The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop oil pan sludge

hi so i just bought a 1951 deluxe 2 door sedan with a 216 and a 3 speed on the tree.
i dont think the old girl has ran in at least 20 years but with a fresh 6 volt battery and after some marvel mystery oil soaking in the plug holes, a little gas in the carb, she kicked and ran for about 30 seconds.
my next plan was to drain the oil. when i pulled the plug, nothing came out. i should say that i had checked the oil before trying to start it and it was old, but seemed pretty clean.
so when i pulled the plug and nothing came out, i was surprised because the dip stick showed full. i then took a stick and poked a hole in the sludge and oil drained out. i even jacked up the front and let it drain over night. not sure if its 5 qts that came out but it could be.

my question is should i drop the pan and see whats going on or just refill it run it and drain it again? i've heard of people running gas down the dipstick hole and letting it set then draining that and refilling with oil. any ideas on that?

so if i need to drop the pan, is there a "easy" way to do it? i've read that there are 2 bolts that can drop the front subframe but i'm not sure where those bolts are. or is it better to lift the motor?

i'm not looking forward to doing either as i'm not sure how good the engine is. clock says 55,000 miles but who knows. i guess my worry is if there is that amount of sludge will the pickup tube be clogged? the oil i drained was smooth and not lumpy.

thanks in advance for the help. this site was instrumental in keeping my old panel running and i'm glad to have another project stovebolt in my shop.

Not a truck. You are asking how to pull the pan on a car not a truck. I don’t believe the process is the same. I’m sure you will get your answer shortly.

yes, not a truck but i thought someone would have info on the issue do i need to do it. thanks

???

Jerry may show up and tell you. He said something about taking a nap in the dirt earlier today, so it may be a while. As I recall, his solution involves pouring diesel fuel in the oil pan and running it for a while, but let's see if he'll give us the answer...

Nice car. Hope you enjoy it.

I’d pull the pan and clean it out. Also check/clean the mesh filter and oil pump.

Put oil back in it. Get it to run. Then add 2 quarts of diesel (NOT GAS) in the oil and run at a fast idle for 20 minutes. Do not drive the vehicle. Drain the crankcase and refill with oil. Good to go.🛠

I thought the Stovebolt was an engine not a truck.

I had a '51 Deluxe 2-Door myself. My 1st car in 1962. Here it is in 1968 in the sagebrush of Wyoming. See my signature link for more on this car and how the 216 got it there.

Since you already turned it over, you now may or may not have bent pushrods, although in your dry climate you might be OK. Best when starting a sleeping engine besides checking oil and water, is to tap all the valves with a rubber hammer or 2 X 4 after oiling the guides to make sure none are stuck.

Ed

Wally nowhere in this site’s mission statements will you find reference to Stovebolt.com being about the engine. It’s about Trucks. I have reached out to the OP by PM and explained how to get his engine questions answered as well as his “Car” questions.

I would strongly urge you to drop the pan. A 216 has troughs where the dippers on the connecting rod scoop up oil to lube the bearings. With as much sludge as you have described, I would not want to risk running this engine on scooped up sludge, not even at idle.

No one wants to talk cars here even if they are Stovebolt powered but I actually have the same car. Has a 261 in it now, but ive run the 216 for years b4 changing it. The exact thing happened to me a few times. Pull the drain plug, then poke to get the oil out. Its not uncommon. Do the diesel trick, Justhorsearound mentioned. That engine was probably run on nondetergent oil it whole life. Nondetergent oil is designed to leave the crap in the pan. More modern oil is designed to suspend the particles so they flow and get trapped in the filter. I wouldnt be afraid of it. Change oil often, make sure its full always. Run it. Keep us updated.

So now we’re posting car pictures! This forum has a very forgiving Moderator.

It is a fine looking car and I'll admit I wish I had it. It has balance, it has an aerodynamic look, every single line was the result of a lot of thought and aside from not having A/C, these were really comfortable on long trips. Just like the AD trucks these will always be catch attention. Too bad we don't still have new cars like it today.

Eeee. Sorry. And thanks.

I've learned to come at it this way: I've got a 53 pickup with a 216 and a 41 sedan with the same engine. I may not always be so precise about which vehicle to which I am referring. If you don't already have one, get a truck, Glenn, then you can ask away!

Another vote for dropping the pan. Running it any more with this mess in the crankcase is NOT a good idea.

The sludge is sludge........mixing it with gas or diesel makes it only less sludge like. Sending a mix of solvent, new oil and sludge is not going to help or improve the bearing in any way shape or form.

While it is what it is as far as the current engine Mechanical condition.........do no ( more) harm is the order of the day.

I agree the oil pickup screen is likely completely or effectively blocked at this point.

Remove and clean the pan.

Ed

Been out of town for a couple of days- - - -inspecting an 82 Corvette with 9K original miles on it for a potential buyer in Australia. It's not quite showroom new, but it's still got the tires that it came from the dealer with and the tread looks brand new. Nope- - - -no "highway speed test drive" was done on 40 year old tires!
Jerry

I'm not going to touch this one. However, I'm so tempted to say something it is a 216 but I'm in enough trouble as it is. Doc.

I've been doing the solvent flush for over 50 years, and the only engines I've experienced problems with already had internal damage that the thinned-out oil could not have created. One that's knocking already from a damaged bearing or a scored crankshaft won't get magically healed by a little Diesel fuel, but it's by far the best way to clean out a sludged-up crankcase. By overfilling the oil pan, the crankshaft whips down into the liquid like the agitator in a washing machine and splashes the oil/Diesel mix in all directions. Drain the pan while the oil is still hot and most, if not all of the sludge comes out. There's no way to do a better job of cleaning with a brush and solvent with the pan off.
Jerry

Jerry, Like you i would not even think of starting a sludged (spelling?), up engine. I have gone to the trouble to tear down engines that are in that kind of condition always hoping that this will be my first with no damage. Hasn't happened yet. I can say that not turning over a engine with the starter and spark plugs out has proved to not cause more damage. Maybe some day I will get lucky and find a 1930's + vehicle in a barn that has set for decades that was parked not because of a problem but because the new vehicle was delivered or picked up. Did happen with my 1936 Farmall. Pulled into barn when the new tractor was delivered. Still removed head to make sure had no stuck rings. Ed

When I bought my 5700 it was running but very poorly. I pulled the engine and trans 'cause I had to do a new clutch and discovered before pulling the engine that it had a wiped out cam and lifter on at least one valve. I removed all of the tin from the engine to find extreme sludge, after lots of cleaning I pulled a couple of main caps and rod caps and was very surprised to see how nice the journals were. Took the oil pump apart to clean and inspect, cleaned the pick-up screen. I had a cam and lifters, chain and gears from a 355 project from years ago that had about 2000 miles on it so with new gaskets and seals and all new clutch parts it went back in the truck. I don't think the new cam would have survived if I didn't de-sludge it even though the cam had already been broken in on the 355. Just my 2 cents.