The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Where to begin?

Hello, so I recently bought a 54 3100 off of my uncle that he had sitting for roughly 47 years. I am a complete beginner who hasn't done anything like this before. It hasn't ran in that amount of time. The alternator, starter, and little black box om the driver side of thw firewall are off the truck. It looks like he had them rebuilt by a shop. The truck is also missing the oil cap. Everyone on here has been telling me to get it to move under it's own power then worry about the body and frame work and cosmetic repairs. Just trying to find a solid starting point after I put the starter, alternator, and box back on?

Thanks y'all, you've been super helpful and goodluck!

“Little black box”, is the voltage regulator. If it has an alternator make sure the box is not for the original generator.🛠

Was there a battery?
6v or 12v?

As far as the battery there was not one. I'll see if I can ask him and find out. As far as the alternator it was in a box sitting on the seat with the starter and voltage regulator. So I'm thinking it needs to be put back on with use of that alternator. I haven't got to test the motor yet, with the holiday work has been a mess... The goal is to restore it and have an old cruising truck for when I have children we can throw rods in the back and go for a ride to the fishing hole! As far as pictures, let me go get a bunch of good ones.

I'm not sure, it may be a generator? I apologize I'm new to all this! I'll get a picture of that as well!

To answer "where to begin", that's a good question. We would be able to answer that question if we know the overall condition of the truck and the goal of the truck, I.E. driver, hot rod, refurbish, restoration level. The first order is to take overall stock of the condition and completeness of the truck. If we had some good pics of the truck inside and out and engine bay.we could advise.

Is necessary to get it moving around the area to work on it? or do you just want to see if it starts?

WARNING:
After sitting 47 years, your restart is way out of the ordinary and will take many special precautions before turning that motor with a starter. Have you determined that the motor will turn over by hand and not frozen? Do this in neutral with spark plugs removed. What else do you see that is missing? If you have very limited experience, it is especially important to move carefully with advice from members here. Very nice you have received a "family truck", should be fun.


If you need electrical help/wiring help, give us a good look at the alternator and any numbers on it. Be advised that you can start the truck WITHOUT wiring the alternator and black box, just to see it start. It has nothing to do with the ignition system. We can give you instruction for starting.
Please answer Tim's question about 6V or 12V.

Here come a bunch of photos guys

And more

More

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Very nice. Better condition than I thought it would be. Must have been stored inside. You are showing a generator, not and alternator. I believe you still have a 6V system. Your truck looks very original and has a greater head start than most. Depending on your goal and budget, you can drive it as is basically or go all the way. No use telling you a whole bunch of info until you let us know what you have in mind. 1954 is a good year. tclederman is a good source....and lots of AD experts here.

Now that I see it and it's inside and standing on it's own 4 feet, I would just have to start it. So the beginning list before start up is:
Phase I
1. See if motor will rotate, hand rock it in 2nd or... squeeze the belts tight, in neutral, and turn fan. (plugs out).
2. Drain oil. Observe color. Refill and change any oil filters.
3. New points, condenser, rotor, plugs and plug wires.
4. You won't be hooked up to, or using, the gas tank when live fire happens later on.
5. Can you rebuild a carb or have anyone to help with that? A 47 year old carb has to be cleaned and rebuilt

After phase one items check out, we can help with enough wiring to try start and tell you how to install temp fuel supply. Phase 2 will include turning over with starter with plugs out.
Others will have additions to a 47 year restart procedure. It is a long time and take a little extra precaution. Rat nesting, condensation corrosion inside valve cover or deeper, motor dry out, dried deteriorating gaskets and hoses are in play after 47 years. WOW! that's a long time.

As mentioned before the end goal is a restored original truck. Just wanting a truck to put along over to shows in or when I have children take them for a slow ride to the fishing hole. Pretty sure I would get pulled over if i took it out like that no? It sat inside on a dirt floor until i brought it to my place. There are 2 holes in the frame that I've noticed so far at the back end of the driver rear fender. Thank you for the help with the parts. Much appreciated! What do you mean by new points?

bartamos has given you good and prudent advice.

I have owned three 1954 trucks and I still own two.
Here is my website: http://www.1954advance-design.com

I prefer to keep my trucks close to the specs that GM gave them. If you are planning to keep as original, let us know.

However, it is your truck - do what you like.

If you want to ID your engine (they often got changed over the years) find and post the ID code that is stamped into the block in the ledge at the rear of the distributor.

But absolutely! I can't wait until she's up and running!

Tc I will get a picture of that ID code tomorrow when I get home! Thank you!

Where do you live in PA?

Send me a Private Message, if you do not want to post the closest city in this “open” forum.

You have a great start with an unmolested truck...everything on this truck can be either repaired or replaced with new/reproduction. Having a family piece makes it that much more special!

Mike B

Points are inside the distributor. They help create the spark. Get an Assembly manual. Shop manual is online. With what you want to do, reading and studying is a must. Read the whole shop manual. Read Tim's entire website and all it's links, charts, parts list and manuals. He has done a lot of work to present that info. He has 1954's so he will know everything. Learn about the distributor and tune ups.
You may be as green as your truck, so get educated with the basics because you have a lot of things to do over the next few years to get it to restored quality. Maybe not Barrett Jackson but really nice.

Everything you need is available from half a dozen vendors.....and Rockauto and local auto parts.

Eventually you will have to clear out a lot of floor space and shelf space, take pics and bag and tag every nut, bolt and parts.
You will be rebuilding:
1. Fuel system from tank to carb
2. Entire brake system
3. Wiring
4. Cooling system
5. Body work/rust repair
6. Bed
7. Much misc, wipers, heater, steering, shocks, gauges, clutch, wheel bearings, switches, generator, starter, fuel and oil pumps............

Hundreds of guys on here have done all of it, some have even been instructors and mechanics. We all started with no knowledge. Albeit at all ages.

Can you explain or show what you mean about "holes in frame"?

A main piece of advice: do not buy a bunch of parts ahead of time. That is not productive. Work is productive. Buy them as you proceed to each system. It's fun to order and open the packages, but they sit a loooooong time. Parts get improved and methods develop and life changes.

Depending on what you are going to do yourself, there are tools you need to be productive. Some are not cheap.

Pretty cool truck.

Nice truck, You are just like me-starting a first time project. My '37 1/2 ton sat on blocks in a barn for 50 years so we're about even.
One thing I did was pull the spark plugs and dump tranny fluid down the cylinders. I let that sit for a couple months while I tinkered with
other stuff then got underneath and turned the flywheel by hand. I changed the oil, pulled the distributor and stuck a screwdriver in a
drill to spin the oil pump and prime the system. If you don't want to have to pull the oil pan to fish out the screwdriver like I did, be
sure it's firmly in the drill chuck. (Live and learn).
Not knowing if it was going to run anyway I put a brass brush in a Dremel tool and polished the contacts in the distributor cap.
While I had the distributor out I polished the points and cleaned and gapped the plugs. After replacing the fuel tank and lines I
rebuilt the fuel pump and carb and by golly I got it fired up! Now that you know if the engine is going to run (or not) you can decide
what's next.
Good luck

It’s obvious you are a turn the key and go kind of guy. Your lack of knowledge about mechanical stuff may be to your advantage. As bartamos said read everything you can find on old Chevy inline sixes. They are relatively easy to work on and fortunately take American tools. We’re here to help and forgive some of us old guys if we come off a bit grouchy from time to time. As I mentioned in another post read the Tech Tips section in the Menu Bar at the top of the page. Many of your questions will be answered there.🛠

Jim Carter truck parts has a tech article about 1954 GM trucks
1954 GM Transition Year

In 1954 and 1955 First series GM Chevrolet built basically a one off year truck.
1954 trucks were sold from September of 1953 to August 1954
1955 First series trucks were sold from September of 1954 to March of 1955

1954 and 1955 First series trucks are virtually the same truck.
There were a few differences between the two trucks, like the hood side emblems and the
1955 First series 1/2 ton truck used a open propeller shaft were as the 1954 1/2 ton truck used a enclosed torque tube.

1954 was the the 1st year GM used a full windshield as oppose to a split windshield.
1954 GM redesigned the dash and instrument gauges and front grill.
1954 was the 1st year GM offered a turn signal cup assembly under the steering column as opposed to the clamp on turn signal type.
1954 was the 1st year GM offered a electric windshield wiper motor as opposed to vacuum powered wiper motor.
1954 was the 1st year Chevrolet offered the Hydra-Matic Automatic transmission for their trucks.

Keeping it original will help it hold its value.
Its sad to see a rare one off year truck customized.
A 1954 truck stands out on its own because its body style was only built for a year and a half.

More info at link below
The Advance Design Spotting Guide

The first thing I would do is check your title to see what the VIN number says.
Some states used the ESN (engine serial number) on the title and some states used the VSN (vehicle serial number) on the title.
(VSN stamped on plate, located on drivers side door hinge pillar)
If they used the ESN on the title and they replaced the engine, the number on the title might not jive.
Unit Serial Number Locations

I second the motion of putting transmission fluid in the cylinders and letting that soak in there.
I'm told there are also plenty of videos on YouTube explaining such things as installing and setting points, etc. (I say I'm told that--haven't looked myself, as I already know how to do it.) But as mentioned, do your homework and check out all the different forums on this site. Plenty of good info here and guys willing to help.

Wow -- All good advice above. But let me second the one about our Tech Tips library here on Stovebolt.com We have a lot of info you will find useful.

Particularly, you might want to check out the article on starting a long-dormant engine

Glad to have you with us! You have a lot of reading to do Ask questions! Ask more questions!

And one day, you'll be the one answering questions around here

Regards,
John

Seriously thank you guys for all the info and resources! I decodes the title already. 54 3100 came out of baltimore. I still need to check the block as mentioned. However I do believe it will match up. My uncle had said it was all original with original miles. I'm sure there will be a million more questions. Again I thank all of you for your knowledge.

Most of us would love to start with something that nice. The Chevy orange motor looks like it is out of a 55.2 through 63 Chevrolet car or truck. I would assume that It has a 12 volt system and your starter will have an aluminum oval tag with a red stripe, it should say 12V. As far as making sure engine will turn over with only minor or no damage to the rings and cylinder walls take spark plugs out and use auto transmission oil and Blaster 80/20 mix. Marvel oil or Kroil oil at same mix. fill to top and put spark plugs in a few turns. Let set for one to two weeks then turn just a little, no more than 10 degrees. Repeat in a few days. Looks like the truck has been kept inside so may not have much problem. Patience, patience. Oh Eisenhart1992, you have come to the correct site these guys know so much and are so willing to help. Welcome and stay in touch. I'm a new guy too. Oh from the picture of your carburetor it looks like you have a Rochester model BC. Doc

Forgot to mention- turn the engine over without the spark plugs in to force the transmission fluid out
before you try to start it.

Hey y'all, just ran down some of the list in the tech tips tonight. I'm missing the mounting hardware for the generator and the starter. Pulled the valve cover and since the oil cap had been off for lord knows how long there was a mouse nest. Cleaned all that out really good. Springs, push rods and everything don't look bad but I did notice a strange almost breather like line(reference photo 1). Put Marvel down in the cylinders awhile to let that sit and free everything up. Popped the distributor cap and the point, that could use refinishing. My uncle had brought up something along the lines of a new 12v system that looks just like the stock 6v. So I may go that route instead of dealing with the points? What do y'all think? Last but not least I got the stamp off the motor behind the distributor for y'all to check out( reference photo 2). I know someone has brought up the concern of the orange motor being from a 55.1 instead of the original. I did happen to notice on the the side of the valve cover the orange is peeling and there is blue underneath?

Have a great night y'all!
Justin

Engine code T805HE

T = Tonawanda Engine Plant
8 = Month (August)
05 = Day
HE = 1957 235 with a HD Clutch from a 3000 & 4000 series truck

Changing the truck to 12v won't make the points go away. To see what voltage the truck is now, look at the headlights and see if they are marked 12V, if they are not marked on the glass then you're still 6V.

Mike B

What Mike B said. You need to run some Marvel and Blaster around you valve guides. Rodent pee will rust your guides and can ever get into cylinders. I have seen this many times, even crawl up an open or rusted out tailpipe into an exhaust port. If the muffler and exhaust system looks good you should be ok. Good barn finds are what we all hope for. What '37 barn find said on page three gave me a real laugh, did the screw driver thing myself once. DOC

Already got marvel down in the cyclinders, gonna let that sit while we tinker with some other stuff. Uncle us coming up today gonna mess with some stuff. Do any of y'all know much about the shifter on the column beint messed up? The linkage will shift manual under the hood but the shifter is stuck and don't want to move?

I have never figured out how to deal with a worn 47-55st 3-speed "shift box".

However, my ignorant suggestion is to carefully take apart the box: being careful to keep ALL parts/shims/etc in order.

Carefully, clean everything (keeping everything in order and in correct orientation).

Put the assembly together, very carefully, coating everything with very little chassis grease.
Fill the "shift box" with chassis grease (I think that is the correct lubricant - some will confirm/correct this).

Hold your breath, say a prayer, and maybe it will smoothly shift (and not get "locked-up" when shifting).

You lose nothing by trying this suggestion.

A few decades ago, I bought a rebuilt unit from Jim Carter Truck Parts - it looked terrible (amateurish) and worked terribly.

I changed over to an SM420 4-speed floor-shifter. I still would rather have the three speed.

Please let us now how this proceeds.

To add to tclederman, before you take the shift box lid off, make sure that the rubber grommets on the shift arms which are attached to the shift box are sound. Deteriorated grommets can cause the transmission to shift into two gears at once which will lock it up. Not a big deal, just annoying and easy to fix with new grommets.
Crawl under the truck and manually put both transmission shift arms in the center position (that is neutral).
Now take a look at the shift arms at the shift box. If they are not both in the center position (neutral), adjust the shift rod ends until they are.
Hopefully the new grommets and shift rod adjustments will fix your problem. If not, get back to us and we'll walk you through what to look for inside of the shift box.

You could disconnect the linkage rods at the steering column by the firewall.
Then see if it shifts, if it shifts with the linkage rods disconnected, the problem could be the linkage rods needs to be adjusted.
1954 Chevrolet shop manual
Steering Column Gearshift Adjustment

There are two levers on the transmission, one lever is for 1st and reverse gears and one lever is for 2nd and 3rd.
Each lever has three positions:
1st, neutral, reverse
2nd , neutral, 3rd

In order to shift, one of the two levers needs to be in neutral.

If you can't shift with rods disconnected the the problem could be in the Steering Column Gearshift control mechanism.

1929 - 1954 Master Parts and Accessories Catalog
1948-54 Pass., Comm., Steering Column Gearshift

What a wonderful "working man's" truck.
Thanks for sharing the pictures.
Rust in all the right places for the east coast.
A badge of honor as it is.

Attached file is a decent (not worn out) shift box cleaned up without any lube.
Search for "Column Shifter" in the forums about the wear issues.
When it jams, you have to get under the truck and manually move the transmission arms to neutral.
Then you play with the shifter box linkage to get it go back into position.
Occasionally you can find a kit "gear shift neutralizer" for sale.
This will work for a time but it will also wear out.
Basically the column shifter has to be treated gently so you can't sprint out quickly like in today's traffic.
I converted mine to floor shift with a used Hurst 3-speed shifter and made my own stick to appear original.
One less issue to deal with.

It looks like you've already lubed the door and hood hinges.
If you try to force a rusted hinge it will warp the surrounding body metal and make the alignment look awful.

So the grommets are pretty beat up, didn't get to tinker with it much more this weekend. I'll probably mess with it some more this week. I did however run into some issues. So as I had stated before he had removed the starter, generator, and voltage regulator. He didn't have the mounting hardware for them( what i believe to be 3 bolts?) Do any of y'all know where to get replacements or the information on them as far as stud size, thread type and the whole nine? Thanks Ladies and gents enjoy the rest of your weekend!

There are bronze bushings available at many auto parts stores which are the exact size of the original rubber grommets. I believe that they are actually door hinge bushings. They will last for ever. Hopefully, someone on this site may be along soon with a part number for you.