clutch, which seems unusual according to the sources. I am hoping to avoid the worst mistakes, but being a cheapskate (and considering the costs of shipping to Sweden) I am hoping to replace only the plate, throwout bearing and pilot bushing. Emphatic voices on these pages recommend a complete clutch kit, and I am hesitant to ignore that advice. But I do dumb things all the time and sometimes it turns out ok.
The available kits do not always describe a 10 3/4 plate, rather 11 inch. Also that the 11 inch variety was available only from 1954, which makes me suspect that the kit is not suitable for my flywheel. There also seem to be different varieties of throwout bearings.

I would appreciate advice to avoid once again buying expensive parts that will not fit.

Karl

The problem with replacing only the clutch disc is the fact that the surfaces of both the flywheel and the pressure plate have probably become highly polished, or possibly even glazed from years of slipping a little every time you get into motion from a standing stop, or slip the clutch a little while backing up. The new disc will have a difficult time getting a good grip on those slick surfaces. Part of the rebuilding process on a pressure plate is regrinding the friction surface to the correct finish, one that allows the disc to grab properly. For best results, the flywheel also needs to be removed and reground. Replacing just the disc is sort of a "shade tree" fix- - - -better than nothing, but it will seldom give a really good or long-lasting improvement in performance.
Jerry

The flywheel and the pressure plate have been lying in the shop for two years. They now have a fine layer of rust on the surface but to my untrained eye look to be in good condition, about like a brake disc looks when all is healthy.
I had no complaints about the clutch when I removed the engine. My original intention was to reinstall the whole shebang with the original parts after the engine was rebuilt. Of course much of my work on the truck is "shade tree" repair, I am an amateur mechanic, and this truck is not being "restored" anytime soon.
If I were to order a complete clutch kit, I have yet to find such a kit for a 10 3/4 disc. So I can't even price out the parts until I find a proper kit for a 53 truck with the heavy duty clutch.
I am raising these questions because I suspect that I ought to buy a kit...

Karl

One procedure I've done on occasion is to work over the friction surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate with a dual action oscillating air sander and some 80 grit sandpaper, just enough to break the glaze on the mating surfaces and leave a pretty uniform swirl pattern. It won't correct any hard spots or uneven wear, but it beats assembling things with a too-slippery surface for the new disc to grab.
Jerry

Thanks, Jerry, I could do that.
Can someone inform me what sorts of clutches were available i 1953? What are the differences between the later 11 inch clutches and the 10 3/4 found in my 53?

What is the Engine Serial Number that is pressed/stamped into the block in the ledge at the rear of the distributor?

1953 USA Chevrolet truck engines clutch sizes

1953 USA Chevrolet car engines clutch sizes.

It is bedtime in Sweden, I'll look tomorrow. But I have a 9 bolt flywheel.

The engine serial number is BLCC 909807. I haven't found the guide for these numbers.
Karl

What does R.P.O. mean on the vehicle id pages of the technical bullitin?

BLCC is the code for a 1953 216 (out of a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck 3600/3800) ton truck)

Look on page 3.
1953 is a "complicated" year - a transition year for 235s.

Your engine is a 216 - the clutch size is shown at the link above: 10 3/4" clutch disc (RPO).

As is always the case with these old trucks: the flywheel/clutch-assembly might have been changed over the years.

RPO = Regular Production Option

Tim, I've looked at that page a few times. It isn't so crystal clear. But the asterisk seems to indicate that the first "B" means RPO on the 3100 series. So the code would mean a 216 from a 3100 RPO. The third letter "C" refers to the type, the text for which disappears on the copy, so what "type" 216? But the last C means made in Flint. But there are a lot of questions still, the setup of the page would make it look like there should be four letters preceeded by an "A" or a "B". And why do they need 6 letters to indicate Flint and at least as many for Tonawanda?

But none of these questions really helps me order a clutch kit, when the only kits in the cataolgue are the 9 inch clutch and the later 11 inch ditto. But there are clutch disc 10 3/4, so maybe I am set to go. I hope the throwout bearing is the same for all models.
Karl

Get the 11 inch clutch. If you order a clutch kit the throw out bearing is included.

When I got my '52 235 engine it had a 10 3/4" clutch ..... I ordered the parts from link below. I called them and they got me everything I needed.

https://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=MEE257&i=19880|||||

Yes, I went with the same, the parts are on the way. He's a good man, Jimmy Carter!