The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Need help with a non-split ring wheel

Does anyone know of a video or have good instructions for how to disassemble this wheel?

I scoured the internet but could only find the split ring style.

Thanks

Scott

Look at the other side of the wheel. If there is a flat raised band approximately 2" wide near the middle you're dealing with the infamous Firestone RH-5 "widowmaker" wheel. There is a huge amount of information on those wheels on this site and elsewhere on the internet, but to make a short story even shorter, the only really safe thing to do with those wheels is to deflate the tire, disassemble the rim, and destroy it. The locking point is at the center of the rim where the two halves snap together, and they have a nasty habit of separating explosively with no warning. The locking lips are very narrow, and any deterioration from rust or damage from mishandling during tire changes makes them deadly dangerous.

Google "Firestone RH-5 wheel" and you'll find several hours' worth of reading, none of it complimentary.
Jerry

Here is a shot of the backside.

I was told early on that they were not RH-5 but a lock ring design instead.

Hoping that is true.

I believe it is a 3 piece design maybe referred to as an AR or AK. I think Kelsey Hayes made them or something similar.

Close up of the front

I'm not sure that wheel is the RH-5, it looks like a 2-piece Lock Ring.

If I'm right the silver ring at the tire bead will be missing it's locking lip at two places 180* apart. To take it apart you deflate the tire, separate the ring from the tire, push the ring and tire bead down, find the two sections that don't have the lock lip. Think of these two spots as 3 and 9 o'clock, now put a pry bar/tire iron at 12 o'clock (there may be a little slot for the pry bar). then step down at 6 o'clock and pull the ring up and over the lip of the wheel. Because there is no lip on the sides (3 & 9 o'clock) the ring will slide past that area and come off.

It may require a tire hammer to get the tire bead to release from the lock ring and the back side...tire lube will help.

Hope you had your Wheaties for breakfast!

A big truck tire shop should also be able to break them down for you.

Mike B

Hy stouchton and guys, those wheels look like three piece wheels to me. Stouchton with the wheel in position with the white ring facing up remove the valve core from the tube and let the tire deflate completely, once the tire is deflated, push the tire bead down anyway you can, it could be difficult to get it to go down. Once you get the tire bead down the white ring can be knocked down toward the tire if it didn't follow the tire bead down, once the white ring is down it should reveal the locking or keystone ring, that ring should have a split somewhere on it, that split can be pried open and up and off the rim. Once the keystone ring is off the wheel the white ring should lift off the wheel and the tire should be able to be removed once the opposite bead is broken, hope that helps.

Find a tire shop that will do it and pay the money.

Thanks guys - I am taking it to a tire shop, just wanted to figure out how it comes apart. I deflated them and pressed the bead down but did not know what to do next and did not want to hurt anything.

I found a bunch of videos on line with split locking rings, but I do not think this ring is split. It does have one place to pry, but was not sure what I needed to move first. I think Mike B has explained it above. I'm anxious to see if the tire shop will let me watch.

OK- - - -on closer examination, I see the pry bar slot at about the 11:00 position on your first picture. The white-painted bead ring will have a couple of relieved areas that will allow the ring to be pried upwards and slid sideways off the main part of the wheel once the tire is deflated and pushed or hammered away from the bead rings. That outer ring does not have a split anywhere, nor does the wheel. That type of 2-piece wheel is very uncommon with 20" tires. The 18" wheels used on my 1959 1-ton flatbed had that style of lock ring. The locking lip on that type of wheel is VERY shallow, and it's susceptible to rust and/or damage while removing/installing the tires.
Jerry

Looks like a standard 3 piece wheel to me, they are simple to work on, 3B gave you good advice.

That is about the easiest & safest wheel to work on. You really need a good tire hammer to loosen the beads. The ring is like a giant snap ring. After you pry it out the large ring will come out after you break it loose from the bead.
George

I agree- - - -the "close-up" picture finally provided enough detail to show the narrow locking ring that allows the single-piece outer bead ring to be removed once the tire is deflated and the outer ring is driven down a little to expose the lock ring. Previous pics just didn't provide enough detail. That type of wheel is very safe when it's assembled and inflated properly. Use an inflation cage, or wrap a piece of heavy chain through the hand holes and around the tire, and use a long clip-on inflating hose with a hand valve to slowly inflate the tire while standing a safe distance away.
Jerry

Looks like a standard 3 piece wheel to me too. Do not use a hammer on the steel parts, you will damage them. Otherwise not too tough. Use a cage or wrap a chain through the rim and around the tire to contain any explosion when inflating. Inflate in small steps and deflate between inflation steps, go up in 10 psi steps, down to near zero, then add up another 10. Nobody near.