Hello, how should the thermostaic spring works? My knowledge is, the spring should keep the flap closed if the engine is not warm and should the flap open, if the engine is warm. And now my question: If I heat the spring, the spring turns and the spring leaves the the anchor pin. Is this normal or should spring rake to the anchor pin? An another question, the springs they are offered have 5 coils, the spring that was me sold have 9 coils and is ver smart. Which one is the better one? Ask Wolfgang
Hello Wolfgang, Please see the attached images. I hope you can see them ok. This is how the spring should be installed. I do not know if the difference of 9 coils will make any difference. You can use different springs. Some person said here a couple of years ago the spring for the Jeep would work and was much less expensive. Please tell us if you have any questions.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
An interesting item in that part of the shop manual says to free it up with kerosene mixed with a little baking soda. Homebrew recipe for penetrating oil??
Last edited by klhansen; 06/12/20206:27 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
As far as the spring leaving the pin once heated is concerned, it is not a problem as long as the valve shaft is free. The exhaust flow from the engine will push the valve fully into the warmed up position. All the spring is for is to keep the valve in the cold engine position until the engine warms up.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Any ideas on what to do to keep the spring from coming/falling out of the shaft?
I installed a 1954 Corvette exhaust manifold on my rebuild and the spring I bought keeps falling out. Luckily I have found it each time and didn't loose it out on the streets of Dallas!
Any ideas on what to do to keep the spring from coming/falling out of the shaft?
I installed a 1954 Corvette exhaust manifold on my rebuild and the spring I bought keeps falling out. Luckily I have found it each time and didn't loose it out on the streets of Dallas!
That '54 Corvette exhaust manifold will never work on whatever engine you put it on, sadly. If you send me a PM with your mailing address, I will provide my address and send you money for shipping it to me... On a slightly more serious note, I would make sure that you have the correct spring. Does it look like the slot which the spring goes in has been spread? I would not try to spread nor mash the slot whatsoever. In your case, you would be better off making a shim to take up the slack. Stainless steel or copper would hold up fine in that environment. Carl
Last edited by 52Carl; 06/14/20201:12 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
That '54 Corvette exhaust manifold will never work on whatever engine you put it on, sadly. If you send me a PM with your mailing address, I will provide my address and send you money for shipping it to me... On a slightly more serious note, I would make sure that you have the correct spring. Does it look like the slot which the spring goes in has been spread? I would not try to spread nor mash the slot whatsoever. In your case, you would be better off making a shim to take up the slack. Stainless steel or copper would hold up fine in that environment. Carl
I may have been born at night, but it wasn't last night Carl! LOL!
I got the spring from ChevyDuty I believe. Trying to find places for 1953-1954 Corvette parts is pretty hard. I'll try shimming it and see if that works.
Hello, and another question, how must the weight sit that sits on the shaft, which is controlled by the spring. Has someone a picture, that show the position of the weight, when the flap is closed or open, if the engine is cold. Ask Wolfgang
Wolfgang, the Shop Manual (p. 6-4) has a drawing of the Heat Riser Operation. When the flapper valve is in the closed position, routing exhasut gases up under the intake manifold, the counter weight is horizontal. As the spring heats, the counter weight drops toward the engine, going more vertical.
Please see the attached image. The weight will look like this when it is cold. There will be spring pressure against it at this point. The weight rotates counter-clockwise (as the arrow shows) when the engine is at normal running temperature.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end