I just scored a replacement set on ebay for my chipped up NAPCO ones.
However, I'm wondering if it's a good idea to replace the ball bearings before installing?
There is some minor corrosion pitting in one of the joints, but existing balls seem very round still. However, measuring all 6 of them I get variation between 0.8105 and .8125" according to my digital calipers.
It looks like I can get new .8125" balls made of E52100 Chrome steel or S2 tool steel. The chrome steel ones list a tighter tolerance, but the tool steel ones supposedly have better shock resistance. Maybe the tolerance won't be an issue if i just get 2packs and select the best matching ones? https://www.mcmaster.com/ball-bearings/metal/diameter~0-8125inches/
I'd go with tool steel and try to keep the diameter tolerance within .0005" or so if possible. A micrometer would be a better choice that a caliper if you have one handy. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
NAPCO setups have to put up with a lot of stress even if you never take one off road. Might even be worse stress on the hard top. They are absolutely cool beans, and I get pumped whenever I see one, but they are high maintenance to keep them rolling. They go through bearings pretty fast, leak grease all over the place, dificult to get the right combination of correct parts, etc, but again, they are too cool to dismiss!
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Talk about a beating. The knuckle bearing trunnions are known to break off sometimes! Mine was no so unfortunate, but I had some entertaining wear on the lower knuckle bearings. However, with new bearings it's a breeze to steer on pavement even with big-ish tires. One of my spindles is torn up from losing the wheel hub at some point, not to mention bubba repairs on one side for permanent hub engagement. Though somebody was good about greasing it... drum brakes were packed full of overflow grease and everything had a 1" shell of dirt/grease around it!
Picture above shows where those highly engineered iron bump stops constantly bashed the frame! ... I actually tested 4wd a bit last weekend. Finally fixed the transfer case so it can go into low range. Between the 7:1 granny gear and 1.9 t-case she can crawl nice and slow! Talk about a power steering 'pump'... my arms were shredded after a few miles of manual steering over melon sized rocks.
Back on topic though: Do you guys know anywhere that re-grinds cv joints?
