The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Re-starting the timing gear project, need advice

So, after the bomb has sat for a year, I'm finally starting the repairs. My timing gear stripped last year, and now it's time to get it back on the road. I got some good suggestions at the time, but my mind is pretty feeble these days, so I'd like to hear once again any ideas, suggestions of what is good and what's not, and what's worked for you all and what to avoid.

I looked up a message Hotrod Lincoln sent me at the time, and his advice is always good. A friend of mine has a 235 out of his '54 (mine is a 56 in my '51), and suggested we put that engine in the truck and rebuild mine on the stand, although I'm still debating on whether to just change out the gears, cam and possibly rods if they were damaged. The plan as of now is to get the truck over to Scott's place and decide once we get it there.

Hotrod suggested Sealed Power or Elgin parts, but I've heard a lot of guys say they got their timing parts from NAPA. I checked Rock Auto, and saw Sealed Power parts, then when I put them in the cart, it says they're out of stock and took my parts out of the cart for me. So I don't know what the deal is with sealed power/rock auto, but that's what I ran into. Hotrod also suggested a cam for a 261 as a better choice, but I'm not sure whether that's for just the cam or the gears, lifters and rods too. (waiting for a message back from HL). Anyway, thanks for any and all suggestions and stories about your efforts to get this done. Just to make clear, I've never attempted this repair, so I'm as ignorant as they come. Nothing you say will be unneeded. Thanks in advance, Lee

Although I've swapped a few timing gears "in the frame", the process isn't easy, and unless you're pretty experienced at it, there can be some pretty serious difficulties. One in particular is the possibility of dislodging the plug at the back of the block behind the cam while driving the new gear onto the cam and creating a massive oil leak. It's also necessary to do a detailed check for bent valves before trying to swap the gears, because it's possible for one or more pistons to contact the intake valves after the gear strips and the cam quits turning. Doing a cylinder leak check would be my first project to see if the head has to come off for valve repair. Start by removing the rocker arms, or at least loosening all the valve adjusters so the valves stay closed, then put air pressure into the cylinders and listen for leaks at the carburetor. The exhaust valves are in a position where the pistons can't hit them, so don't worry about them- - - -just be sure all the valves are closed. At some point, swapping engines begins to look pretty appealing, so you can get the disabled one on a stand and do the job right.

Two cams are possible for an upgrade if you choose, the Elgin E-293S, or the Melling CCS-1. The Melling has a little more radical timing and lift than the Elgin, which is pretty much a clone of the cam that was used in the 261 truck engine and the 54-55 6 cylinder Corvette. For another source for the timing gear set, try contacting Nashville Engine Parts Warehouse. (1-800-345-1044) Talk to Jackie, and tell him Jerry who used to teach auto mechanics at McGavock High School recommended him. I've been buying parts from him for over 40 years. He's good at his business! He even found a head gasket set for a 503 GMC engine a while back- - - -in Canada! Keep in touch!
Jerry

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