Hi, I recently purchased this truck and it came with a new bed with wood in a crate. I have no old bed to use as a template. bed sides are now connected to the front piece. the wood slats are down and now I have a couple questions. Without a template what space should I leave between the cab and bed? The wood is about 1/8th of an inch shorter width wise than the cross members, when I drill the sides into the wood do you need to make the holes larger to allow for expansion and contraction of the wood? thanks, Nils
Go to Mar-K’s website. Diagrams and specifications there.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Great info on Mar-k's site. I included a photo of where we are at as of this morning. As I was just asking Harold is the spacing between cab and bed just cosmetic? If you have a 42-46 please measure . Just want it to look right. thanks
So the bed is mostly together. I have 2 questions that I did not find the answers to. The blocks at the back of the bed have 2 screw holes going into the bed sides. There are also 2 holes in the frame a couple inches apart at the back. Which of the 2 holes at the back of the frame do I use and the blocks do not touch the sides in either? 1/4 inch gap on both sides? And second, did you weld the tail cross member to the sides at the very back just under tailgate? thanks, Nils
Nils The bed assembly instructions offered by Harold are extremely helpful in assembling these beds. If, by chance you still need a copy send me a PM with your email address and I will also try sending you a copy.
The bed pieces are assembled without any welding. A variety of length bolts with companion washers and nuts are used. As to the block holes questions, I will have to check my truck. Off hand, I don’t recall the hole configuration described.
I notice in your photo, that you are assembling this bed in a more challenging way than I experienced. If the bed sides and ends are assembled on the floor, then lifted onto saw horses the bed boards can be installed with easier access to all the fastener holes. Once all that is completed, two people can easily slide the bed onto the chassis and align the cross members etc. Using long tapered drifts will help align the corresponding bolt holes through the cross members or wood blocks.
The above, here, may not necessarily apply if something other than a Mar-K bed kit is being used.
So the bed is mostly together. I have 2 questions that I did not find the answers to. The blocks at the back of the bed have 2 screw holes going into the bedsides. There are also 2 holes in the frame a couple of inches apart at the back. Which of the 2 holes at the back of the frame do I use and the blocks do not touch the sides in either? 1/4 inch gap on both sides? And second, did you weld the tail cross member to the sides at the very back just under tailgate?
The blocks at the back of the bed have 2 screw holes going into the bedsides. Correct, bolt the block to the bedside, chamfered edge fits in the lip of bedside There are also 2 holes in the frame a couple of inches apart at the back. Which of the 2 holes at the back of the frame do I use and the blocks do not touch the sides in either? The block sits over the back hole and the long bed mounting bolt goes through the floorboard, then the block, then the frame and bumper bracket. See photo.1/4 inch gap on both sides? If this is the case you have something out of sync. This is why most people assemble the bed off the vehicle and then lift it in place. And second, did you weld the tail cross member to the sides at the very back just under tailgate? There is no welding involved in assembling the bed. You have asked several times about the distance from the cab. The frame is drilled to accept the bed mounting bolts in only one way. You cannot adjust the bed unless you drill new holes and that is not recommended. One photo shows the bed mounting bolt that goes through the woodblock to frame. Another shows the bolts holding the woodblock to the bedside. Another shows the mounting bolt coming from the bed floor through the block through the frame. The wire is a ground from fame to bedside (my idea) I hope this answers your questions. Harold
Hi Guys, So other than raking my back on a bed corner it has gone well. It is not a Mar-K bed, not sure where he got it from but it had no holes drilled so I had to line everything up with the frame. It is coming together but I have 2 issues that I am stuck with. Picture one is just to show the progress. Picture two shows the rear bolt hole to go thru the block into the frame. It is a straight shot from that hole to the back frame hole. The block rests nicely against the side and is ready for those bolts. My issue is that it is too close to the side to use a washer. Once painted it will just scratch up the side wall. If I have really screwed it up I can make new wood pieces. I am a woodworker just not a mechanic:). The last picture shows how the bolts that go straight to the frame are just off from the edge of a board on both sides? It is a straight line from the hole in the metal to the frame hole. Any assistance on how to sort these? Otherwise I just need finish attaching the wood and it is on to fenders. Appreciate the feedback. thanks, Nils
Hi, I fixed the blocks in the back by re-drilling the blocks. The original holes just were not correct(may have been done by the guy I bought it from). So that is all set with all bolts on and tight. I am thinking of using a hex bolt to hold the cross member to the frame and then bolt the wood to the cross member at a better location. should be good, sorry about the panic earlier:). Many more holes to drill and then disassemble for paint.
Hi, So bed is finished and now it is onto fenders, runningboards and rear splash guard. There seems to be little info on the splash guards. Is there an order to put these together and how do the splash guards go in? WHat do they bolt to? In opening the boxes yesterday, the running boards the previous owner bought are fiberglass so not sure if that complicates or makes easier. There are no holes in the bed so any advice on how to line it up will be helpful. thanks, Nils
Hi, So bed is finished and now it is onto fenders, runningboards and rear splash guard. There seems to be little info on the splash guards. Is there an order to put these together and how do the splash guards go in? WHat do they bolt to? In opening the boxes yesterday, the running boards the previous owner bought are fiberglass so not sure if that complicates or makes easier. There are no holes in the bed so any advice on how to line up the fender will be helpful. thanks, Nils
Please start a new thread in Paint & Body since you are no longer working on your “Finished bed”. Fender and splash guard discussions should go there. Thanks.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
