MIke, yes, the suffix U was a big truck (series 6000) 235, and designated Loadmaster (vs Thriftmaster).
Gavrin1, the engine would have originally had solid lifters. Good to double check, but as I recall, the '56 235s only had the oil galley drilled to accept hydraulic lifters if they were originally equipped with them (so only passenger car service in '56).
Pull the pushrod cover and one lifter. If the lifter has a snap ring at the top and a moveable plunger it's hydraulic. That's the only way to be sure- - - - -all the other advice on identification methods you'll get are simply a SWAG (Scientific Wild-Donkey Guess) While the lifter is out, use an inspection mirror and a bright light to look for the big oil passage drilled from front to rear. If it's not there, you won't be able to use hydraulic lifters. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
And if you remove that lifter (no matter what type), wipe the oil off and set it bottom end down on a piece of flat glass or something like a granite counter. If it sits perfectly still, that isn't really a good sign. It tells you the lifter has worn concave at the bottom and this means it won't rotate in the bore as it ought to. In a perfect world it will be slightly convex and will rock around a bit on the glass...and this along with a slight angle grind on the cam is what helps it to rotate and keep from wearing a slot in the bottom of the lifter.
By the way, Jerry...I've never seen a Scientific Wild Donkey. Guess those must be native to Tennessee.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
The brand new (New Old Stock) milk can lifters we put into John's 261 last year were perfectly flat on the bottom- - - -I checked them with a straight edge. On later lifters, you're correct- - - -a straight edge such as the back of a new hacksaw blade or a machinist's scale should rock slightly.
There are three categories of advice: WAG- - - -"Wild "Donkey" Guess SWAG- - - -Scientific Wild "Donkey" Guess T-LAR:- - - - -"Thattttt- - - - -lookssssss- - - -abouttttt- - - - -rightttttt"!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Most Sealed Power solid lifters have a spring clip- - - -It's just the same hollow lifter body as the hydraulic ones have, with a non-movable pushrod cup retained by the same spring clip as they use on the hydraulic type. There's a small drain hole near the bottom of the lifter base to prevent oil from getting trapped. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If you are now confused on how to identify a solid or a hydraulic lifter in your 1956 engine, don't feel bad because you are not the only one.
You were first told: If the lifter has a snap ring at the top and a moveable plunger it's hydraulic.
That is correct.
Then you were told: Most Sealed Power solid lifters have a spring clip- - - - It's just the same hollow lifter body as the hydraulic ones have, with a non-movable pushrod cup retained by the same spring clip as they use on the hydraulic type.
That is NOT correct.
If your 1956 engine has solid lifters, the lifters will NOT have a "Snap Ring" or a Spring Clip".
Here are some pics of lifters for your 1956 engine...
