After 5 years, finally got my 65 c10 back from paint. Starting to reassemble it but need to know where to find out what bolts and screws to use for body and beds parts. I moved in those 5 years and seem to be missing some bags of bolts. I also can't seem to find diagrams for assembling the cross sills.
I am trying to put a fuel tank the in the bed, and need to know where the cross sills go,and what size bolts needed. I'm not sure of the name of the part, but its the body part between the hood and doors.I believe its the cowl.I also need the bolts for the front body part that the fenders attach to.
Fender bolts will mostly be 5/16 18 thread i believe. Top and bottom of fender at the cab requires a bigger bolt with fine thread. Cowls bolts (4 each side) are same as fender bolts. They tech have a star washer on the head. Review one of the vendor's catalogs and look at pictures. Can't speak to fuel tank mod, but i would review mar-k site for general info then you can extrapolate.
~ HB 1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery 1962 Chevrolet C10 1962 Suburban
I bought the tank from LMC some 6 years ago specific to my truck. The cross sills were taken off during frame restoration. I had a friend help with the disassembling,unfortunately he didn't mark parts and their components,plus he moved out of state. I just want to put the proper hardware on these parts instead of matching bolts with holes.I didn't know where to get diagrams to show bolt sizes. Thanks for your help.
I have a partially disassembled '65 C10, in the process of replacing the front fenders, inner splash panels and core-support. the majority of the bolts for these items are special GM, they are generally pointed on the tip and have an unusual shoulder head., I have some spare bolts because I parted out a '65 cab. If it would be of any help to you I can snap some pix of the correct bolts. Wm
I've seen those. Machine threads that start with a tapered tip that screw into captive nuts on the connecting part. The head type is called Hex washer IIRC. Those are available at most parts stores. A better solution is a cylindrical unthreaded nose for starting the bolt threads.
NAPA calls them body bolts (hex head with captive washer). Link
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The NAPA bolts that klhansen referenced are not correct for the '64-66 Gm trucks. The correct GM bolts are a "shoulder type bolt" with a built-in locking back, no washer, fine thread and pointed on the end. I have three 64-66 C series trucks, on all three of the trucks, the front sheet metal is generally all attached with the same bolts. I have found throughout the years that there is no substitute for factory bolts/fasteners, therefore I am very careful to bag and identify each fastener and the area they came from. I then reuse the factory bolts when possible. I sit at my wire buffer wheel cleaning the bolts, line them up and paint them a correct color. GM started to use bolts that were color coded in the late '60's, metric were one color, SAE, etc., another color. The idiots on the assembly lines only had to remember what color bolt went where. Bagging and identifying bolts/parts saves a lot of messing around looking for replacement bolts, etc. Wm.
I think NAPA also has the fine threaded pointed bolts in their "Help" bins. That was just one that I found on-line. It's more of a sheet metal screw thread that is probably used with J-nuts. I definitely agree with bagging and tagging.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Do a search for whatever size you need in "flange head hex bolt". If you want the self locking add "serrated" to the search. If you want a starter tip then add "body" bolt.
65 Chevy C10, reviewing the pix you attached to your earlier posting, I noted that you have not installed the cowl vent cover and related L/R cover pieces. All three of these pieces are very tricky to install. Generally they install with the same flange head type of bolt as the fenders, etc. However, the alignment is very critical requiring fitment to the doors, etc., several 'horseshoe body shims are required to get the proper alignment to the body prior to installing the hood. Make sure you have the wiper transmission arms, etc., without the wiper arms, installed before installing the cowl cover. The hood bolts should be the same style, flange head, serrated as the fenders, however, they might be larger, I would have to check that out. As I have mentioned earlier I have two 64-66 C10's that are partially disassembled. I just finished replacing the front-clip on one with a front-clip from a donor truck to eliminate rusted out components. I bought a new '65 C-20 Camper Special. I ordered the factory manuals for the truck from GM. (there use to be an order form in the back of the owners manuals for same) Since the 63 -66 trucks are basically the same I received the '63 truck manual, a very thick manual covering the body, etc., I also received the 64-65-66 supplements, therefore I have a complete set of factory manuals. In 68 I bought a 68 K20 4x4, so I have the '67-68 factory manuals. The factory manuals are very detailed, however, when it comes to fasteners, the various fasteners are generally shown, however, the sizes, etc., are not listed. I would be glad to snap you pictures of any area of the '64-66 C10's that I have. Wm.
Yes, I agree with Wrench Fetcher. I've sat many long hours doing bolts that are factory. They do not make anything like the original. Stainless bolts are a nice fix as long as you have a washer, but since there's not point to them, they are often harder to get started. I have a bunch of "extra" bolts from old project c10's that i've cleaned up/painted for use in case i need it. A little WD40 while putting these back in the threads helps too. Keeps the holes from rusting shut as much.
As mentioned, the LMC site answers all your questions and has the correct bolts (correct head and tip for front clip and bed) ......and the assembly orientation of sills and etc.
