The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Starter parts help identifying

I'll keep it short and simple! I have a 1954 6400. The starter drive is going out. I ordered a new one and it didn't fit. Block casting says it is a 1958 235 passenger car block. The Starter is a Delco Remy model 1107634 serial # 6H6. 12 volt. How do I get the right starter drive this time? The gear is 9 tooth but smaller then the drive I bought. Also the shaft is a smaller diameter.

Well the easiest way would be to have your starter rebuilt by a local starter/generator facility.

If there is a label on the starter housing, is it painted black or red? If it's black, you need to order a starter drive for a 6 volt starter (1954 or earlier) Measure the diameter of the armature shaft- - - -if it's 5/8" you're running a 6 volt starter. 12V starters have a 1/2" diameter shaft.
Jerry

LOL, local starter / generator facility I'm in Montana, nothing is local anymore. The shaft measures .466". I guess that would be 1/2" with a lot of slop. Label is Red. Anyone have a part number? I don't like paying shipping on stuff that doesn't work.Were they all the same? Most of the parts counter guys around here only know what is on their computer.
Thanks

Can you tell us what parts you ordered. What part numbers and what vendor?
PLUS: I always back up and ask. What is it doing exactly, to make you say it is "going out"? Be specific and complete. Do you have an electric solenoid or a foot start? I assume if it is a car motor, it is an electric solenoid.

There have been times when someone thinks it's one thing but it is another.
Anyway:
RockAuto says Click

The whole thing is not much more Click

Confirm above info, I don't guaranty the part numbers.

foot starter, it freewheels instead of engaging about 25 percent of the time. and getting worse. I got it from Chevs of the 40's, part number 2873789 38+54. It is the only one they offer. I now know stuff isn't as original as I thought and am not assuming anymore. That word always leads to trouble. There is an guy in town that likes the old stuff. Next time I get to town I will see him and get it straighten out. I believe I need the 12 volt version, he will point me in the correct direction.

That drive is common to a bunch of GM starters- - - -chances are a local parts store will have it on the shelf. Another way to recognize a 12V starter is the shape of the drive lugs on the armature shaft. They're made in a slight spiral, while the 6V ones are straight. That turns the drive slightly as it engages the flywheel teeth and minimizes the possibility of teeth jamming together and failing to engage.
Jerry

Your starter serial # indicates it is a 1956.
The RockAuto link listed above is for a 1958. That drive ain't gonna work.
It's prolly the same wrong one you already have.

You can find your correct drive for that model # 1107634 starter drive.

They list 2 of them, ACDelco D2011 or Standard SDN8.

ya , it is engaging almost all the way before the the go button is even touched. Thanks for all your help everyone. I am still learning these old trucks, I am used to old bikes.

I get the feeling you want us to let you alone and you want to go see the guy in town who likes old stuff. I don't think you realize where you are. You are in a forum with hundreds of guys who know 1000 times more, and "like old stuff" more, than "the guy in town". It seemed you ask for help and were frustrated with ordering wrong parts. We fully understand that. This is why we are helping to get you the exact right part. We need a little time and info. We responded in 60 minutes and three on the same day. It seems you had the answer before the weekend was over. Not bad. If you want us to go away, we will. But I need to explain things to you for the sake of members who have tried to help and the worldwide reputation of Stovebolt. As a member, you should welcome that.

I don't know why you ordered the one from Chevs of the 40's. It is obviously wrong. I posted part numbers and stated they should be confirmed first because I looked up 1958 CAR, like you said, and that is the one given. We can only go by the info you give us. It is the same info you will give to the "guy in town". Only he will see the unit, we have not seen any pictures. Oilrag has dissected a little farther and did the confirmation. He used the starter serial number and gave you the drive unit according to that number. If you would give us the casting numbers/stamped numbers on the motor we can be sure even more. We won't go by what you say, we will go by the numbers. We do try to act like we trust the person, just to be polite, but we don't.


The following is not an explanation of what exactly is wrong, just food for thought, some logic for your consideration. I realize you didn't ask what is wrong, you asked for a part number. When someone already thinks they know what is wrong, we tread lightly on their opinion.
As you know, the foot start mechanism has linkage and about five pivots. It is possible that these joints/pivots are worn. It is also possible that the drive clutch is weak. If the pinion gear or the flywheel gears are not badly worn, and you report no engagement and no grinding, seems to eliminate gear tooth problems. The pinion gear is supposed to engage all the way or bump against the flywheel BEFORE the button is pushed. So if it is doing that, that is normal. You say it spins about 25% of the time without engaging. That is due to lack of spring pressure (the spring you see on the drive between clutch and "pulley"/sheave) or lack of pressure from the foot mechanism. A bad drive clutch wound slip after engagement. The symptom you describe is "spins without engagement, sometimes". That's all we know. The 75% engage and 25% not engage seems to point away from clutch or bad teeth or something broken. EXCEPT the spring mentioned or foot mechanism pivots/linkages are loose, worn or broken.(wallowed out). It could be that the button pushing lever is good and the pinion sliding levers have lost their leverage. Due to wear, not enough pressure left when your foot bottoms out.

KUDOS to Oilrag-Tom, Jerry and Glenn

You will get other info and opinions. If you want them.

With the starter on the bench,
move the lever front & back
and make sure the drive gear moves freely.

When the lever touches the button, the drive gear
should be fully extended, with about a 1/2" to go.

When the lever pushes in the button
the drive gear moves that additional 1/2" and is fully engaged.

If you loosen the 2 screws that hold the button to the starter,
sometimes you can get a slight adjustment.

Starter description & operation with pics too.

Foot starter with a cut-away view pic.

Tom, in my post above yours, I say the opposite about gear engage vs button. You seem to say after button is pushed, gear moves additional 1/2 inch. Maybe on the bench it does that.................. but that is not what the operation description says.

Also; you say "fully extended, with about a 1/2" to go". What has 1/2" to go? If something is fully extended, it has no more to go.

Sorry Bart, I didn't read your post.
I too old and don't have much time left.

I try to keep my posts brief, to the point,
with as little filler as possible.
I also try to not hijack threads.

Now to try to answer your questions;

Yes...I began that post with on the bench.
So yes, I'm happy you agree that... maybe on a bench it does.

Next, you refer to the operation description.
Sorry Bart, but I did not read what the operation description says.
So I can't help you there.

Next, I did not seem to say
.....I did say... after the button is pushed the gear moves ABOUT a 1/2" to go.
Yes.. It was on my bench.


Next, sorry Bart you don't understand that fully extended with about a 1/2" to go means.
But you answered your own question with when you posted
"You seem to say after button is pushed, gear moves additional 1/2 inch. Maybe on the bench it does that."

You also asked...
"If something is fully extended, it has no more to go".

If I may, I suggest you re-read that post, because it
clearly states that.....

"When the lever touches the button, the drive gear
should be fully extended, with about a 1/2" to go."

"When the lever pushes in the button
the drive gear moves that additional 1/2" and is fully engaged."

So to answer your question,
after the lever touches the button,
if you push a litter harder, the button starts to move.
If you keep pushing until the button stops,
that's about a 1/2".

I hope that clears it up.
If not "ask away".

Finally, If the "OP", original poster, doesn't
understand the post that you are challenging, questioning,
I hope he will ask,too.

I think I get what you are saying. Thank you.

Rex is back for another stroll downtown.

Didn't mean to upset anyone. Sorry I thought it was an easy question. The starter engagement works like it should on the bench. I'm old also get tired of typing. I thought I posted all the numbers I could find. Maybe not, will go back and read my thread. Not trying to offend or push anyone away. It's hot out and I am going to have a beer.

You have the part number that Tom gave you. You are good to go. Let us know what happens. Thanks

I don’t think you upset anyone. In order to provide as much correct information as possible we need all the information that can be applied to the question. I don’t type but I hunt and peck. I try to avoid lengthy posts if possible but I do provide year, model, engine size and numbers if available when asking questions. Some of our more anal members can come off a bit testy sometimes but rest assured they are genuinely trying to help. Don’t get discouraged.🛠

Ya, bartamos, I ordered that part today. Nobody in town could order it, even Napa said no not available. The one old guy in town is gone on a fishing trip so his daughter was running his parts store, same answer from her. If it isn't in there system the part don't exist. For those still wanting to know. The block numbers are 3738307, J297. The Head numbers are 370357, 913, 241, 570. I already posted the starter numbers, which in all honesty, are the only ones that should matter, as I need a part for the starter. Oh, and all of this is in a 2 ton 1954 Chevrolet/GMC ( has both emblems) .

Webster: "ANAL: often used in nontechnical contexts to describe someone as extremely or excessively neat, careful, or precise."
So as not to buy wrong parts.

👍🏻

OilRag thanks, got part today and installed. Works great.