I'm trying to fix a problem with an oil pan. Short version, lowering the truck the jack got stuck on a pebble, slipped off the axle, and dented / put small hole in oil pan near the drain plug. Before attempting to fix this one I have another engine that I could steal one off. After taking them both off they look a little different inside.
Based on info from casting and block numbers this is what I think I have: The damage pan is a 1952 235 and has the "baffles" in the pan. The other pan came off a 1954 235 but only has 2 basic baffles - but is in very good condition.
Can I use the 1954 on the 1952 without any problems or does the 1952 engine need the additional "baffles". Pictures attached for reference.
The truck is 1952 3100 with the 1952 low pressure 235.
A 1953 and earlier low-pressure oil lubrication system needs the tubes in the left pan. They spray oil into the "dippers" at the bottom of the rods. You must use this style oil pan.
The one on the right (1954) is the first year of the high-pressure (sometimes called "full pressure) enclosed oil lubrication system.
It’s only sheet metal. Bang out the dent, weld the hole and put the original back on. I’m not crawling under your truck to judge the repair and nobody else will either.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I'm definitely not worried about appearance - it's a driver not a restoration. Fixing the other one was the first option. However the metal where the dent / damage is seems very thin after sanding off the paint, almost like it had lots of surface rust prior to painting. The other one is in "good" condition so if I only need to transfer the interior from the old to the new that will probably be the route I go.
Mike, The alignment of the troughs is critical to proper lubrication of the bottom end of the engine. You will not be able transfer the interior from one to the other without factory jigs and gauges. Please don't try that or you will trash your engine. Follow Martins advice.
I've been working on stovebolt engines for 60+ years, and I wouldn't attempt to do what you're proposing. Good luck! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
How big is the hole? can you drill it and put in one of those oil pan replacement plugs?
My father fixed a hole in a transmission case with JB Weld. It held up fine for the 5-6 years that I drove it around. (It was not a sheet metal case tho).
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
Post a pic of the damage and I'm sure someone will be able to advise you on repair. If all else fails, you can weld a patch over the top of the existing metal.
Last edited by klhansen; 05/12/20206:59 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I took it to a local fabricator. The leak was a small pin hole on a crease near the drain plug. He said no problem on the pounding out the dent and repairing the pan. Thought it would be only $50 to $100. I just thought if the other one would of worked that would of be a quick fix, then repair the other pan later. Thanks again for all the input, I knew when I saw the difference in the pan there was a good reason as to why, but didn't know the why. Thanks.
I'm from Knoxville, Iowa. Sprint car mechanics are constantly welding oil pans shut after rods go through them...unless you're a team with DEEP pockets. Necessity is the mother of making do.
