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Joined: Oct 2019
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Question. I noticed that ignition to my 55’ first time series Chevy truck has 3 positions when turning the key. I wanted to make sure I am tracking the positions. I first believed that from left to right 11’ o’clock was acc, 12 o’clock is off and 1 o’clock was on. But looking all over the web, I couldn’t find anything for a 54/55 first series ignition. From what i have seen for older cars is the following positions:

11 o'clock position: ignition is off and locked when key is removed.
12 o'clock position: ignition on and key can be removed. Ignition can also be turned to the 1 o'clock off position without key.
1 o'clock position: ignition off, no key required to turn ignition back to 12 o'clock on position.
The key is required to turn to the 11 o'clock to turn ignition off and lock the ignition. People were apparently more trusting back then and only locked the ignition if they felt a need too.

Is this accurate for a 54/55 first series. I placed the power in wire on the middle ignition terminal. Thanks in advance for your help

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Sir Searchalot
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Sounds like you have an earlier switch or a car switch or ? Click

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To add to the info from Jim Carter's site that bartamos linked to, Chevy cars in 1954 (and I believe 1953) had the "keyless" feature, with lock, off, on, start positions. The only one that required a key was to get it to lock. The key could be removed in the on or off position. A '54 Chevy station wagon was one of the family cars I learned to drive in.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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Yes, your stock ignition switch should only have 2 positions: On and Off.

See section 12, sheet 4.02 of the factory assembly manual.


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My 49 3100 has the same ignition switch. I have read that the 1 o'clock position was used on the farm so the boss could take the key with him when he left the work site and the workers could still move the truck if necessary by turning it back to 12 o'clock. They could then turn it to 1 o'clock to save the battery. Sounded reasonable to me! bartamos link was very informative.

Last edited by Forty9; 05/26/2020 12:08 AM. Reason: More info

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The original 55 1st ignition switch is a OFF/ON switch.
It has three terminals on the back side.
One terminal is for power from the ammeter.
The other two terminals receive power when the key is switched ON.

Original 55 1st ignition switch
https://www.classicparts.com/1954-55-1st-Ignition-Switch-Original-Style/productinfo/53%2D407/

Lock Cylinder
https://www.classicparts.com/1947-66-Ignition-Switch-Cylinder-w_Key/productinfo/53%2D475/

More info in this THREAD

If you could provide some picture of the switch, front side and back side and how its mounted in the dash.
Would be helpful.

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Jorb. My ignition looks just like the one in your link. The area that I believe a light goes to, sits about 11 o’clock if you are looking at straight at the ignition when attached to the dash.

I have another question in regards to the Ammeter. I been reading some posts that you can still leave with 12v system. Others recommend not to use with 100 amp alternator, which I have, because it’s known to cause the ammeter to burn up. What are your recommendations? I would like to keep the original look as much as possible and not have aftermarket gauges hanging from my dash. Thanks again

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If you are talking about this LINK
I then think the switch you have is a car 3 position switch housing, with a non-teardrop lever lock cylinder.
How is the switch mounted in the dash?
Can you take some pictures of the switch?

I'm not to sure about the ammeter question, maybe someone else will chime in.

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Sir Searchalot
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Originally Posted by PanchoV
Jorb. My ignition looks just like the one in your link. The area that I believe a light goes to, sits about 11 o’clock if you are looking at straight at the ignition when attached to the dash.

I have another question in regards to the Ammeter. I been reading some posts that you can still leave with 12v system. Others recommend not to use with 100 amp alternator, which I have, because it’s known to cause the ammeter to burn up. What are your recommendations? I would like to keep the original look as much as possible and not have aftermarket gauges hanging from my dash. Thanks again

If the ammeter has a shunt, you can use it. It may "peg" and you won't know what it reads past "peg", but that won't hurt the meter. Why a 100 amp alternator on a 55.1?
Think about a simple voltmeter. You are already past original with the 12V and alternator. But who cares? Who needs a meter? Who looks at a meter. If your battery/lights start to go down, you check the system. If battery goes bad quick, the ammeter won't catch that anyway. If you want to keep the "ammeter look", leave it in there unconnected and wire up your alternator to a tell tale somewhere. Some people call that an idiot light. Pilots call them annunciators. GM calls them indicators. They get your attention better than a meter needle.

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Jorb, here is a picture of my ignition installed in the dash.

Bartamos, I went with a 100 amp alternator so I could add more accessories if needed such as an air ride system down the road. I didn’t see a shunt with my ammeter maybe because it was initially a 6v system and didn’t need it. Putting an idiot light might just have to work. Thanks for the rapid responses.
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Last edited by PanchoV; 05/26/2020 4:46 PM.
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PanchoV,

Can you take a picture of the back of the ignition switch?
I'm interested in what the housing and terminals look like.

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Jorb, here you go. Not at home to get picture of mine but looks just like this one
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That is the original 54-55 1st ignition switch housing.
There must be a different type of lock cylinder in there, that allows you 3 positions: OFF(locked) ON, OFF(unlocked).

Without the teardrop lever and no key in the cylinder, how can you move the cylinder from the 1 o'clock position to the 12 o'clock ON position?

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Sir Searchalot
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You have a car switch. If it is three position as you said, it's still just ON/Off. Two OFF's and one ON. BUT............something is weird, the switch was designed to be keyless from 12 to 1. No way to move this switch without a key. So something or someone is mixed up. Maybe me.

The term locked and unlocked has no meaning. If you need a key for any position, it's always locked. To function, as described, you need the lever handle or the 55/56 and up Chevy car, snout switch.

The confusion may be that you found a picture of a switch and posted it here and it's not the same part number you actually have. So be sure of what you actually have and where you got it and the part number. Don't assume.

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I inherited the truck from my father in law whose father was the original owner. Sounds like maybe he may have replaced the key cylinder at one point. I can’t move cylinder without key in it, so I will stick the 3 positions you both mentioned. Thanks for your help


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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