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#1355971 04/19/2020 1:46 AM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
I dropped my oil pan so I could replace the gasket and hopefully fix some of my leaks, and I found about a 1/4 inch of fairly thick sludge and under that a thin layer of a shiny gray material that I would like to know what it is. It was between the sludge and the bottom of the oil pan and kind of looked like wet paint, and it was a little tacky like wet paint too. Anybody seen this before?

My other question is what do you put on your cork gasket and end seals. I have both RTV and type 3 brush on paste; which works better in this situation?

Thanks, Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
LeeD #1356044 04/19/2020 3:08 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
For the pan gasket I use black RTV. I glue the gasket to the sides of the block and put some at the corners where the end cork meets the block. I also put a bead along the middle of the pan lip that gets squeezed when the pan is bolted up. I also use a couple of cut off bolts in two of the hole in the block to guide the pan on during installation.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
LeeD #1356053 04/19/2020 4:05 PM
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 660
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 660
LeeD,
My original 216 motor had what you described in the oil pan. Sludge and what I figured was dirt silvery muck...years & years of dust...and dirt.
Ditto on Truckernix...
It was easy on an engine stand.
-T


1950 Chevy 3100
LeeD #1356096 04/19/2020 8:07 PM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
Unfortunately, mine is still in the truck, so it will be a little harder. Right now I am trying to make sure I get everything in the right order, so I need to put the cork on the engine first, and then install the end pieces, and then put up the pan. One video I watched, the installer specifically said not to put RTV on the pan side of the end gaskets; then after the pan was on, he put a bead over the end gasket on the outside to seal it. I don’t think I will be able to do that with the engine in. When I dry fitted the gaskets on the pan, I did notice a pretty good sized gap between the end gasket and the pan that will need to be filled in (unless when installed, it compresses closed). So my question is, do I put RTV on both sides of the rubber end gaskets before installing?

Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
LeeD #1356106 04/19/2020 9:00 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
I had better luck sealing my ‘54 235 by putting the end pieces up in place on the block with a light coat of gasket sealer then putting the side pieces on the pan with a light coat of sealer and letting everything sit and dry for about 30 minutes. Put a dab of sealer in the corners and ease the pan up into place being very careful not to let the gaskets move. Tightened everything down and when I sold it 4 years later still no leaks. Good luck.🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

LeeD #1356125 04/19/2020 10:00 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Martin,

I think you posted that several years ago. I followed it with complete success.

Yes, you can teach an old dog new tricks. Especially if the tricks/techniques are well-described and clearly explained.

Thanks

LeeD #1356137 04/19/2020 10:48 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
There is a Tech Tip I wrote up years ago.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

LeeD #1356142 04/19/2020 11:03 PM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
That silvery material is probably Babbitt from being pounded out over the years.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
LeeD #1356153 04/20/2020 12:24 AM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
Thanks Martin, I’ll look up the tech tip too. I appreciate all the help.

Lee.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
LeeD #1356166 04/20/2020 1:24 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,274
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,274
I think that the sticky silvery stuff is unprocessed dinosaur snot which separated out from the original oil put in the truck on day one.
Every unmolested 216 which I have torn down has had it in the oil pan.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
LeeD #1356169 04/20/2020 1:35 AM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
To my knowledge, this is the first time the oil pan has been off, so it is the original dinosaur snot.


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed
LeeD #1356172 04/20/2020 1:44 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Originally Posted by LeeD
To my knowledge, this is the first time the oil pan has been off, so it is the original dinosaur snot.
Your 1956 235 engine had never been rebuilt?
It has the original rod and main bearings?

How long have you had it?
How many miles have you put on it?
How many miles on the speedometer/odometer?

What is the engine serial number that is pressed in the ledge in the block, rearward of the distributor?

LeeD #1356179 04/20/2020 2:49 AM
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 326
My father in law bought the truck in 1964, and to his knowledge, the previous owner did not go into the engine. He drove it on the farm until the mid seventies, then only seldom. The number of miles is unknown (he had a problem with the speedometer that he fixed by disconnecting it). I have had it now for about three years and have put about 2 thousand miles on it and am slowly repairing/improving items as I go ( I pulled the oil pan and pushrod cover to repair leaks and visually check what I could see). The engine sn is: 273564F56X. This is my first old Chevy pickup, so I am not an expert, but I have found very little improvements or changes on the truck (one rear brake light on left side, no seatbelts, no turn signals, etc) so no one (until me) has done much work on it.

Lee


1956 Chevy 3200, 235 w/3 speed

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