We just brought my 'new' 46 Chevy pickup home yesterday. It's my first time restoring a vehicle and I would love input on preserving what paint he has left without making the surface rust darker/shiny.
I've had Linseed Oil recommended a few times as well as Ankor Wax (also recommended for the PTO). Edited to add that I'm in the US, and I'm not sure I can get Ankor Wax... Recommendations of a US equivalent would be greatly appreciated.
I'll attach a picture of Bruno's current state, as well as a picture of what I'm hoping for (checkmark on the door) and what I'm wanting to avoid (X on the door).
Last edited by 46 Chevy Mom; 06/08/20209:35 AM. Reason: added information
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
Just wash it. It took 73 years to get like that so the less you do to it, the better it'll be unless you're going to do frame off restoration and give it all new paint.
If you don't want to wash with soap and water, use a detail spray and a micro fibre cloth.
You'd be surprised how shiny the paint will get by just washing it.
Looks like a difference in the sheen of the clear coat that they used in the different pics. Equate it to house paint. Flat is not as shiny as satin which is not as shiny as high gloss The blue patina truck looks like a low gloss finish while the white truck looks like some type of high gloss. There are also matte finishes.
"it's only old if you can't find a use for it; otherwise it's cool and i'll use it."
My fenders had some surface rust 28 years ago so I gave them a "temporary" coat of Rustoleum. Other spots that popped up rusty were "treated" with gray primer but that doesn't seal out water so I've switched to flat gray spray enamel.
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
I’d use some Turtle Wax rubbing compound first followed with an application of the same brand old school paste wax. You’ll be surprised how nice that dark blue paint turns out.
Nice truck by the way.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I agree with Chuck. I'm fairly new to owning something that I want to remain with its original patina. I painter buddy told me, "just don't leave it outside and wax it occasionally". So, I got a cheap buffer from Harbor freight and some good old paste wax and went to it. I wax the whole truck, surface rust too. I am pleased with the results.
~ Billy Old Dominion Stovebolt Society: Exotic Animal Division 1946 Chevrolet Cab Over Engine | In the Gallery | Video | More pictures 1959 GMC 860 | Pictures 1950 Chevrolet 3800 | Pictures I've got a trailer and I'm not afraid to use it!
In my opinion patina SUCKS. What it says to me is one has an old ride that has gone to pot and they don't think enough of it to fix it right because they are too lazy, too broke, too cheap, or too inept to do one right. Did your 1951 3100 have rust patches all over it in 1951; if not then you are preserving a bogus condition. As paint work goes higher and higher I understand the situation but why not just say you don't want to spend that much money on a junk heap rather than being like the phonies that pretend to like modern art. We are requested to do these abortions more frequently but I always keep an airline barf bag folded up in my pocket.
... but I always keep an airline barf bag folded up in my pocket.
Tell us how you really feel about patina, Evan.
BTW, I'm probably in your corner on that patina thing. I've seen a few faux patina jobs that were just WRONG!
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
So you don't like patina, that is your opinion and does not help the original question. I am keen for helpful answers.
For some of us there may be a reason to keep patina, or the history of the truck. For me, I have a truck that I got from my father. I have no idea how it looked in 1941 when it was built, I was not there and would only be imagining. I do know how it looked in 1974 when Dad got it. I even remember how it looked in 1977 when I started driving it. As it has deteriorated little since then because it was kept in a shed I would like to keep the patina. It is not for anyone else's benefit but mine only, because I spent many hours as a kid in that truck. That is what my memories are, not the shinny looking thing that was made in 1941. It may not have been that shiny for all I know.
This may even seem strange that I am going to leave a dent in the mudguard and a crease in the bumper that was not repaired properly. I have included an attachment that explains how the dent got there.I will even leave the scratched name and service number in the dash that Private Shepherd presumably did sometime in the early 40's after the truck left the factory.
So I am keen to here of ways to protect an old truck from deteriorating so I can enjoy it for me. I don't wan't fake paint or clear coat. For those who have no interest in this topic or nothing positive to add please don't try and push your opinion.
Reidy, we welcome the various opinions on most any subject, so, your request for no comments on your “opinion” is likely to be ignored. Don’t take it personal. Evan’s opinion was a bit harsh but it is how he feels. Personally I can take them either way. The concourse restoration crowd has some beautiful trucks. The rusty but shiny group has some nice looking stuff and the rat rod congregation can’t be faulted for their creative nature. All are cool in their own way. In your case you like the history on the truck so by all means keep it as is. Maintain it, drive it and appreciate it for what it is.
Last edited by Justhorsenround; 07/06/202012:23 PM.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Reidy My opinion was just that. Your description of the history of the truck would want me to maintain it in it's current condition as well. It's like a museum piece. My experience with the faux patina rigs is that someone was trying to make a new paint job look "old" and failed miserably. One truck I saw had bullet holes in the tailgate and with the two color "patina" job, had the depressed portion of the bullet holes the color of the top coat instead of having rust around them. Total failure. Enjoy your truck the way you want it.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
I'm sure that much of my distaste for the patch and make do approach on old rides is that I don't have to wonder what they were like back in the 50's because I was DRIVING them in the 50s. The column shift was precise, the steering was smooth and easy, the brakes worked without pulling or extreme pedal effort, even the doors and latches fit and worked well. This is MY memories of them so that's what I want to see in a finished one along with a 1950's appearance. Contrary to what many think not all rides that come in the door leave as hot rods.
I am by no means a expert on any of the subjects on this forum. Just completed my first "restore" on a 37 gc. Always wanted to do a truck so thought I better get going. I didn't care about the money, I wanted it to look original and I have always liked RUST . Did a frame off, powder coated frame, new rear, 57 235 gone through, S 10 5 speed front disc brakes,and went through everything on the bottom. Cleaned with dawn soap and vinegar and coated with Penotrol. Very few rust holes, lots of original paint and patina. Still have to put Penotrol on back fenders, waiting for darker rust. I love it and have lots of compliments. Do what you want, it's your truck. Bill
Here's my take. I feel strongly both ways. I have one of each. A "pretty boy" truck, and another one which is what you call an old restoration with pimples, checked paint, a few dents, etc. No matter which one I take to a car show, people swarm around each one equally. I had a guy comment to me about the rugged looking one. He said, "I don't want one of those "pretty boy" trucks. I want one just like this one!" The only difference between the two trucks in my eyes is the $25,000 spent on one of them, compared to the $25 spent on the other one.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
For those that want nice paint I am all for it. For those that want to show off a high class paint job or ask a question on how to achieve it, start a post and get some replies. I for one will be having a read and learning. I would find it equally frustrating if someone had a post on how to get show winning paint and another poster wanted to share there opinion on how to protect patina.
Personally I like both looks but for the purpose of this post can you share your tips for maintaining old and weather paint to protect it for as long as practical. If you have tried the linseed oil or another technique let us know how it turned out. The YouTube videos shows what it looks like ten seconds after completion but not what it is like after a two hour drive. Is there a wax that seems to last well and protect the finish that does not look like the truck has just been rubbed down with baby oil.
Take a 30, 60 or even 80 year old vehicle and it's always the same question...
Getting the patina takes time... the more time it takes, the more patina you get... so are you asking how to stop time? if so, at what age? 40 years? 45 perhaps? 62 years?
Someone buys a vehicle at any old age and they like the Patina and somehow think "this is the exact time to stop that patina!"... really?!?
It's an oxymoron.
Patina is patina... it's taken how many years to look like that... how do you do expect to stop it without it looking like you've intervened?? Can't happen!!
