The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline rear E brake cables

replaced both my rear E brakes cables and now they slide forward when I step on the e brake pedal, I noticed the outer black housing is a little smaller in diameter than the old ones, any one else have this problem , I tightened the pass side down so much I cracked the frame bracket, also I had to un clamp and slide the gold bracket down about an inch

Not sure what "slide the gold bracket down an inch" means or how it helped. BUT....in the first picture, I think I would have ground down the two lips on the clamp so they don't touch as shown. This would allow a tighter clamping. Or split some tubing and make two spacers. I may have also tried to get the ferrule in the clamp.
Are you going to weld the crack? Hope so.

the cables are extending out just as far as the old ones, the crimp joint on the end would mean spreading the bracket a lot, when I called Classic Parts they said they never had an issue with them so I thought I would ask others, yes I'M going to replace or repair the broken bracket, the anodized cable end that's bolts to the backing plate and been crimped at the factory to far back towards the rear so the 2 halves didnt match up, I might pull the cable back off and wrap the housing in some thing to increase the outside diameter. or put a hose clamp on the back side of the bracket to keep it from sliding

Here's a recent discussion on a 1950 parking brake issue.

What year/model are you working on?

Just suggesting ideas. I don't have that year of truck. I was just looking at it mechanically. Sounds like you have good ideas.

seems like Im not the only one with a loose housing due to a smaller diameter cable housing, the old one had the steel sheath and the new one is just the black plastic

seems Im not the only one that has this problem of the smaller black plastic housing compared to the steel sheath older cable, I wonder if Chevrolet still sells them

They are the wrong cables for your truck. I ran across the same issue when I did mine and ended up bought a new set from LMC which were correct and have that long steel sleeve that your old cables had.The picture shows what it should look like. The original steel sleeve has a groove that the clamp bolt engages to prevent the cable sheath from sliding forward.

As I see this, many companies sell the same cable for $19.95. They all have photographs.......except LMC, which sells it for $19.95 also. For LMC to have a different Chinese cable that has the correct detent for the clamp bolt is not logical. If they do, let me know and I will buy them all up.

I suspect that Phil got his a long time ago or did not buy from LMC. I hope I am wrong and apologies to Phil. If LMC had an actual pic, we could tell.

The only other cable than Phil's is in the post linked by Andy. That guy had his cable made/purchased form a specialty company.

It would be nice for the archives of this post to have the Part Numbers purchased by woof and Phil.
It will be super nice if woof finds a correct cable. If I purchased a cable that was not per original and it slipped, I would surely get my money back, post haste.
Unless, of course, there is nothing else.
Rockauto has AC Delco and Raybestos..........neither seems to have the detent groove, if I am seeing straight. If those two companies don't have it, you wouldn't think anyone does, except special made per the HandyAndy post linked company. So that's where you may want to head. It's not going to be $19.95.

Of course, we all know that the AC Delco and the Raybestos is the same Chinese cable with a label slapped on it.

have not done business with LMC yet just Classic Parts,after the cable fiasco I ordered my master cly from the local parts house

I hate wrong parts sold as right. My favorite response from telephone answerers is, "they never had an issue with them." Of course not! A truck won't fit inside the cubicle where that desk jockey works.
As far as the clamps, you cannot spread them, nor tighten them beyond their designed parameters without breaking them.
Shipping the cables back will cost you more than what the refund will be. Call the vendor and tell them that and that you are not a happy camper.
Keep in mind, they don't make the parts. They just sell them. They need, and should welcome accurate feedback. Maybe they will just send your money back.

To be honest, I would make them work by doing what woof said, increasing the diameter or making my own "stops" with tiny cable clamps on either side or something. These are the kinds of fixes you can do while drinking beer.

FYI, I have never used an Ebrake in my life. You will ALWAYS them on when driving away.

Years ago I put a new cable on one side of my 1 Ton. It had the steel sleeve but the diameter was too small. I took a piece of steel tubing, cut a slit along one side and inserted it and then the cable. The cable sleeve had a slight taper. I then applied the brake very firmly and that cable was jammed into place. It has lasted thirteen years so far and I use the parking brake all the time.

woof359,

As pointed out, there are some work-arounds that will get your parking brake to function. I'm not sure how deep your pockets are so maybe using a work-around solution is the way to go. What's the condition of the entire brake system? I think you mentioned a new master cylinder. How are the wheel cylinders and brake lines and hoses? Whatever you do, do not try to save a few bucks on brakes.

Here's another option to consider: Bowtie Bits Antique Truck Parts. It appears these are steel wrapped cables.

Keep us posted, we're here to help.

Good luck,

I used the Classic part E brake cable #71-711...............out side diameter of the cable housing is to small.does any one make a replacement frame brackets because I broke one trying to tighten it down to far

I haven't seen those brackets available from our preferred vendors. You should place an ad in the 'Truck Parts Wanted' forum. Another source to check with is jerryschevyparts. He may be able to help you out.

I'm with Andy. Those brackets are not generally available new. You'll need to find a used one.

BTW, I believe they should clamp down on the metal spool at the end of the cable, not on the plastic coated shield. That may be why yours broke, trying to clamp down too far.

[on edit] Looks like I'm late to the discussion, and should have read the whole thread first. Anyway, I'm sure one of the suggestions will work.

Metal can be welded. Things can be fabed. We may have ideas if we saw good pics of where it is broken. The Stovebolt motto: Fixing stuff is us.

I bought those cables March of 2019 under the recommendation of Lindsey on this forum. LMC had no picture, so I bought them on faith of Lindsey’s recommendation and it was spot on. It was the same as original. Here is the original post. [Link]

Edit: actual order date was 4/02/19.

LMC part #34-3806. If you have any doubts call (800)562-8782 to confirm.

I see and have no doubts that you ordered the part that you show, and it has the detent groove. With your info, you have helped others avoid all the other non original/ill fitting cables. I guess my theory that it would be unlikely that LMC would have a different, and correct, cable than all the others, and at the same price, is wrong.

I would still like to see a pic of the next LMC cable received by somebody. To be sure something has not changed, since they have no pic. My apologies otherwise. There was no malintent.

Phil, is the groove I see in your pic near the end of the ferrule, the groove we are speaking of and it's just not at the clamp bolt yet because it was not finished being installed?

Yes, a picture would be helpful. Cast iron can be welded and brazed, albeit a little tricky. Let us know what you decide to do woof359 and we will be glad to help!

I typed the part number into the LMC website, same price but no picture< I well give them a call in the morning, thanks

Good idea Woof.

There are two grooves in the ferrule. The clamp bolt engages with one in the middle and the second on the end is for the rubber boot that stops water and debris from entering the cable sheath.

The picture is actually from Lindsey’s truck but mine looks just the same.

I forgot about the boots the first time, not this time tho. after the new cables come the plan is to take pictures of them together, to call Classic Parts and see if they well take the old ones back....... and then see how the new ones work......to be continued, this would be a good one for a sticky post.

The boots from Classic Parts were way too tight around the cable. When I originally put them on, I suspected that they would split but figured at only a few dollars apiece it was worth a try. I did manage to get them on with lots of silicone spray but one eventually split a few weeks later.

If some fellow “Bolter” knows what supplier has boots that fit, both woof359 and I would appreciate it!

Classic Parts does take unused parts back. Within 30 days for a full refund and for store credit after. I returned some leaf spring liners and a few other items back last August with no problems. Follow their return policy written on the back of the receipt and get a Return Authorization Number.

Regarding fit of boot:

If it's the small nipple end, it looks like a heated rod would open that hole up.

Cable fit: I thought this was very interesting from Jim Carter website: (No pic available) If this doesn't fit, there is not a cow in Texas.

Available Now! Our 1/2 ton cable with a beautiful metal wrapped design like GM made 60 years ago. You will really like these! Yes, we had them made Show quality! For only the short bed 1/2 ton. (If you require the longer 3/4 ton, Check MEB490 or extra long 1 ton, MEB491. They are all in stock). Sold each. Jim Carter Trivia: We have stopped marketing the black vinyl covered cables. Their quality, including no boot to keep water out of the inside, was not what we wanted, so we made what was correct. There is very small difference in price for the best! ***You may need to enlarge the hole slightly in the park brake cable bracket off the frame rail for the cable sleeve to fit through. The drill bit for that, should you need it, is 15/32. Not all will need this modification***

He does have a pic of the long bed cable so you can see what an all steel cable looks like and that it will come with a boot installed/or that fits.

LMC cable can not be this quality and is probably the same as all the others by now. Woof is the key to this puzzle.

I don't know if this will help....15 years ago I bought the 54-3100 cables from NAPA (may still be available), due to everything being constantly damp in Central Florida I packed the cable housings with a high pressure grease gun. You can also use a grease point adapter (small and pointed), to do the same thing. Working good still. It also does not hurt to put parking brake on every time you park your vehicle but don't leave it for more than a month. Like everything else it needs to be moved often. Jim Carter is a good company. Doc

just ordered 2 rear cables from LMC, I asked what the front of the cable looked like and they e mailed me this picture, they do not come with the adjusting clvis, part # 34-3806

Those are exactly what I received last April last year from LMC and they worked perfectly.

Now if we can find a vendor that sells the correct boots we’ll all be happy! Don’t buy them from Classic Parts. I managed to stretch them enough the get them over the threaded end but they both split a few months later.

If you want quality rubber parts shop Steele Rubber...that's about as good as it gets.

Mike B

Unfortunately it looks like Steele doesn't sell the boots for the parking brake cables. At least I can't find them on their site.

I just ordered mine from Classic parts to go with LMC cables, well let every one know how they work

Thank you very much Woof. You have found a cable with a detent. I'm sure this will be really helpful for a lot of people. Thanks again for the update. J. Carter probably has it also and his cable sheath is metal. I did recommend a hot poker for the boots.

I bought the boots for my cables, from whom I don't remember. They looked to thin and flimsy. What I did was buy straight spark plug boots and they worked so much better.

I found another options although expensive...

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/sbst5103

These look correct and have the indent on them...

looks right but the price is a little high for right now

Spark plug boots would certainly work better that the boots I got from Classic Parts and may be a viable option. I was looking at motorcycle hand brake boots online and wondered if they might work.

LMC cables came, same price as classic but with a different front the LMC has a sheath for the retaining bolts to go threw front groove for retaining bolt back one for rubber boot, bottm one is LMC, bad thing they dont come with a clevis and they dont offer it bottom one is the LMC