So i've been on and off this website but i still own 2 51' GMC pickups. One is a barn find full original 51' 3 window all intact and hasn't run in 40 years. My goal was to buy a frame, build it up and use the barn find body over the new frame build. I find the frame, partial built up with a mustang II front end, disc brakes, a rear end out of a camaro, new leaf springs and cross member. However, the frame purchase came with an entire truck with 5 windows!!!!!!!!! darn, now a dilemma!!!!!! Both are long beds. Soooooo, my new plan is to build the 5 window, modernize it like it's been started and to eventually take the barn find and restore to originality, Boy will i be busy for the next several years!!!!!! So, my question to all of you, since this is my first frame off restoration..............what references are out there to be able to systematically finish the frame so i have everything done before I start on the cab, then install on frame and then the bed would follow. I would like to relocate the gas tank to the rear and take suggestions on what seating works and so on....... I will post pics as to what I have and will rely on your input to get me going...... thanks for your time.
Just to straighten my thoughts out. I'm going to do a restomod on the 5 window and i'm putting the barn find on hold.
Start off with figuring out your budget and intent then work from there. Write down all your thoughts and figure out how much it costs. Example: if I use a 350 ($), I need/want this transmission ($) that will work with it, I need this axle due to width, driveline, brakes. Can your frame handle the torque & HP of the engine?
As you take each thing apart, take pictures and when you think you are good, take more pictures. Put bolts in labeled bags, etc.
Just a few quick thoughts to get you going. This is not a quick project! I got in over my head a few times and guys in here helped me out. Understand, everyone here has an opinion, don't get offended when they are brutally honest with you. Do your research!
Good luck with your builds! Ask questions and learn before you do something!
DO YOUR HOMEWORK !!! I can't stress that enough, I didn't and it lead to a lot of issues down the road. As Chris said make a plan, it's not set in stone so you can make changes as you go. With a plan you can look at what others have done and how they accomplished things and maybe things you would do differently. read up on other guys projects and look at there pictures (the Gallery is a great place to start). Once you have an idea of your final project take it in bite size pieces, the chassis in your case will be the most involved. Break it down to projects, rear suspension, front suspension, brakes, steering, fuel tank etc.. Take steps to finish things before moving to another, if you bounce around you can lose focus and sidetracked.... I didn't follow any of these steps and have ended up missing out on being able to enjoy having the truck, now it's finally coming together after 30 years..
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
THIS LINK isn't a full restoration by any means (it's pretty much the opposite). But it's by one of our members and gives a different take on upgrading the engine. I suspect most of us don't have the knowledge to easily duplicate, but with a little research, we can learn what's needed.
Good Luck, it's an epic journey you're starting for sure. Looking forward to following along.
I second the plan: work order, time frame, budget.
I didn’t the first time and boy oh boy did it snowball out of my control and beyond my ability. I sold it for a massive kick in the wallet. Ugh.
Have a plan....stick with it!
I’d leave the barn find original too. You’d be surprised how enjoyable the vintage, original iron can be to resurrect. No modifications that cost big bucks. They don’t snowball and affect the next piece of the puzzle. Modifications start small and then darn near everything after that one “little upgrade” is altered and then that has to be modified. And then this piece and that piece...$$$$$, time^^^^^^, frustration ^^^^^, ....arrrgghhhh.....sold at a major loss.
It happens all the time. Just check your local classifieds. I was a seller one time!
Last edited by Fox; 01/23/20204:27 AM.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Back in my hotrodding days 50-something years ago, our slogan was "There's no substitute for cubic inches!" With off-frame resto-mods, it's more like "There's no substitute for cubic dollars!" Anytime the frame and the sheet metal get separated, the dollar-gobbling gremlins start multiplying geometrically, and there's always someone lurking in the shadows who claim they can solve all the problems by selling you something- - - -a trick suspension system, fancy wheels, a disc brake conversion, air bags, etc. These people are not necessarily your friends! About a year ago I did a pre-purchase inspection on a 54 Chevy 3100 that had gotten the full resto-mod treatment. An overseas buyer commissioned me to do a photo shoot and a test drive and file a report. The asking price was $70K, and the seller claimed he was barely breaking even. The steering system was just short of being deadly dangerous, the result of a poor routing job of the steering shaft and universal joints which made the steering try to lock up every 1/2 turn of the steering wheel. There were a few other pretty serious mistakes made during the project. I really doubt if the buyer took the bait, or if he did, I'll wager the price got heavily discounted to accommodate the repairs I recommended.
As several others have suggested, do your homework before you pick up a wrench! Have fun! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
to all of the above and those yet to come.............thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!!!!All good advice and will follow for sure. I will also keep you guys posted of the serious work starting this spring. the plan has been started and im motivated with you guys behind me to get this project going............ Here we go!!!!!!!!! by the way , money not an issue but i'm a pretty frugal guy and watch my pennies ( Oh, right, now its dollars!!!!!)
I like it. Just a fyi all the stock drivetrain parts are pretty stout and if your not building a truck to do burnouts with or beat to death power shifting and stoplight racing then you should be fine with most all the stock parts. That saves s lot of $$$$. As for engine stuff im obviously biased towards newer technology but either way ya go there are a million ways to do things. I generally look at it like “how easy can i make this on myself”. If i can make it happen cleanly then thats how i do it rather than blow $$$ on fancy stuff. My build was referenced above and as you see i kept it as simple as possible just with the only major upgrades being motor and a dual master cylinder. Everything else is pretty much how it came from GM. My 1 bit of advice is to have a GOAL. If you dont know your goal you cant build a car/truck 99% of the time. My goal was look and be as factory as possible with the exception of the powerplant. Not for massive horsepower or speed but for reliability and ease of maintenance and availability of parts. I had a lot of people tell me “dont bother building it with that stock front end. Its gonna drive like sh*t!” I told them well good! I want it to drive like a old truck not a corvette. Yes your goals may wander a bit as you get into it and find cheaper ways or smarter ways to do things but if you really know what you want it to look like finished then just aim for that.
Great advice and I do have a goal. I have 2 trucks. A 5 window and the one above, a stock truck with all original parts. My goal is to bring that one above back to life in its originality. My goal for the 5 window and the truck i'm working on first is what's driving me crazy. My goal is to modify to modern drivability, comfort and just cruising, nothing radical. My issue is i go back and forth on how to accomplish that. So, what that in mind here's my latest thought. The 5 window frame is pretty much 60% completed. mustang II front end, rack and pinion steering, disc brakes all fours, camaro rear end, new leaf springs, 373 positraction gearing. As i look at the cab and the body work and bed frame, there is a lot of intensive labor and some part replacement ahead. Now, Ecklers has an entire cab assembly with every piece including the bed ready to be put on the frame. 15k but i would save many years of labor, assembly and cost to replace some pieces. Has anybody used Ecklers or have thoughts on their components. I could put this truck on the road in a matter of months, rather than years and its very attractive. Any thoughts? Anyone?
Well, us folks here like original steel, however, this is the HiPo Forum. Your thoughts are probably spot on time wise. I can’t recall anyone here using an entire replacement cab. Ecklers has been around a long time and has a reputation for being a bit pricey. Before you pull the trigger look around for other suppliers. I suspect the components are made buy the same factory that makes every other piece of sheet metal for these trucks. Do your due diligence before you drop your hard earned cash.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
The fact is I'm more of a mechanical guy than a body work guy. I don't enjoy bodywork and I feel that im taking the easy road. But, its a huge time saver for me and would allow me to get the project on the road quicker with spending more time on the things i like to do like engine and suspension work.
Well, with this shelter in place stuff it allows the mind to wonder to far and eventually all over the place. I have 2 trucks, both 51s- 5 window and a 3 window. the 3 window cab is in better shape than the 5 window. the 5 window frame is built up with a mustang 2 front suspension with R & P steering. New leaf springs and camaro rear end in place. just need to proceed with brake lines, fuel tank and engine mounting etc. I'm now thinking about throwing the 3 window cab on that suspension. they are both long beds..........do you guys see any issues with swiping out frames for registration purposes with the DMV? if so , i'm downsizing and then i will sell the 5 window with the other frame that is original stock. Like i said, too much thinking and not enough doing?
There are no numbers on the frame that would pertain to registration. As long as you have a title that matches the cab you use you are good to go. Please note: Stovebolt.com does not endorse or approve of swapping, altering or otherwise relocating VIN plates. Such activities will NOT be discussed here. This thread will be deleted if if wanders that direction.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Yeah, thanks Justhorsenround........ No intent to move any VIN plates as such........Just wanted input on the frame swap. I know its done all the time. where's the best place to go to decipher the cowl plate info?
Post the numbers or a photo of the plate here. One of our number crunchers will know the breakdown.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
