1949 Chevy 3800 panel While removing all the layers of paint we found two areas on both sides that look to be leaded seams one at the rear where the drip edge ends by the top barn door hinge and one in the front where the drip edge is at top of windshield. Both appear to be done prior to first coat of primer. Is this a factory seam, and what’s the “correct” way to fix cracks in it. We have uncovered various layers of paint, primer and some areas of body filler in the usual areas but not much. We have gotten the passenger side down to raw steel and are working on the driver’s side. New wood floors and bed strips at 113” long has been ordered from Mar-K “thanks Amy & Kevin. During the floor removal the back strip at the rear of the strips was installed with recessed carriage bolts that were smooth on the top inserted into dimples in the cross end strip where can I get these polished SS to match the new strips
Those seams are factory. They used leaded seams a quite a few spots. The cowl near the hood hinges, top corners of the windshield, on the pickups, and probably some more on the panels. Lead was used for body filler back in the day. Mar-K can likely supply those carriage bolts as well.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If you do not want to work with lead filler (who would want-to if they didn't have to?), there are metal-impregnated fillers that are often a satisfactory substitute.
I can't find the brand that we used 20 years ago on my Suburban's four lead-soldered-joints/locations where the roof is attached to the lower body. We removed the old lead as best as possible, buffed/shined the joints/locations as much as possible, and then applied the aluminum-strands/hair impregnated filler.
The joints/locations have not had any problems after 20 years.
Some guys feel the joint is too deep and weld in sheet metal, then finish. I did like Tim and used filler. Time will tell how long it will last. BTW, there is one more lead joint at the upper rear corner of the doors.
One of the first substitutes for lead filler about 40 years ago or more was a product made by Ditzler, I believe, called "Aluma-Lead". It was a metallic powder intended to be mixed with clear lacquer into a thick paste, and applied with a putty knife, then finished like Bondo. I don't think it's still being made, but a suitable substitute would be a 2-part 3-M product called "Epoxy Steel", or another metallic filler by the same company known as "Epoxy Aluminum". I've used both products to reform places like rotted window channels where a more durable fix than Bondo was required. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I cannot find "3M Epoxy Steel" - Please provide a link. Maybe it is now called "3Mâ„¢ Scotch-Weldâ„¢" or "3M Scotch-Weld 1751 Aluminum Epoxy Adhesive". Anyone with experience with these products, please post your experience.
PPG bought "Ditzler" in around 1920 and might have had products with the Ditzler name until 1968. PPG still sells a product called "ALUM-A-LEAD".
The putty is a 2-part epoxy with metallic powder in it, mixed in a 1:1 proportion. It's similar to J-B Weld, but MUCH better quality! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Thanks to all we have found the other seams and contemplating removing of it but may talk to body guy that is on my block as to merits of completely removing it verses repair.
We remove the old lead by gently heating and blowing with an air gun which is followed with filing and sanding till nothing but bare metal. The OSHA types have just about done away with the good lead to tin ratio sticks and good tinning compound but we still have a supply that will probably last if just used on old projects. The 69 Chevelle is getting the roof seams re-leaded in our filtered air primer room to keep residue out of general shop area. Once lead work is complete we use Evercoat Slick Sand primer as a barrier between lead and following top coats.
The last time I can recall doing any lead filling was in the late 1990's, as a demonstration for my students in the high school auto body course I was teaching. It was done on a late-1960's Ford Ranchero that had a leaded seam between the cab and the quarter panels/bed sides. Lead work is one of those skills that deteriorates rapidly unless it's done frequently! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
