The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Fixing the old truck

BUSY BOLTERS
Are you one?

Where is it?? The Shop Area

continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (Ponchogl, Napco Man), 505 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics126,777
Posts1,039,270
Members48,100
Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1370319 07/23/2020 1:56 PM
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 73
J
PA OUTLAW
PA OUTLAW
J Offline
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 73
Hello current working on 1954 3100 door glass removed vent window . Cleaned repainted have got new rubber seals and divison bar or called run post. the old divison bar was riveted too the back of vent window thru the divison bar felt were door glass rides any advise or tricks replacing these items THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 209
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 209
Most vendors have the rivets for these. They can be peened over easily by putting a piece of 3/16 bar stock in a vise to set the run channel over and act as an anvil, then use a roll pin punch if you have one or a starting punch and ball pein to set them. An extra pair of hands to steady everything is helpful. John

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
The Filling Station sells the whole set of rivets, including the pivot rivet along with a setting tool. That's the way to go rather than trying to jury rig something to peen them over.
Vent window rivet kit


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
Are you talking about the felt runner which the door glass rides in? I don't use anything to hold that in place. I just make sure that it is perfectly straight. New ones fit the groove pretty snug. Mine is a '52 and I don't recall any rivets there.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 209
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 209
Those are the type rivets I was referring to. The run channel can be glued in but I prefer to rivet. The vent frame does have to be securely riveted to the division bar. Pop rivets will sort of work, but they are usually a tad loose. The punch the Filling Station shows looks like it will hold up better than the ones that came with the kits I've used before.

Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6
R
New Guy
New Guy
R Offline
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6
52 Carl

I have replaced the side windows on a 51 with new glass. Seems to be the same thickness as the old glass. The old felt runners were really bad so I also replaced the felt runner in the division bar that runs the entire depth of the door. Have done this three times with different parts from different vendors. They all seem to be too small. Very tight on the glass. As you know getting the vent window assy in with the glass rolled down is a bear. I have gotten the vent window assy to mount properly with all the screws etc and the external rubber correct but I have not had any luck with any of the felts used. They all seem too tight. Very tight to roll up and down. Tried them on the bench and can hardly slide the glass thru them. Any tricks to this...

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,168
F
Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
F Offline
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,168
I used Classic Parts for my 51 (but 53 doors) and they fit very well. I used the rivet tool and it turned out.


1970 Chevrolet C10
Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny
Follow the build in the Project Journal
1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually
"Ole Red Girl"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures here
1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's
Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6
R
New Guy
New Guy
R Offline
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6
Not sure if we are talking about the same parts. What you describe is it on the vent window side of the division bar? this is the piece that uses rivets.
I am having problems with the 32 inch piece on the main window side of the division bar. I have tried 4 different suppliers with no good results. The glass is 1/4 (.250) thick and when the "felt strip" is installed it closes down some. The glass hardly fits at all and can not slide. It appears that the glass is too thick. If I measure the thickness of the glass in the vent window it is (.234) thick. A full 1/64 of an inch thinner (.015) then the main window. I am stuck.... Do I have the wrong glass?

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,988
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,988
Roy, you are correct. The old USA glass was 1/4. The Chinese glass is 6 MM. (.236 with tolerance). It's not the glass thickness that is your problem. I suspect the distance across the opening/across the run channels is "squeezing" the glass too tight. You have to be sure the channels are tightly "seated" against the division bar and the door on the other side. You have to study your installation of those run channels. Also those rivets everyone is talking about could maybe stick out on the side window side and cause the run channel to squeeze side window.

Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6
R
New Guy
New Guy
R Offline
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6
That's not the problem. If I have the vent assy on the bench (Not in the door) with the felt runner mounted in the division bar. I can not pass a piece of glass thru the felt track. Like the glass is too thick. The rivets are below flush so they are not the problem. It is like either the felt track is too narrow or the glass is too thick.
Has anybody used the tracks from STEELE ?

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,988
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,988
Roy, I hate to continue on this because you have Hijacked the thread. This is not kosher because it starts two different streams of conversation. Cross talk, confusion and distracts from the original posters question. Please start your own post.

Steele is top of the line. You may have ordered wrong or they delivered wrong. However I see something weird on their site. You can order the run channel in "bulk" and it is said to be for sides and top. A person could interpret that to mean both sides and top. Which wold include division bar? It says order the 6' if using without vent window, Don't know what that means. Anyway it is .625 wide.

Their actual division bar run channel is .437 wide. That is a big difference. I don't have an AD truck so this may make sense. Or not. Don't know, just FYI. You mention 32" so that means you did order the division bar run channel and I guess you also ordered the bulk run channel.

Why are you focusing on Steele if you purchased from 4 different vendors?



pix If you purchased run channel from 4 different vendors and none works, you have something bad wrong. 1/4 glass is OK. So that leaves a bend or wrong division bar..or you didn't remove the old one completely and left the old metal in there. pix

See you on the flip side.

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,168
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,168
Originally Posted by bartamos
It says order the 6' if using without vent window, Don't know what that means. Anyway it is .625 wide.

Bartamos, 1950 and earlier were a one piece window, no vent wing. And the Steele description actually doesn't make sense as the earlier glass had their own frames? It would only make sense if somebody was eliminating the vent wing to put a one piece glass conversion.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
Where did you get your glass? I am betting bartamos' last nickel that your glass is too thick. Four vendors can't be wrong when no one else is having the same issue.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,115
G
Insomniac
Insomniac
G Offline
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,115
My windows barely moved after installing original windows with new channels. I thought that the winders would break when trying to crank them up and down. After spraying the channels with silicone spray, they moved much easier!


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,988
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,988
Originally Posted by 52Carl
Where did you get your glass? I am betting bartamos' last nickel that your glass is too thick. Four vendors can't be wrong when no one else is having the same issue.

1. Quote from Roy: "The glass is 1/4 (.250) thick and when the "felt strip" is installed it closes down some."

2. You are correct that four vendors can't be wrong.........so hence my "two bit" explanation about division bar being damaged or old run channel not removed.

3. Gord is right about glass being tight after a window restore. It will loosen up after awhile but this is hard to imagine: From Roy: "If I have the vent assy on the bench (Not in the door) with the felt runner mounted in the division bar. I can not pass a piece of glass thru the felt track."

4. For now I will have to lean towards Gord's comment as I have had this also...but.....but.........Reserve the right to be right in no. 2.


Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0
(Release build 20240826)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 8.3.11 Page Time: 0.060s Queries: 14 (0.055s) Memory: 0.6616 MB (Peak: 0.7705 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2025-09-22 11:38:49 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS