I like a nicely painted truck as much as anyone. However, some of the rusty and weathered trucks look great too. My 1963 C10 definitely qualifies as a “patina truck“. Rather than spend thousands of dollars on a total restoration, I decided to keep the patina and make sure everything else was mechanically sound, especially the drivetrain. I’m sharing some pictures of what has become a very popular and easy way to improve and preserve the look of a patina truck. I mixed 4 parts boiled linseed oil to 1 part odorless mineral spirits. I had previously used car wax on the panels (some panels only have rust). So before applying the linseed oil mixture with a rag, I wiped down the truck with wax remover.
Wipe the BLO on with a rag and wait 15 minutes. Go back over it with a dry towel. Just like you would if you were washing the truck. It gives a satin sheen to the rusty areas and brightens the painted areas a little. Just thought I’d share.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
There's a popular gunstock finish known as "Lin-Speed" that's almost that exact proportion of BLO and Mineral Spirits. Linseed oil oxidizes and hardens into a durable finish on wood- - - -don't know how it will react to paint, metal, and rust. Be sure to store any leftover linseed oil in an airtight container with NO air space inside. I store my gunstock finishing oil in a tightly capped glass Mason jar, and add marbles to the container as I use the oil to keep the surface of the remaining oil level with the top of the jar.
Precaution #2- - - -soak any rags you use during the job in water, and dispose of them in an airtight zip-lock bag. Linseed oil and open air storage of oily rags can result in oxidation of the oil, heat buildup, and spontaneous combustion. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Looks great , I like the finish . I also used 4 parts linseed oil to one part Thompsons water seal ( for wood decks ) on wooden decks and trim on boats over the years and it wore really well considering the harsh life it had , and was easier to touch up than varnish . Might work well on truck beds .
What great info. the marbles is nothing more than brilliant. Can't wait to try out mix on a old 51 GMC coming in from Colorado. I have always used BLO on old tools and ax, hammers etc.,etc. Dries hard. Doc.
Currently making 1954 3100 better than new and Genetics
Follow up. We all get a bit excited over nothing sometimes. So I’m a little excited. Well, I have good news! The boiled linseed oil I applied 2 weeks ago seems to keep that satin sheen . . . . . and it seems to be very water repellent too. After all, oil and water don’t mix very well, do they? I had my truck out in the rain tonight. Didn’t intend to let it get wet, but it was a gulley washer downpour. See pics. The water beads up just like a brand new wax job.
I'd like to the BLO on my old 51 and keep as much of the original paint/patina as I can. The hood/roof is near bare metal so it would be nice to blend in hear and there, but I probably won't spend the $$.
Anyway, what was your sanding grit/prep technique? Mine has a pretty course scale on it due to sitting for 30-40 years outside.
Please, if you must coat your oxidized paint and rust, use a flat clear coat. Anything else doesn’t look right. People ask me all the time what I do to protect my “patina”. I tell them that I just throw a car cover over it and drive it. I know this is a little off topic, but here it is.
I invest my money in precious metals, mostly rust!
Chrispy, for my 52 that sat out for years I used a lot of time and elbow grease with rubbing compound to "sand" it. Even took the rusty hood to a beautiful patina finish instead. Why not just use Auto wax? That's what I'm doing, why use BLO instead?