The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 1957 Chevy pickup steering box relocation

I have a 1957 pickup with a 348 "W" engine. I installed the CPP power steering kit with the IDIDIT column. Everything is fine except for the anticipated header to steering box clearance. I've tried different header types and modifications, but the stock one seems to have the best chance of success. So far I have researched two potential remediations:
1. Relocate the steering box
2. Move the engine to the passenger side
Unfortunately I can't find a "how to" anywhere. I was wondering if someone may have run across any how to articles on those subjects, and could direct me there. Also any suggestions would be welcomed, thanks.
don

Is the box on the inside or outside of frame? CPP part numbers? Pics of your situation? Have you tried block hugger? This shorty type block hugger may allow you to create adjoining pipes that clear.
Sometimes folks swap sides with the stock manifolds and it helps. Not sure about 348.
I put a BBC in a 56 GMC and used a saginaw box on the outside of frame.

1. the box is inside of the frame
2. I've tried the Sanderson and Patriot block huggers - neither works
3. Basically the #7 & 5 cylinder ports interfere with the power steering box

So was your box originally inside the frame? If so, what did you have to do? I think if I could just drop the steering box an inch or two, this may work. But I'm not sure what that would do to the drag link to steering geometry.
Thanks for your reply,
don

The 55-59 original boxes, on the end of the column, are on the inside. As was yours. I fabbed my own Saginaw mounting plates, sort of copied some of the available KITS and as seen on DIY internet. You then couple it to the column using Ujoints and shafts from Borgenson or equivalent.
I can not comment on moving your box to a different location than is in the instructions.
Do any of the exhaust manifolds/headers look like they would otherwise fit if box was outside of frame? That would be my choice, I would not move the motor off center.
I don't use CPP very often, Their website is cumbersome. Filled with old truck magazine articles/how-to's and hard to find products. I did just now used their search function to find the articles regarding 55-59 power steering. Click Part number 4759PSK. you put that number in the search and it still does not take you to the BUY Page! What a mess of a website. I avoid them like the plague.

On the Classic site, scroll down and read it all. The pitman and ujoint are extra. This is the vendor I use 99%.

You still did not provide the CPP part number you are using or any pix.

bartamos:
Thanks great information! if I could mount the steering box outside the frame everything should fit. I'm not at my main computer, but I will post pictures of my install and part numbers of my kit tomorrow. Thanks a again, I owe you.
don

You don't owe me anything. I learn by helping. Lots of higher knowledge than me on here. I've done a lot of 55.2-59 and a few 60-66. Still learning about AD/pre 55.2.
Here is a pic of what I did but I was also putting modern 4x4 under. Original frame.

Donsz,
Just a thought here, could you raise the motor mounts? It might give you the clearance you need, nothing drastic just an inch or so. My truck was not originally a V8, so I made the side mount motor mounts. Like Bartomos I'm using Saginaw box outside the frame, the CPP steering gear was not available when I fabed my together.

This is what I purchased:
- Classic Performance CPP5559PSK-AC - Classic Performance Power Steering Conversion Kits
- didit 1120652020 - ididit Retrofit Floor Shift Steering Columns
- didit 3100035785 - ididit Steering Column Harness Adapter Kits

Thanks for the picture, it really helps, my 1957 is a NAPCO truck. Considering all the pain I've gone through maybe the Saginaw box located outboard would be a better solution, it looks clean. I'll have to look into raising the motor mounts, mine are side motor mounts using the u-tube mounting. Attached is a graphic of the clearance issues: the worst are the proximity of the steering box itself and the height of the hose connections (not connected in the graphic). I do like the ididit column, I think it looks good and has modern turn signals, tilt, hazard signal, and well engineered horn. Ignore the red circle, that is a control for split shifting the 3 speed OD trans and misc. other controls

This is great, I'm feeling like is a solvable issue now, thanks
don

I have to say, two days ago I could find nothing for my situation. Following your leads I am overwhelmed with pertinent info. In fact I may have found an outboard install kit that uses my existing box.
don

Good deal. I would say that an inside box is not the way to go. Keep up the good work. Just be sure not to weld or drill until all is mocked up. In my situation with adding 4x4, the front axle located the motor. I.E. Axle locates front drive shaft, which locates transfer case which locates motor. Rear drive shaft length was modified to fit. Is your part number actually xxxxxxx-OC ?

No it is CPP5559PSK-AC, took it right off the sales order. That is the kit for an aftermarket column. The CPP5559PSK-OC kit is for a stock column. But with a little modification to the stock column, the CPP5559PSK-AC kit will work also.
don

bartamos:
Do these look to be the same thing (I couldn't find a view where they are both in the same orientation.
don

Pretty close. Saginaw looking, The castings may be a little different.

What are you planning? I think I see what you are thinking. The 400 series box I think you have could mount on the outside.

But you are now looking at Saginaw boxes?

Yes, I thinking that the that 400 series box replicates the Saginaw box (but not certain). For what I see of your work, the outside box seems like the best way to go. The only thing is that the Saginaw boxes are about $150 more than the CPP (without core). But having labored through a poor solution, I don't find the extra dollars to be inhibiting. I just want to do something that I know works, and based on your experience and feedback, I'm probably going with the Saginaw approach. I just have not had a chance to look at the truck to see if lowering the CPP 500 series box I have currently installed could even be an option. I'm suffering from a back problem that comes and goes periodically. I got it lifting weights (2 years ago) and shredded a disc and pinched a nerve. That year I had to drop out of the world benchpress championships in Finland because of that, bummer because it would have a great vacation too. This year the championships were cancelled again, this time in Russia. I will keep you posted as what I will do, but I'm really leaning to your suggestion (outboard - Saginaw), it seems like the best engineered approach.
don

I would check prices on Rock Auto or Drive Train, reman boxes start at about $130.00 plus core. New are about $350.00.

Thanks Craig, I will do that. any experience with re-manufactured parts from Rock Auto/Drive Train?
don

I agree, the reman are $130-$150. They should be OK. It may be available locally and with lifetime warranty. Easier to take back if local. Rockauto is a drop shipper and they may have you deal with the supplier with problems. On reman it's all about the length of the warranty. Very sorry about you back. Hope it gets better with time. Be careful. The Saginaw I used, was used, and was OK. Some folks feel more comfortable doing all that work using a new box. Up to you.
That 348 is worth a lot of money, mostly for nostalgia. Very cool looking motor. Very rare now.

The Saginaw boxes we are talking about are getting rare as far as finding a core. So.......... many companies only rebuild with your core. They don't even have cores to charge you for. The old standby company for reman products is Cardone.

The box I'm fitting up is from an 86 C10, the truck had 61K on the odometer($65.00 at the U Pull It), there are some low mileage units around. My truck is 2 wheel drive, the mounting is basically the same, the drag link and pitman arm are similar. I did make a backing plate from 3/16" steel to go inside the frame rail to add a little more strength.

I would love to see some pics of your engine, I have always wanted a 348 or 409 "W".

Some pictures of the engine: $500 lump when I bought it (still was a good deal). First I had tr-power, then i went to a 4 bbl. The 4 bbl. is way more reliable and seems to run much better. But I do know some people that have their tri-powers dialed in and really love them. The engine is a bit warmed over with a cam, slight bore, HEI, etc.
don

Ain't she PURDY!!! I realize the 4 Brl is probably more efficient but the Tri Power really completes the look, very sweet.

Ya them "W" engine are neat looking with the tri power, or dual quad set up.

I think will go with:
- Conversion kit: https://www.classicparts.com/1947-59-Power-Steering-Conversion-Kit/productinfo/76-977/#
- Gearbox: https://www.brotherstrucks.com/68-7...UICK-RATIO-REBUILT-OE/productinfo/5963Q/

Once installed I'll figure out the u-joints and steering shaft. If you have a minute, what do you think?
don

Sounds like that is a good plan, The quick ratio is a bit of a sales pitch.
68-76 Boxes are listed at between 3.3 to 4 turns. Some are 3-3.25. They used the 4 as a reference to stock. No big deal.
1977 and up are listed at 3.4 turns

Notice Brothers says "Rebuilt OE". Theirs is just a standard rebuilt box. Thisis the price I see now? No mention of "quick" ratio.

bartamos: I used your graphic at the 348 - 409 forum, 348/409 engine section. Hope you don't mind, I thought is was a very good example. Over there, there are some people with 348/409 pickups, and power steering/clearances is a big issue. I think you may have helped more people than you think.
don

If you mean my picture, make sure they know it's a "shop made" bracket by me and there are kits like you are getting that are cleaner. Also forgot to mention that on the inside of the frame, I added a stiffener. A piece of channel to stiffen the frame. Some frames are known to crack over time due to the torque of the box and steering parts. They actually sell a stiffener for that purpose.

Classic Parts in MO used to offer Stovebolt members a discount. It can't hurt to ask.

John

Bartomos, How thick was the steel plate that you used in the photo?

Who is Bartomos?
It was years ago and that truck is long gone. I kind of used some scrap I had. If you zoom the pic you will see about a 1/8 thick angle on top of the frame. It has cutouts to clear the existing frame/crossmember rivets and may have a few bolts thru the top frame flange. Then I welded an outside of frame piece, to that angle at the top. That piece looks like 1/4. It had angles on each end, so I left them for strength. You can see I cut that 1/4 piece to clear the round part of box housing, which sticks out farther than the mounting pads of the box. I think the two piece welded bracket bolts to the frame using the box mount bolts straight thru and probably holds the inner stiffener/backer also. I may have done all that to eliminate welding on the frame. It's probably overkill, compared to the kit. I didn't have a kit to look at, at the time. I knew that there was a tendency for a cracked frame and that welding on a frame should be avoided if possible.

Thanks for all the input regarding my power steering upgrade. As a reminder: the truck is a 1957 Chevy 3600 NAPCO (1/2 ton NAPCO suspension). The engine is a Chevy 348, and this was the major problem; no space for the power steering box at the exhaust manifold. Special thanks to Bartamos for his guidance.

The power steering is installed and works fine (it is wonderful to have easy steering and a reduced turning circle). I went with Bartamos's approach; a 1968 Saginaw steering box located outside the frame rail. Some tidbits, in no particular order for this install:
1. I used an IDIDIT steering column
2. Saginaw power steering pump (chrome so the vehicle can go faster)
3. A collapsible steering shaft; makes it much easier to install and re-install when making adjustments (you don't have to loosen the column each time)
4. The shocks need to be reversed: so the lower shock mounts from the right and left side need to be switched. I also had to modify the mounts a bit to obtain
clearances. Also the top mount on the springs need to be reversed so the shackles for the lower shock mounts can be installed.
5. The exhaust (stock manifold) at port 7 required minimal grinding for u-joint clearance. It is difficult to see in the attached picture, but there is plenty of room.
6. The install kit I used provided standoffs to mount the steering box to the frame. Instead, I did just a little grinding on the steering box to even both ends and used
half-inch plate stock on each end (about 4"x5" each). It is much more solid.
6.The e-brake pivot mechanism interfered with the shaft, so it need to be modified and re-welded (but not to the frame)

I thought this would never end because my first approach was a CPP sector box located inboard with modified headers. That did not work, I couldn't find anyway around it that appealed to me until Bartamos responded. I thank Bartamos for his input and pictures.
don

Congrat's on your success, and thanks for sharing the pics.

John

Don, you are very welcome. Kind words. Makes me feel good that, along with others, I could be a bit of help. You do good work.

hello I know this is a old post. Butt Classic parts .com has the conversion drop shipped from POL I just bought one for my 55 second series. Just so everyone would know. I bought 90 percent of my parts from classic parts great people, but they gave me the phone number to POL because I asked several questions about the conversion and they were not sure about the answers.

Mike

PS Part # PSCK4759SR