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#1369420 07/17/2020 1:16 AM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 783
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 783
I'm planning to replace the bed wood in the '47 in the near future. However, the front bed panel is bowed (see attached picture). The panel is solid and doesn't appear to have any rust on the lower edge. Do you think I could straighten the panel or should I just go with a new reproduction panel? It appears that a made in the USA panel is available as is a foreign reproduction panel. I really hate to discard the original front bed panel, but I will if I have to.

As you can see, the PO used some 2 X 6 boards for the bed and it's time to do it right.

Let me know your thoughts, thanks.
Attachments
FRONT BED PANEL.jpg (109.69 KB, 120 downloads)


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 308
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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There is only one good way to do your Beds..Mar_K.. I used another vendor for the 49, used Mar-k for the 51. Get help from 3 friends and do it off the truck--No left over parts--Bill

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Crown side up supported by a 2X4 on each end. Lay a 2X12 in the middle and drive over the 2X12 might straighten the bow. I’m sure it’s been done so others will have ideas too.🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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AD Addict & Tinkerer
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Since your removing the boards, you should be able to remove the front panel to try to straighten it. You’ve got nothing to lose. First try placing it on the floor supported by 2x4’s on both sides, bow side up and step on the high spots. Use a straight edge to check frequently. Try bouncing on it a bit. If that doesn’t work, find something that is stiff like an I-beam, large angle iron, welding table top or a stout wooden board (2x8 - 2x10, etc.) to take the place of the floor and support it like you did on the floor but instead of standing on it, use large c-clamps. To straighten the dents in the top rail, find something metal (cylindrical or a pipe if you can find one that fits) that just fits inside the and as you pass it thru, it will get stuck where the dents are. Use a hammer to tap it back into shape using the cylindrical metal object as a dolly. You might have to drive it thru as your tapping to remove the dents.

If all else fails, you can always buy a new one. Good luck and have fun!


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

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Renaissance Man
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Here is my take on truck beds. THEY ARE TRUCK BEDS. What you have is called character. It isn't all dinged up by a thousand blows from loose cargo. Unless you plan on taking it to SEMA, I wouldn't do a thing to it, nor even consider replacing it. I do not believe that you can take the bow out of the top rail without making things worse.
One other thing. Having that bow in the tailgate will draw prying eyes away from any other flaws which may be on your truck. smile


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 783
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
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While SEMA is not in my immediate future, I do appreciate everyone's input.

Thanks,


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
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Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by HandyAndy
While SEMA is not in my immediate future,
Thanks,
Nevertheless, yours is a beautiful truck as is.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,034
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,034
Here's what I used to get the roll on my bed sides round again. Photo 1 photo 2 photo 3 That's a slide hammer with a big ball bearing welded on the front adapter.
Phak1 and Justhorsenround have the right idea for taking the bow out. Although I'd start with a foot rather than driving over the center. You'd be surprised how much bow you can get out with a #12 boot planted firmly in the middle.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 783
Carl,

Coming from such an esteemed member of the ODSS, a compliment of that nature is one to be cherished by a humble Heartland Stovebolter for an extended period of time. Thanks, you made my day! nanner

Originally Posted by 52Carl
Nevertheless, yours is a beautiful truck as is.

Kevin,

Thanks for the pics and ideas to clean the front bed panel up. It looks like that would do the job. Maybe, I'll give the #10 boot a try, gently of course..........sometimes you just gotta work with what you have! thumbs_up

Originally Posted by klhansen
Although I'd start with a foot rather than driving over the center. You'd be surprised how much bow you can get out with a #12 boot planted firmly in the middle.


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown

Moderated by  klhansen 

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