The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Throttle (bell crank?) linkage

I am swapping a used engine into my 53 chevy 3100 PU. Old engine is a 292 from the 60``s New engine I`m installing is a 1951 according to casting numbers. As the pictures show; the post which holds the linkage from the accelerator pedal is located at different positions on the block. It appears that if I use the location on the replacement engine the exhaust manifold will be in the way not to mention that different length rods etc would be necessary. Has anyone encountered this issueand found a work around? Am I missing something obvious? I figured I could fabricate an extension with a dummy post in the correct position as necessary. Thanks for any help!

The forward pivot position, as on the blue engine is correct. It will clear the manifold if the correct rods are used.

My advice is to attach bell crank to the pivot point of the "new" motor and copy what was done for that motor. Rod is available in every hardware store and Home Depot. The rod is easy to bend and route to carb. Mock it all up and see what it takes.

Ok will use the front peg and build rod as necessary .I assume the linkage arm that mounts on the pivot is the same on both motors? The blue motor is going into the truck It`s the 51. The old grey is going to get a rebuild at some point

Do me a favor: Tell me what year and cu in is the grey motor. What year and cu in is the blue motor.

Your comment is confusing to me, as follows:

"I am swapping a used engine into my 53 chevy 3100 PU. Old engine is a 292 from the 60``s New engine I`m installing is a 1951 according to casting numbers."

The best I can offer on the 1956 and later 235s is this: Please look at the image below with two holes. One of these travels straight through to a water jacket. It must have a screw in it (sealed with gasket sealer) and over time that screw can and will rust given enough time if you don't use anti-freeze or some rust inhibitor). The other hole doesn't travel through but dead ends. Now please look at the other image. In that image are some little colored arrows. The black arrow is the rod connecting to your gas pedal. It connects to the pivot piece as shown with a small cotter pin and the eye of that cotter pin holds a small spring which goes back to the screw in the hole which dead ends. The yellow arrow points to the rod which connects the pivoting piece to the carburetor throttle point and on that rod there is a piece of metal with a hole in it. Another spring connects to this hole and originally went down and connected to a piece which was held in place by one of the oil pan bolts. In my life I have only seen 1 of these pieces intact, so just hook it over the lip edge of your pan and you'll be ok. I'm assuming your little piece is gone like the the other 99% of them. The 2 green arrows show the 2 springs...one of which is just barely visible. And there is another image showing that spring ... but just barely. If you strain your eyes you may be able to see where it connects to the rod (and as I said it will drop down and hook on the lip edge of the oil pan). Good luck.

Best I can tell the grey motor is a 1971 292 CID
The blue motor is a 1951 235 CID

OK thank you very much but I am confused. The standard motor for a pick up in 1951 was 216. 235 was available in bigger trucks. Just be sure while you are going backwards in time that you understand what motor you are putting in and if it is a low pressure. Learn the pros and cons of low pressure and babbitt bearings. It could be easier, and a lot better, for a lot of reasons, including the linkage, to keep the same type motor. You may run into more headaches.
I am confused because I don't know these 6 cylinder motors, but to me it seems like they are almost the opposite of what you said.....I just feel something is wrong here. Maybe a wrong decision you are making or misidentified motors. The blue looks like it is missing a bunch of holes/bosses on the left side????????

Part of the confusion is that the “292” engine is not one, it is actually a 235.

Cast and stamped numbers on each motor would clear up year and cu in. Swami, be careful of what you are doing. Step back and let the info flow in by giving us more info. If all you need, or want, is linkage advice, you have it. Whenever you think or were told or heard about the motors has got you all screwed up. The experts are right here on Stovebolt. A motor is a big deal. Slapping in something you don't even know what it is can be real bad. How could you even get parts? How do you know it is compatible with the rest of the drive train, mounts, fits?

Ok here are the numbers on blue engine .What do I have?

Numbers on the grey engine. What is this motor please. I had looked these numbers up at Dave`s Technical Network webpage. Thanks all...

Blue is 1951 passenger car 235
Grey is 1961 truck 235

I appreciate the help getting the engines correctly identified. We will see how the 1951 motor works out. It was a bit of a gamble buying it used, the fellow I bought it from did say it had an automatic tranny on it and apparently had been recently rebuilt. The rocker arm area on the head were very clean and the block and head surfaces showed only very light rust so I`m hoping it`s a good runner. I did confirm it has hydraulic lifters after removing the push rod cover and pulling a push rod and lifter. If not or when time allows I will tear the 61 motor down and rebuild,as I am rapidly learning how these engines work!

Yes, it's an automatic car motor. Built Jan 10. Someone needs to tell me why the bell crank pivot points are in different positions so I can go back to sleep.

The bell crank on my '38 216 is in the same approximate location as the blue engine. I have no idea whey they are different.

OK so he has the 12 9/16 position. Why does this 1951 235 block not have the hole near the freeze plug? I realize that 235 was not offered in 3100 and that this is an "older" version. I have not found any other motors with the hole configuration on that blue motor and I've looked a long time on the web. The chart in the link does not address 1951 235.
The blue motor seems to be a low pressure motor with babbitt bearings? If true, I would not use it myself. I would use this opportunity to get a upgraded 235, 261.
But supposedly if the oil distribution has a cover over it, it is insert bearings, Yours had a cover.

Bart, the '51 low pressure 235 used with the Powerglide cars has Babbitt rod bearings unless it has been modified, and it uses 216-style oiling - dippers and spray - for those.

Can't answer your question on the bell crank position - it's the way they were with PG cars.

Doug

Thank you Doug. It's nice to learn from you guys.

Finished up the bell crank rod fabrication. Even though the pivot points differed by three inches the rod shape changed very little.

Blimey, that's a bit of all right.

I am surprised that you even have the correct spring connection on the pan.
Good job.

Looks like a heat-riser spring is next.

I just took one off a GMC yesterday, it was configured differently than yours. The rod coming from the foot feed went to the the bellcrank end that was positioned below the rotational axis, then the rod that went to the carb was hooked to the higher end of the bellcrank. Another option if problems arise.

Ed

Good Eye,Thanks Dave! I am a little embarrassed that I didn`t even know the heat riser spring existed! I then searched the forums and found out all kinds of good info. When I was disassembling the intake /exaust manifold I noticed the counter weight that controls the heat was frozen in place. I could not figure out how the weight moved to regulate the heat,but I figured it must somehow.... So I had worked some PB blaster on the shaft and got it freed up and eventually rotating smoothly with hand pressure. Next I found that most of the entire heat passage on the intake was clogged with carbon. I carefully burned and scraped out the muck and got the passages cleared. At the same time I had to braze a crack in the intake that looked compromising. After reassembling the intakes and mounting the carb and linkages everything seems in order ( once i get the spring). I traded for this truck over 12 years ago and was driving it periodically with the non functioning heat riser. This is my first time around working on the engine although I have driven the truck for a number of years. I`m sure the clogged heat riser and non functioning counter weight had something to do with finicky starting in the cold weather. The truck did seem to run ok but did cough out some pretty ugly black smoke when cold. Do you think the carburetor will need to be readjusted once everything is reassembled and the engine is back in the truck?

The heat to the carb on startup prevents carb. Ice, not good on aircraft but no big deal on cars., just pull over. It is best to have it functionally properly in high humidity areas(rust belt) to prevent the problem.

Ed

The oil distributor is plainly seen in some of the photos confirming it's a low-pressure motor.

Good luck with your project!