Back in the early 90's my grandfather I recently picked up my first "restoration" project. It's a Canadian Model 1314, 1950, 1/2 ton, stepside pickup. Looked to be a pretty complete truck when I went to see it. Factory Red with white stripe, no heater (from factory), Grey interior, maroon door panels and seat. It was purchased at McKenzie Motors in Alberta, Canada. It made it's way to Saskatchewan at some point, and I picked it up outside Kindersley, SK. The factory 216 is in the truck, it was seized when I bought it.
Now that I have it home in the garage and started to tear into it, there is a little more rust than expected! And the engine was the reason it was parked.
I have stripped the interior, and will be doing some rust repairs on the floor. I have the engine all ready to come out of the truck, and have started to look for a replacement. Hoping to keep an inliner in it! If you know of one in the Saskatoon region, let me know.
Looking forward to getting this truck back on the road, and doing truck things. Won't be a show truck, but will be great to get it driving again.
Hi Trevor, your original engine should be rebuildable with local parts Napa may surprise you with what they stock locally I picked up a new brass carb float for my 53 last month It was in stock in Saskatoon, no shipping or waiting. And they also had the brake masters and slaves for my 1ton a couple years ago.
For a whole engine go see Amigos in Clavet, they have many to pick from.
And one last note, your Canadian truck will have a few random differences from its USA counterparts so consider than before blindly following most specifications and advice you get online and here, all your tiny parts will have been made in Canada not the USA. Sometimes they had quite different bits. -Stan
Thanks for the reply, and the tips. Unfortunately I think the 216 needs babbitts. Best I have been able to figure. Thanes was the last shop that did it around here (and they haven't had the tooling for 15 years).
I'll give Amigos a shout.
Yes, I have noticed the Canadian truck has a few differences!
I removed the passenger side windscreen yesterday evening to see how bad the rust is on the support. It's bad, the top of the window (where the roof panel, and support should be joined), I was hoping that wasn't the case! I'll have to hone my welding a bit more for that job.
Hello Trevor, the half tons are getting tough to find. It's on my bucket list to one day drive an old Chevy truck on a long road trip and stop in for a beer in Saskatoon.
Spent a little more time in the shop the past few days! I have the engine ready to come out, just need to rent an engine hoist to get it out. I have stripped the interior out (the mouse nests were next level!). While waiting on the to come out, I decided to do some rust conversion painting in the cab. Did the floor, behind the gas tank, underside of the roof. The interior will likely all get painted, at some point. While doing the interior stripping and painting, I started to look at the front roof panel support a bit closer (it was/is by far the worst spot of rust on the truck, next being the passenger side floor). Found another mouse home, cleaned it out, and watched the "metal" disappear into the vaccuum! It's bad. Anyone replace one of these, and have some pointers? I am considering buying the patch panel from LMC (or similar), and removing the spot welds from the pillars, and along the section the supports the window. BUT, the center section of the section that supports the window is also missing (as in rusted away). Drivers side is the same way, I don't have a picture of it on my computer. Not sure about how best to repair the window section, again, considering putting the support in first, and then making the patch for the roof/windows. It looks as though the windshield pillars were replaced at some point, there is some "lead" filler visible on the left hand side of the photo. Top and bottom of the pillar. Drivers and passenger. So for a project that I could complete, rather than another one leading to more work, I got the doors to close properly. It's the small victories right?
Welcome to the Stovebolt. These old trucks can be a lot of fun to work on. You can buy brand new brake drums for the half ton if you wanted. That is something that is not possible for me and my 1 Ton so you are lucky! We look forward to seeing and hearing about your journey as you go along.
More updates! Engine is out. That's something I don't want to do alone again... Bed is off. Now I can get a good idea of what I need to repair the bed. Shock perches need replacing, they are both broken off. Easier to work on the brakes now too. Contacted someone about doing some body work for me. I'm not sure I have the skills to repair around the windows. Getting the hood off, and bed off alone was a chore. Going back on I'll need to call in some help for sure. Started at the brakes. Master cylinder came off, but is all seized. Rear wheel cylinders had to come off to get the drums off. The lip on the rear drums is near a 1/4". I haven't had any luck tracking down an engine yet, but will put that on hold while I get the body sorted. Amigos said they didn't have any? The flywheel has seen some heat in it's day. Bellhousing looks okay! Needs a cleaning. The mice had a nest in the bellhousing, and then there was a bee hive, so it was extra crusty in there.
I am considering buying the patch panel from LMC (or similar), and removing the spot welds from the pillars, and along the section the supports the window. BUT, the center section of the section that supports the window is also missing (as in rusted away). Drivers side is the same way, I don't have a picture of it on my computer. Not sure about how best to repair the window section, again, considering putting the support in first, and then making the patch for the roof/windows. It looks as though the windshield pillars were replaced at some point, there is some "lead" filler visible on the left hand side of the photo. Top and bottom of the pillar. Drivers and passenger.
Welcome to the forums. Lots of help available here on Stovebolt. That lead you're seeing is from the factory. That was used back in the day instead of fiberglass filler. Your cab doesn't look that bad. There are a lot of posts with advice over on the paint and body forum.
Good luck with your project.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thanks, Kevin! Ah, I wasn't sure if it was something that was done at the factory or not. I'll check out the paint and body forum. There sure is a lot of good information on this site to read!
Thank you for all the welcomes! Spent the last few evenings sorting out the garage, there are a lot of parts in a truck! They seem to take up a lot of space when not in their original location too. I'm back around to the interior, working on getting the last of the mouse remnants out of the seats. Stripped the original covers off the seats (maroon), the horse hair also got ditched. Unfortunately the wire strung through the burlap was not salvageable. What's anyone done to replace it? The seat frame is in pretty good shape, the springs are all there, none of them are broken. The wire around the top perimeter is broken, I will likely try and braze that back together. The support that goes from the edges to the side, is also broken (and partially missing) and will get replaced. The sliding mechanism was in pretty good condition, two stuck pulleys, that I was able to free. The cables disintegrated where the mouse nests had been sitting on them, but should be easy enough to re-thread, once I find some suitable steel cable/rope. I'm thinking of trying to order up one of the seat cover kits from Jim Carter. As for the body work, I have a guy who does body work lined up to come over and give me some direction as to how best approach the repairs. I am still searching for either a shop that does babbit work, or another engine (235/261). If anyone has a line on one, let me know. I'm in Saskatchewan.
Spent a few evenings in the shop chipping away at the truck. Have the pistons out of the block, and what do you know? It wasn't a bad bearing or babbit that was preventing this old engine from running! All the lifters are froze in place from rust. So Good news, bad news? Ha. I'll be calling around to see if there is a shop in town that has done insert bearing conversions for the connecting rods, and see if I can get this old 216 running again! I also worked on the seats this week, getting the slides to function once again. Evaporust for all the small parts, fresh paint, and mostly reassembled. Have to get some more steel cable/rope to finish it up. I'm also missing some nuts/washers/lockwashers to re-install back in the truck, but I have some time before the cab is ready for the seat...
Looking for some advice on engines. I would like to keep a straight six in the truck. The 216 needs rebuilding. I have found a 235, a 261 out of a '62 pontiac car that needs rebuilding, or a machined 261 in boxes. Should I consider replacing the 216, or stick with it seeing how all my current options need a date with a machine shop?
The main adaptations/changes might be the front motor mount and the relocation of the an old-style water pump (and, maybe the harmonic balancer). You might have to be “creative” in attaching the accelerator and choke cables.
If the 216 runs, you might want to keep it in the truck.
Haven't spent much time working on the truck the past bit. I have the engine out, and apart. Only the lifters and cam are left in the block (the lifters are seized). Contemplating taking it to a machine shop to have them clean it up, and assess to see if it would be a candidate for a rebuild. The flywheel is toast, any idea where a person could source another one? Also, check out that front axle! I guess one of the previous owners wanted a "heavy duty" option...
You have the Canadian 216 with the short side cover. If you have a crack in the head, those heads are hard to find. So that may be something to think about. I have the same motor and it took me several years to find a replacement head.
I think you have a good old truck there. You can buy a lot more of the running gear for the 1/2 ton than you can for the 1 Ton so that is a good thing.
Dropped the engine off at the machine shop for a cleaning, and inspection. Interested to see what they will find. Sure is easier to wrangle the block with two people out the back of the XC70!
Little update. I haven't heard back from the machine shop about the engine, but have been picking away at cleaning up the bellhousing, getting parts lined up for the starter rebuild, new clutch and pressure plate, I decided I should pull the SM318 and give it a quick once over... When I pulled the fill plug (I always do that first now ...) I found some gray paste. I then pulled the drain plug, and there were lots of chunks under all the gray paste. The oil is shimmering to say the least...
I also found the bellhousing has a bit of a storied past.
Anyhow, I think with the each of the new discoveries I encounter, it is making the decision to swap a sbc, and a Turbo 350 (or similar) into this much easier. Thinking of using a Ford 8.8 rear end. Maybe. Maybe not. I have a line on one built to spec for what I want for $4k, based off a Ford 9".
Block is free of cracks. Cylinders need to be bored out to .30 over to clean up the out of round, and some scoring. Deck needs to be cleaned up, 10 thou. Crank is bent, but can be fixed, out about 20 thou (i think). They are on the hunt for parts, will be going to insert bearings.
Not sure the state of the head. They hadn't quite finished with it when I was speaking with them.
The flywheel they thought would clean right up. They didn't mention it today either, which usually means it's fine.
I dropped the gearbox off at a transmission / driveshaft shop today. They did a few of them this summer, and think they can get all the pieces they need to bring it around.
I have started cleaning up the starter, it's in pretty good condition. Once I get all the oil/grease off it should work fine. The brushes are slightly worn. I may order a rebuild kit for it, because it's apart.
I also have order some of the body parts that I have been putting off. The support behind the windshield in particular, I am not looking forward to taking on. The entire upper pinch weld (where the window seal would go) is missing, and I am going to attempt to rebuild. Looking at getting an everlast dual voltage mig welder for the task.
I'll keep you all updated on here when I hear more. Most of the shops are running a few weeks behind. Seems like everyone has had extra time to work on their projects this summer...
Gearbox is rebuild able! The reverse gear has some chunks missing, and has been rubbing on the case. They happen to have a reverse gear, and everything else at the shop. Will only cost me about $1200 cdn pesos to have it repaired...
On the hunt for a newer 3spd, 4spd (Saginaw maybe), and s10 t5. As well as a solid axle about 60" wide (axle flange to axle flange). Geared in the 3.73, 3.55, 3.41 range. Specifically ford 8.8, 9 and chev 12 bolt. AMIGOS should have something suitable, they are looking. The rocket shop near melfort has a couple of gearboxes that would work with an open driveline as well (3spd out if an Iraqi taxi, t5 out of an s10, and a turbo 350 if I go v8).
Committed to the 216 today! Machine shop was able to source all the needed parts. So I plan to do a restoration. Nice when a plan starts to come together!
Had a day off of work today. Stopped by the machine shop, all the parts have arrived. Machining will start in the New Year. Gearbox is also being rebuilt.
I've been rebuilding the windshield frame, passenger side is pretty near done (needs to be cleaned up a bit better), drivers side is together, but will need to come apart it's not quite right. I built the passenger side patch panels on my bench, worked pretty slick. I attempted to build the patch panel in place on the drivers side. While much faster, it will need to be redone. It doesn't have the correct dimensions, which I didn't notice when I tacked it all into place (too many welding fumes maybe?).
The rear window frame also needed some patches, those panels have turned out to be WAY harder to make. Super frustrating trying to get all the curves to match. Currently they do not. Which is just fine, as long as it holds the window in place.
I have been following a resto-mod/hot rod build on my social media, his cab is about as rough as mine is. After doing some of the repairs he mentions it would be easier to buy a new cab, if certain areas as rusted (like ours). But where would the challenge be in that?
Gaskets have arrived for the torque tube to rear axle, and rear axle cover. Will get that done over the Christmas break, probably.
Ordered a bunch of electrical parts for the engine (points, condenser, cap, rotor, etc), fuel pump rebuild kit, and a few other bits.
Looking for a disk brake conversion for the front (my drums are cracked, w/ pieces missing, and wore so thin they are almost in two pieces), speedway has one, but the shipping is ridiculous. I'd like to keep the stock axle rather than a mustang ii setup.
Rear drums are equally as junk (drums have near a 1/4" lip on them), and the springs are rust (like gone, only rust remains).
Anyone have a source for rear drums/shoes/wheel cylinders, dual pot master, and disk brake setup in Canada or that won't cost be more than the kit to ship to Canada?
Carburetor (s), I need a different one that I have. Mine is complete, but garbage (the linkages have be soldered back together in places, so it cannot be disassembled, and there is excessive play in the links as well). I spoke with the Carburetor Shop (fantastic service), and I think I will be ordering up a Carter YF to replace the 7002050 once COVID is history, and they are shipping internationally again.
A few pictures. My Son is pretty excited for it to "not be broken". I have the seats half repaired (seat cover is partially on, needs final sewing), back rest still needs to be redone (I have the material, but haven't done it yet).
Picked up a few parts from another 'bolter here in SK. The fella has 52 stovebolts on his property, and is constantly buying more. Got another radiator, splash pan (front bumper), rear window, windshields, complete front axle.
If you're in Western Canada, and need stovebolt parts (or another complete truck), I'd get in touch with him. Some of his cabs, make me wonder why I am messing around with the rusty bucket I have!
While I was there, he sold his grain truck to a fella in MB. It's a stovebolt, of course. As is his towtruck.
Didn't get too much done on the truck this weekend, started installing some shocks on the rear (easy, feel good task - putting something back on, rather than taking more things apart!). Did a bit more metal work around the windows (I don't quite have the dimensions correct on the drivers side). Some final grinding of some welds on the window support (those flappy wheels on angle grinders, are mint). Cleaned up the fuel pump, waiting on a rebuild kit. Practiced re-assembling it with the old parts. Getting the arm back in the eye, with the springs installed is a chore.
While I'm here, can tubeless tires be mounted on the original wheels? Or should I stick to tubed, bias ply tires?
Since the last update, I have the windshields, and rear glass installed. New wiring harness (nearly finished reconnecting the gauges). Re-installed the engine, and transmission. New ignition system (still 6v). New positive battery cable (000 gauge). Brake hard lines, and rubber lines replaced (3/4). I missed the passenger side front hardline! What a pain that one is to do with the engine in place... Rear brake shoes Fuel tank has been replaced. radiator installed New front springs New tires (on original wheels). Need to add some gear oil to the gearbox, and it should be ready to start! Need to finish up the brakes (new wheel cylinders, and springs, finish the hardline in the front, attach the rubber lines, and then bleed!) Should be "driveable" by spring (or sooner, if I feel like venturing into the deepfreeze).
You have got allot of work done in a short period of time. You’ll be driving soon. Conrgats! 2X on the pics!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Trevor has had almost 6,000 views in the DITY Gallery before it was closed. Been doing some clean-up in there.
Trevor's resto is definitely one that needs to go in with the Project Journals. Unusual in that it's a Canadian truck ...
Moving it now. Trevor said he'll catch up on what he's been doing since last post in DITY. Stay tuned.
Thanks, Trevor.
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery || In the Gallery Forum "I didn't see this one coming. I don't see much of anything coming. :-O"
Well, it's been a minute since I have updated this thread!
Thanks to Peggy for moving it for me, and reminding me to keep adding to it.
Last year (2022), I didn't do much to the truck. I put plywood in the bed and drove it.
There were a few things that came to light that I planned to address over this past winter.
Brakes. These 4 wheel drum brakes, and single pot manual master work, but not like modern brakes. Kind-of lost interest over the winter and never got around to ordering parts to do power brakes.
Steering. Yikes. Replaced the drag links, ordered new style ball joints, and connecting rod (or whatever you'd Iike to call it last fall, it arrived Friday, June 9th 2023). So didn't get to that this winter either.
Gearing. I was ready to replace everything from the bellhousing back, but bought and 87 4x4 and realized keeping the torque tube has kind of a cool factor and the leaks and gearing problems were really not that bad.
I put the truck up for sale recently as it had become a catch all in my shop, gathering garbage, kids toys, recycling, and dust.
Cleaned it all out and got it back together with the old spare parts I had lying around. Insured it today, took it for one last drive, and realized, I really enjoy driving this truck and am going to keep it. But the brakes are still awful! It needs an alignment, and that steering shimmy I thought I had fixed with the new steering parts is still there. I'll have to look into that a bit further.
Today I removed the plywood from the box and replaced it with white oak i had milled. Stained with boiled linseed oil.
Over the winter I had replaced the passenger side fenders that I bought off someone local. They are in much better condition than mine were, but they are off different trucks. Passenger side fender gaps are pretty good. Drivers are all out of whack. Good enough the hood closes, but not much to look at. I had repaired the core support which had cracked around one of the radiator mounts at the base.
I'll relearn how to post pictures, and put a few updated ones on here.
Until then, maybe we'll see you at cars and coffee if Saskatoon on Sundays.
Quick update on the 1314. Currently all winterized, and have started to plan out the repairs for the winter. First up, rear suspension (replace all the bushings) I have been putting this off for a couple of years, and while I’m there rear wheel bearings and reseal the diff cover. New carburetor, the original has works ok but they guy I had rebuild it for me did say it was wore out. For example, The top where the oil filled air filter attaches h as been near wore through from years of the filter rattling around on it. If i have any extra money and time left after this, I’d like to relocate the fuel tank out of the cab. Hard to drive it to work, and arrive smelling like gas. Lastly, keep picking away at fender fit, and the interior always needs some tinkering (weatherstripping, door seals, noise reduction).
Hope all you’re projects are going well, remember to get out in the shop and work on them, even if it’s only for a few minutes. It all adds up.
You should just replace the tank behind the seat or get a new sending unit gasket. I put a new tank in my truck and it doesn't leak fuel or fumes and neither the cab nor I smell like gasoline. If that's happening in your case , something's amiss.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Replaced the rear leaf springs, and all but one bushing. Couldn't get the bolt off the torque tube, will take it for an alignment once the snow melts, and have someone replace it at that time.
Been doing a bit of hood alignment. I replaced one of the front fenders last year, and never quite got the alignment right. Needed to reshim the core support to finally get it looking good.
Replaced another master cylinder this year, went with one from classic parts. It looks closer to the one I took off. We'll see if it works any better. I added a 10lb residual valve as well. See if that improves the braking at all. Not that I'm expecting modern braking characteristics.
I recently picked up some new carbs, and an intake. Looking forward to getting it all together, and running. The carb that was on it was original, but I could never get it to work quite right. Local guy told me to use it as a doorstop:).
I will need to remove the vaccum "advance" on the distributor as the new 9super7 carbs don't have the vaccuum port. And I could never get it to work right anyhow.
Other than a few little things, once the carbs are on, and plumbed I plan to put the truck back on the road for a another summer!
I replaced my mc, wheel cylinders and shoes a year ago with whatever Rock Auto had. Dynamic Friction brand. Once the Huck brakes were adjusted I found the braking to be perfectly adequate. In other words I have no qualms about the truck's stopping abilities. So far I have no complaints with any of the parts.
I did save the original USA made mc for possible rebuild in the future.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I bought an mc from O'Reilly's and got 4 wc kits from one of the usual vendors. New brake lines, drums and shoes. Brakes will squalk now. No problems. Would have rebuilt the mc too but didn't like the pitting between the cups.
~~ Jethro 1954 3100 Back to Life In the Dity Gallery 1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
Back in the early 90's my grandfather I recently picked up my first "restoration" project. It's a Canadian Model 1314, 1950, 1/2 ton, stepside pickup. Looked to be a pretty complete truck when I went to see it. Factory Red with white stripe, no heater (from factory), Grey interior, maroon door panels and seat. It was purchased at McKenzie Motors in Alberta, Canada. It made it's way to Saskatchewan at some point, and I picked it up outside Kindersley, SK. The factory 216 is in the truck, it was seized when I bought it.
It's on my bucket list to one day drive an old Chevy truck on a long road trip and stop in for a beer in Saskatoon.
