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Holley is making a Sniper EFI in a 1 barrel configuration now, it will be available mid September. It's made to replace the Autolite 1100 carb used on many Blue Oval inline 6 cars and trucks.

Does anyone have an idea if this could be a viable option for our brand?

Steve

Why not? Adapter for the base and fabricate the throttle linkage.🛠

Holley Sniper EFI 1 Barrel

Impressive. Sound like it is only rated up to 200 CID and 175 HP.

* Designed with a mounting flange to fit the intake manifolds that originally had Autolite 1100 carburetors installed.

* Applications include 1963 — 1967 Inline 6 Cylinder Ford engines, from 144ci to 300ci.

*Such engines were commonly found in Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, and various Ford trucks.

*Throttle body mounted ECU — no extra boxes to mount

* Supports up to 175 HP with One 100lb/hr Injector

"only rated up to 200 CID and 175 HP"?

Only? (oops - we are in The HiPo Shop)

"Does anyone have an idea if this could be a viable option for our brand?"
What do you want to accomplish?

if It didn’t require a 12v conversion first....

Has anyone here done one of efi on a gmc or chevy 6 ?
I am building a 302 and have been thinking about trying one

Wouldn't a 1-barrel General Motors TBI system be another option? The computer, sensors, and wiring harness aren't all that difficult to adapt, and there should be plenty of donor vehicles available at virtually giveaway prices.
Jerry

This is what I've been considering for my '61 pickup:

Holley Sniper EFI 2GC Small Bore Fuel Injection Systems 550-864K

It would require an adapter plate.

-Kevin

What carburetor woes? I replaced the TBI on my daily driver with a carb and haven't touched it for 20 years. Still starts and runs perfectly - no bog, no hesitation, no cold start difficulty, etc. I changed my plugs the other day; they were still a nice light brown color. And if my carb ever does need tuning, all it takes is a screwdriver instead of some computerized tuning module bouncing around in the glovebox and getting lost. No TPS, no O2 sensor, no external wiring, no high-pressure lines required. Maybe someday my carb will need a rebuild...that should take almost until lunchtime. But I can afford lots of lunches with the $1000 I saved over an aftermarket EFI system.

Lots of misconceptions out there. Silly kids today are as mystified by carbs as oldsters are by EFI.

I'm in the process of installing a Sniper 2300 on my latest project. I have to say that it could not be any easier. The only major issue on retrofits is the fuel system. The Sniper requires ~60 psi fuel pressure. All the rest is plug n play. I'm anxious to see the "self learning" feature.

SimS

Perhaps you could start a project thread, and share the highlights of your experience. I may put FI on my pickup first, and if the results warrant, install another system on my '60 Impala.

-Kevin

Does anyone know if an adapter exist that will pair the Holley Sniper EFI Autolite 1100 to a 235 intake?

With a 1.43 bore on the efi it should be close to bolt on

If its anything like the holley terminator software you will love it once you understand it. The self learn is almost to easy to be true. I will be installing one shortly on a 50 chevy pickup thats owned by a 70yr old guy thats gonna be all smiles everytime he hits the key and the go pedal haha.

@Shaky61;

My project is non-Stovebolt. Although it is on a Toyota 2F which is almost a clone of the GM inline 6.

SimS

Need some help interpreting Holleys, Throttle Body Base Template and if the TB would bolt on to my 1958, 3100, 235 intake manifold. The TB base has stud holes that are on 2.75” centers where it appears the intake manifold, carb hold down studs are on 3” centers. If I’m interpreting the drawing correctly, the TB base is machined for 7/16” hold down studs, where the intake manifold uses 3/8” studs.

With a little careful filing, could the TB base stud holes be elongated enough to accept the intake manifold studs and keep the integrity of the TB base intact?

Well, I'm updating my experience with the Holley Sniper installation. My project is a Toyota Land Cruiser (LC) with the venerable 2F straight six. That engine is almost a clone of the GM 235. I used the Sniper 2300 unit as it best matched up with the Toyota 2 barrel manifold. You only need few wires to hook up. 12+, switched 12+, coil/ignition signal, coolant temp and O2 sensor. All of the other EFI sensors are built into the unit, MAF, MAP, TPS, etc. The ECU is also integral to the Sniper assembly.The unit comes with fuel pump relay and a small lcd screen for setup/readouts, logging and software updates. The main issue is supplying high pressure fuel to the unit. The Sniper has an internal fuel pressure regulator (58.5 psi) so it needs ~60 psi. The next fuel system issue is a fuel tank return line. I was lucky in that the LC carburetor fuel system had a fuel return line installed from the factory.

I solved the high pressure fuel supply issue by assembling a DIY fuel surge tank. I used a 1.5 liter ebay surge tank and installed a Bosch 044 fuel pump. The LC mechanical pump supplies the surge tank and the Bosch 044 sends 60 psi fuel to the Sniper. The return line from the Sniper goes back to the surge tank and any overflow or excess returns to the fuel tank through the factory return line from the surge tank.

The Sniper coolant temperature sensor is a regular 3/8 NPT unit so that is not a problem.

You will need an O2 sensor. The Sniper comes with a clamp on O2 bung but I chose to weld a standard steel bung to the exhaust pipe. The location/mounting instructions are included with the unit.

The Sniper can receive it's ignition signal from a variety of systems. The one I used is to connect the Sniper to the coil negative post. That is the most basic of their install scenarios. They have ones for HEI, MSD, etc.

I hooked all of the above and entered the engine info into the Sniper ECU through the handheld/LCD screen. The setup includes cubic inches, stock, mild, wild cam, number of cylinders ,idle RPM, etc. The first startup was flawless except for a small fuel leak on one of the AN lines that I forgot to tighten fully. Other than that it came to life and idled smoothly.

I am currently just driving the LC around at various speeds and loads just to assist the Sniper through it's self learning process. I can monitor and/or set the target air fuel ratio (AFR) for various conditions through the LCD. I have noticed that if I repeat various driving conditions, over time the performance and AFR start matching up with the targets that have been set. I am a complete nooby when it comes to EFI tuning so I'm slowly digging into the various settings, etc. There is a Holley Sniper forum that is a great resource and the ability to log and upload your data logs to Holley support techs is pretty cool.

Overall, I'm very happy with the unit and it has completely changed the performance of the LC.

SimS

A simpler method would be to remove the studs from the manifold, drill and tap it for about a 5/8" thread, and plug the holes. Then use the TB gasket as a template and install studs the proper diameter, at the correct spacing. It's the same procedure that works well when installing 216-size carburetors on dual carb manifolds set up for 235 bolt pattern carbs. That way the engine is only slightly over-carbureted.
Jerry

Jerry,

I’m considering installing the Holley Sniper EFI Autolite 1100, on my 1958, 235 where as SimS installed the Sniper 2300.

With regard to the intake manifold studs, I did purchase Dorman, double ended studs, P/N 675-097 which are 3/8”-16 on one end and 5/16”-24 on the other. To recap, the intake manifold studs are on 3” centers and the TB base is machined for 7/16” studs on 2.75” centers. My thought is that the smaller diameter 5/16” stud will mate with the TB base. Does this sound plausible to you? Haven’t started the project yet, looking for something to do this winter.

SimS, can you give more detail on the improved performance of your LC? I’m looking for better fuel mileage.

With only 1/32" difference in the radius of the 5/16" stud compared to the 3/8", probably not. Move the studs inboard to the right spacing so you don't create a vacuum leak or run the risk of breaking the throttle body.
Jerry

Jerry,

Thanks for the guidance.

I’m not understanding the procedure to modify the manifold. What are the holes plugged with?

A simpler method would be to remove the studs from the manifold, drill and tap it for about a 5/8" thread, and plug the holes. Then use the TB gasket as a template and install studs the proper diameter, at the correct spacing.
Jerry[/quote]

My goal for using the double ended studs is to be able to return the manifold to the stock setup if the Sniper didn’t work out.

The reason for using a big bolt to plug the existing holes is so the threaded holes don't overlap. The original stud hole is drilled oversize and tapped for a 5/8" diameter bolt. Then a bolt is threaded in, cut off flush, and a stud hole is drilled and tapped in each plug at a closer spacing. I used to use a similar procedure when moving the rocker arm studs away from the valve stems to get the proper geometry for small block Chevy racing cylinder heads when changing to different-ratio rockers. If you're planning to go back to the original stud spacing at some time, having the manifold plugged with a large-diameter bolt would also be a good idea since the plug could be removed and another one installed, threaded on center again for the wider stud spacing.
Jerry

Thank you!

I have the FI Tech 2300 up and running on my 235. I used a Clifford intake an a homemade adapter. I installed a fuel cell and FITech fuel system. I’m using pertronix ignition in the stick distributor and it is not controlled by the EFI. My only problem so far is getting the exhaust sealed up so the O2 sensor is happy. The flat gaskets for the fentons and crappy exhaust fab is driving me nuts. I plan on switching to donut gaskets soon. I used a lokar throttle cable and a homemade mount with the original bell crank.

How is the perrformance- - - - -gas mileage, etc.? Got any dyno pull figures or 4-gas exhaust analyzer numbers?
Jerry

I haven’t had the truck as a whole running long enough yet for any real world numbers. I have to get the exhaust fixed and I’ve got a lifter stuck holding the a valve open to deal with. I’ve lugged it down to 800 rpm on several corners and it pulls through them really well. Overall, I would do it again for sure. I despise carburetors. 20 degrees out and it fires right up and takes right off!

Good luck- - - - - -you're probably going to need it!
Jerry

I have installed the Holley Sniper 2300 on a Toyota 2F (basically a clone of a mid fifties Stovebolt). I'm really happy with the installation. Driveability is a 100% improvement over the weird Aisin two barrel. I don't expect much improvement in gas mileage, if any. Can't fight physics, it still takes the same amount of BTUs to move two tons of stuff down the road. I just like the "get in it and turn the key and go" aspect of the whole deal.

SimS

I have really wanted to do a dual 2300 EFI. I have run dual carbs on my cars and trucks for a couple of decades and really dont want to give the look up. The problem is that the Holly 2300 versions cant talk to one another and at the moment, there is no real easy way to make one throttle body a mule for the other. I will have to contact FiTech and see what they think. A friend of mine installed a dual 4 bbl FiTech on a tunnel Ram and the difference in starting and running is remarkable.

I still like carbs, guess I'm old. I'm not smart enough for all the EFI stuff so I just depend on physics. Then there's the whole carbs make more power and chicks dig it thing. I did come around on throwing the distributor away and go direct fire Electromotive EMS so there may be hope for me.