I have a 1955 chevy first series 3600, with what i believe to be a 235 and Carter single barrel carb. I am wondering if anyone can confirm a part number for a quality rebuild kit. I'am hoping to purchase this from one of the larger stores that ships to Canada as a lot of the specialty places do not ship internationally.
YF2100s is the number you need. Order your kit from The Carburetor Shop (google that). That is CarbKing (Jon) from this forum. Do not order from anyone else as they will sell you a "fits most" kit. Jon will send the correct parts for your specific application. Go to the orders section of his website to get the phone number.
Jon is a Stovebolt member. He does business by telephone. (573) 392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues Central Time).
Cut and paste from his website:
EFFECTIVE 1 JULY 2014, we will ship to the following locations only!:
Any physical address in Canada by U.S. Post Office Registered Mail. Will need postal code to determine exact cost. The post office will not insure mail that is not registered, and we will not ship non-insured.
I just ordered a kit for a Carter WA1 from him. He is very helpful.
Sorry for the preaching. 60+ year old truck parts tend to rust. Make absolutely sure your gas tank, fuel lines and fuel pump are clean with no rust. Install a new fuel filter. Do this so you don't have to rebuild you carburetor again.
The YF 2100S works well on a 235 engine.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Tank is out and soaking with clean fuel, shaken and dumped twice. New fuel pump is on its way, and the fuel lines have been blown out and rinsed with carb cleaner. I will also put a new filter. Also thanks for the info on shipping to Canada, I will be calling tomorrow.
When you open up your carburetor, hopefully you'll not be surprised as much as I was. I went upstream checking fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel tank on up to the gas cap. Rust everywhere. The truck had been running but running poorly. Replaced everything new from gas cap up to the carburetor. Then rebuilt the carburetor. Runs great now. I only use non-ethanol gas.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
I have a new fuel pump coming tomorrow, i hope it is correct, the rock auto fuel cap that came yesterday wasn't. The fuel lines have been flushed with carb cleaner, and surprisingly there wasn't that much crud that came out, although that smell of 25 year old fuel is enough to make a guy gag. I drained that out of the fuel tank, and the half gallon that came out didn't even light when i threw it on the fire out back.
Fingers crossed that this will start and run decent, i think that will keep my sons interest going once they hear it run, and can move it around the yard under its own power.
I didn't want to retrofit/modify everything to be able to run Ethanol like modern cars/trucks. I went with a new Spectra Premium tank GM55A which is made to original specs. Also replaced the cab filler neck (it was rusty), hoses and gas level sender (rust as well). To me, I think the previous owners (6 since 1993) used Ethanol gas and the truck sat idle a lot. The "gasahol" aged out and broke down to a water component hence the rust.
I forgot to mention in my last reply. My rebuilt Rochester B did run much better. Good idle and acceleration but poor on cold engine start-up after a week sitting. I replaced it with a rebuilt YF 2100S. I have the original 6 volt system and it doesn't take long for "Redhead" to fire up now.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
