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Hello I have recently purchased a 1949 Chev truck. Built in Canada. I have a couple of questions regarding the engine and I hope I'm in the right spot! First I want to Identify the engine itself. Engine serial number stamped on the engine matches the plate number on the drivers door post. C211653. The Casting number on the engine appears to be 3835127 and the head number is 839401. The head casting number from what I can find will fit a 235 or a 216. I just cant find any casting number info on the web that matches what I have? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Second question is that although the engine isnt seized it will only roll over about 2/3 of the way by hand and then get "stuck" Plugs are out and when I am turning it I cant hear a Mechanical clang when it stops so dont think its hitting a open valve? just seems to stick. When rolling it counterclockwise it comes free, but its slugish? I have put ATF as well as Marvel Mystery Oil in all cylinders and let it sit for a day. Seemed to move a little farther but still got stuck? Any ideas? THANKS!

Hy PaddyPhelan, welcome, please remember to tell us the model designation of your truck in every one of your posts, 1300, 1400 etc.. Canadian casting numbers are different than their American cousins in some cases. If your truck is a one ton or less it probably has a 216 Babbitt bearinged engine in it. Before trying to free the engine up, remove the valve cover and check for stuck valves and bent pushrods, hope that helps.

Thanks for the reply. The truck is a Model 1314. It looks like I have a exhaust valve stuck open #6. However when I roll the engine by hand it doesn't feel like a piston hitting a valve. It feels more like resistance then a stop, and the same when I back it off, resistance then free.

Try tapping gently on the stuck valve to see whether it wants to move (try to have the piston near BDC to give the valve space to move). Also try to see whether the valve turns in its guide, even if it doesn't want to move up/down, for more info on how badly stuck it is. Another possibility is that you have something (rust, nuts from squirrels, mouse nest materials - the possibilities are near endless) in one (or more) of the cylinders that is preventing that cylinder from reaching TDC. If it is loose stuff, you may be able to blow it out (piston to BDC for clearance to open the valves, open valves, compressed air in spark plug hole), you might hear nuts rattle even if they don't blow out. You may end up needing to remove the head to see what is going on. Head removal will certainly let you see whether rust has developed on the cylinder wall above the rings and how bad it might be and may help you free up the stuck valve by tapping (again, gently) both directions.

Thanks Grant! i think it was just rust as after soaking for a few days and working the crank back and forth by hand I have been able to get the engine to turn 360 degrees. I left the plugs out and turned the engine over a few times with the starter. No noise coming from the cylinder with the stuck valve, but its still stuck open. I think I may try and fire the engine up and hope the heat will free the stuck valve? Only issue I have is the push rod is making noise as its loose and not making contact with the rocker on the stuck valve. Any issues with trying to start the engine with the loose push rod?

I couldn't find your block casting but the head is listed as used in a 1946 Fleetmaster. That would mean that your engine has the flat top pistons. In Canada, Chevrolet used the dome pistons up until the end of 1942.

Get it unstuck before you fire it. You could easily mess up a couple of things.

Are other valves free? Tap them with rubber hammer or 2 x 4, bent pushrods could occur.

Ed

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0608.htm

An open exhaust valve will not contact the piston. But it does need to be freed.