The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Steel Building

I have 10 X 10 roll up doors. They don’t seal well for retaining heat or A/C but I like the width. I didn’t want overhead doors because of limitations when using a lift. I’ll measure the true width and height and get back to you. I’ll get you the name of the door company too. They weren’t cheap!

At my day job, the roll up doors sit in a channel of a Z type of bracket that bolt to the back side, or interior of the opening. So, designed for a variance of openings. Most of the doors on my shop are 12' wide by 14' tall. Some insulation value. Electric, with either push button or remote control, manual back up. Picture attached is a shot from the opposite side of my shop.

The garage door rough opening should be 10' x 10', actual door size. The metal siding and weather trim will finish it off.

Mike B

Just measured my doors. Exactly 10’ wide. Frame on sides is 123.5” but the rolled up door is a few inches lower than the top of the frame, so it’s gonna also be 10’. Which means I actually have a 10’ X 10’ opening.
Pics below.

I have used rollup doors direct (1877-rldoors) twice now, the last doors had a whisker style seal which was much tighter than conventional seal, easy to put up and build any size no extra charge. Only problem I had was shippers have trouble handling and with out damage, both occasions rollupdoorsdirect resolved problem and held shippers accountable,hope this helps Pat

So doing the math, at 27.5' if I use two 10'x10' doors I will have 28" in the center and 28" on either side. Take in to account the width of the walls and the area on the sides is more like 21". Guess it's a good thing I will have 28' of length.

What’s the two tow balls for on your truck Lugnutz

Duh... to tow two trailers at the same time..lol

Pat66, Thank you for the info on Roll up Doors Direct. The web site is great (https://www.rollupdoorsdirect.com) lots of good info and even a guide to measuring the door space.

That’s my son’s 68. I think the balls are two different sizes. Options are a good thing.

Hey Craig, I’ve had my metal shop building since 2005. I only occasionally get condensate on the floor and that is after a rain when we have high humidity ( I’m in SC just off the Savannah). If you look at the welcome forum under new in SC look at fleet pictures for the one with the back of the blue 68 Camaro. In the upper left of the picture you’ll see a wall fan mounted behind the lift. The other gable end has a louvered vent in it so the fan pulls across the shop. Works great for cooling the shop and removing moisture.
Andy.

Following this thread appears the degree of a condensation issue is very location dependent. I have 3 metal buildings on the Texas gulf coast. All 3 on concrete slabs with a vapor barrier underneath. 2 of the 3 have the 1/4" or so roll insulation on the ceiling only, and one of those had ridge vents, one doesn't. Both building with insulation in ceiling never have condensation in the building, and both have unfinished walls one has a/c & heat, one doesn't. The 3rd building, horse stable, does not have any insulation (except in the finished tack room) and it has a terrible condensation problem. I'll never do that again. I like the idea in an earlier post of calling 2 or 3 insulation manufacturers, and a local insulation vendor and compare notes on recommendations for your area and intended use. Remember what happens when you ask a barber if you need a haircut.

Allen, you make a great point. The insulation supplier can give you a "recommended" R-value based on zip code. They know what works based on your location and intended use.
You certainly don't have to take them up on their recommendation...as long as you are ok with a condensation problem

here in ILLinois the best hobby shops and farm shops have heat in the floor clean quiet DRY kinda expensive but pays later !

I actually worked in a garage that the second half of floor was heated when an addition was added. We would pull snow covered cars in and they dried surprisingly quick. I would consider it if i was building a garage. Pricey but pays for itself inthe long run. Nice to work in also. No more cold feet.

In floor Radiant Heat also works very well with solar panels on the roof to heat the water...pay back is pretty quick!

The only down side to radiant in floor is you have to leave the heat turned on even when not using the shop as it can take a day or two to bring the slab up to temperature. This isn't an issue for a business, but could be for the hobby shop...

I have propane Infrared Heat in my shop and like it a lot, very efficient...I only turn it on when I open up on a cold morning...let it run as needed for a few hours to bring the temp up to 60* and turn it off for the rest of the day. It heats objects that then heat the air, so opening and closing the big shop doors has very little effect on comfort. The down side is you need high ceilings (16' ) due to the clearance issues...units I have need to be 3" away from the ceiling , so the hang at 13' AFF.

Mike B

I had a 24'x36' steel building built on my property. (Steel Structures America). I thought that would be big enough but once I've started taking my '51 apart, I really wish I would have made it wider and longer. I have 12' trusses so I still have space to install a two-post lift in the future.

Rob