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#13606 02/11/2003 5:06 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
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C
'Bolter
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Recently I'm seeing way too much coolant/water on the ground coming right from underneath the radiator of my '50-3100 series. Lower radiator hose seems sealed so I'm imagining it's the core itself.

Looking at the radiator (It's fins etc) it seems to be in great condition, but I'm assuming the bottom is possibly falling out. Is it generally better to have the current radiator looked at/fixed as compared to getting a new one ? And if a new one is necessary, are they hard to find ?


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
#13607 02/11/2003 5:37 AM
Joined: May 2001
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W
'Bolter
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I had a new core put on mine since the tanks were good. It cost $225. I could see right where it was leaking. I could also see steam when it was warm. Could your water be coming from the overflow tube? Mine would do that if the radiator was too full.


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
#13608 02/11/2003 8:10 AM
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I just had my radiator cleaned and sealed up - $50. Radiator shop will tell you what you need. And you can get a 2nd opinion if need be.

#13609 02/12/2003 1:54 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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cmayna,

Carefully consider Wally/Montana's question. A 1950 engine should have a 0 lb radiator cap (I think) and a '54-'62 should have a 4 lb radiator cap (I think). These radiators always overflow unless/until the level is 1"-2" below the top of the radiator.

Tim

#13610 02/12/2003 2:44 AM
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'Bolter
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Yesterday morning I came out in 36 degree weather, and saw a fair amount ( 2 foot diameter circle) of coolant, on the ground under the truck. To me it seems to open up when it gets real cold and releases some coolant. Then seals back up when the temp rises. I'll keep snooping before I make any major decision.....


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
#13611 02/12/2003 2:58 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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How low was the coolant in the radiator when you found the fluid on the ground?

Tim

#13612 02/16/2003 2:18 AM
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'Bolter
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The water is about 1 -1/2" below top. Strange that even though I've been complaining about leaking, the level hasn't really changed. Yes it might be the overflow tube, thus I have hooked the tube to a clear plastic bottle (kinda like an overflow container) to see if I suddenly quit seeing water on the ground as well as on the lower radiator frame that bolts to the front engine cross member which also shows moisture. The container has a couple very small holes so the overflow moisture will fill into it without any resistant.It may very well be the overflow tube since it was pointed down towards the lower radiator cross frame member.

Tim, you say for a '50 that the radiator cap should be a zero lb pressure cap ? The one I have current is marked at 7 lb. Hmmmmm. What impact could this have ?

cmayna


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
#13613 02/16/2003 2:59 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
cmayna,

My understanding is that the radiator's level should be about what you describe.

Tim

#13614 02/16/2003 3:05 AM
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Running a too high pressure cap will allow pressure to build up in the system where none was meant to be. This could force water into areas it doesn't belong or strain the system.

My cap was too high too. Though a 54 doesn't run 0 I believe, I forget what it should be. Maybe 4lbs.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
#13615 02/16/2003 3:34 AM
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cmayna:

I bet you have a hole in the bottom part of your radiator. I just recently had the same type of h20 leak in my '50 AD. The radiator shop boiled out the radiator and did a pressure test. They found a hole at the bottom and also one at the top that I had not noticed. They fixed the holes, but said they couldn't guarantee that it would not leak again because of the age of the radiator. They also said that a new core had been put in the radiator at some time. You may want to check out the new radiators @ www.classicperform.com , which are only $239. This price seems to be reasonable, since the radiator shop quoted me a price of about $400. Good Luck

Denny

#13616 02/16/2003 5:28 AM
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 265
R
Shop Shark
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cmayna:

I am pretty confident that all AD trucks with a 216 in them are designed to use a 4 lb. pressure radiator cap. I consulted a few old time mechanics and a professional restorer or these old trucks. I know that my radiator would over flow if it was filled more than 2 inches from the top. I hope this is your problem, and not something worse.

Good Luck.

Rugo
53 3100
Smokem if you gottem, if you haven't gottem, I know where you can gettem.


Steve Rugg
53 3100
#13617 02/16/2003 2:39 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
A pressure type radiator cap (4 lb) was first used on light trucks in 1953; and, was used on passenger cars and COE trucks from 1948. Passenger car (and maybe truck) engines might have changed to a 7 lb cap in 1955 but my books do not make it clear if this was for all engines or just V8s.

Most likely a 4 lb (or maybe even a later 7lb) radiator cap can be used on a 216 engine. In all cases (0lb. 4lb, or 7lb caps), a radiator filled to the top will overflow until the fluid (when cool) is an inch or two below the top.

cmayna,

Keep checking your radiator (when cooled) and see if the level stabilizes.

Tim

#13618 02/16/2003 5:25 PM
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'Bolter
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Sorry I didn't clarify one thing. I have a '62 -235 in my beast. Don't know if this makes a difference.
It rained all night but today is incredibly beautiful so I'm going for a nice long drive to see if I find more leaks.....


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
#13619 02/18/2003 1:42 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
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Have you had the waterpump or thermostat housing off before this problem showed up. I put a new waterpump on my latemodel daily driver beater and did not tighten the pump bolts tightly enough.It did the same thing leak when cold but would hold pressure when hot,3/8 drive ratchets dont supply much torque. As homer simpson would say doahhhhhhh

#13620 02/18/2003 2:24 AM
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After I detoured the overflow tube into a clear bicycle waterbottle and went for an hour drive, I quickly opened up the hood and guess what, the wind while driving, dried up all previous moisture that was sitting on the lower radiator support and now it's bone dry. And yes, I see a little lime green liquid at the bottom of the water bottle. Now to see if it's still dry after sitting through a cold night.

Both upper and lower hoses look a little bloated where they are fastened so I'll still replace them soon.


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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