Ok guys, I had the front end aligned on my 49 pickup and had all new inner and outer tie rods and ball joints replaced, adjusting sleeve, and upper ball joints. The lower ball joints checked out fine. My front end is back out of alignment again. Pulling just a little to the right just like it was before I had the front end aligned but not as bad. I checked and nothing seems to be loose or bent. I had the wife help and checked the dimensions on the front of the tire and at the back of the front tire. Front measured 62 1/4" and at the back it measured 62 3/4" so looks like toe in to me. I tried the string check and set up a string on both sides of the truck being parallel to the truck and the string was same distance across at the front and the back. This was just to subjective and to much eye balling to do any good for me. I believe the measurements on the tire to be more accurate showing toe in. The front end is off a 91 Chevy S10. Looking at the pic (drivers side), if I loosen both nuts, which way should I turn the adjusting sleeve for more toe out? Since I don't really know which tire may be out I think my plan is to adjust both sides just a little and take a test drive and keep doing that until I'm satisfied. Unless someone else has a better plan of attack.
Last edited by olezippi; 04/19/20206:15 PM.
"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem" 1949 5 Window 3100 Follow in the DITY Veteran of the USAF My Website
Excessive toe does not create a pull, and if the 1/2" difference you're reading is correct you've got WAAAAYYYYY too much toe-in! 1/8" is plenty! That being said, other than using professional alignment equipment to check, there's only one way I've found to get an accurate toe check. Prop a piece of plywood or sheet metal against the tire sidewall on both sides and use a tape measure to check the dimensions at the front and back of the tread. It's the way we used in the pits at the race track. Using two tape measures is a quick and foolproof way to get a quick reading. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Excessive toe does not create a pull, and if the 1/2" difference you're reading is correct you've got WAAAAYYYYY too much toe-in! 1/8" is plenty! That being said, other than using professional alignment equipment to check, there's only one way I've found to get an accurate toe check. Prop a piece of plywood or sheet metal against the tire sidewall on both sides and use a tape measure to check the dimensions at the front and back of the tread. It's the way we used in the pits at the race track. Using two tape measures is a quick and foolproof way to get a quick reading. Jerry
Thanks for your input. That's what we did, checked the dimensions at the front and back of the tire to find out there is toe in. I assume that 1/8" is per tire so looks like maybe I have double what is needed. Maybe I should reduce the toe and see how it handles just not sure which tire to adjust.
Last edited by olezippi; 04/19/20206:50 PM.
"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem" 1949 5 Window 3100 Follow in the DITY Veteran of the USAF My Website
Are you running a complete S-10 frame, of some kind of aftermarket setup that uses S-10 suspension parts? From the nose-low attitude in the picture, and what appears to be a rack & pinion steering system, I doubt if using original equipment specifications of any sort will work for you. A good starting point for your alignment shop will be positive camber settings of about 1 1/2 to 2 degrees on both sides, and about 4 or 5 degrees of positive caster. Set the toe-in to 1/8" TOTAL- - - -1/16" per side. If the vehicle pulls to the right on a level road without much drainage crown, try reducing the driver's side caster by about 1/2 degree to get a little bit of left lead. That compensates for the drainage crown that's built into most roads. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Are you running a complete S-10 frame, of some kind of aftermarket setup that uses S-10 suspension parts? From the nose-low attitude in the picture, and what appears to be a rack & pinion steering system, I doubt if using original equipment specifications of any sort will work for you. A good starting point for your alignment shop will be positive camber settings of about 1 1/2 to 2 degrees on both sides, and about 4 or 5 degrees of positive caster. Set the toe-in to 1/8" TOTAL- - - -1/16" per side. If the vehicle pulls to the right on a level road without much drainage crown, try reducing the driver's side camber by about 1/2 degree to get a little bit of left lead. That compensates for the drainage crown that's built into most roads. Jerry
Thanks for the info. My 49 has the 91 S10 frame that has been welded in place. The rest of the frame is stock that has been boxed. The truck sets level.
"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem" 1949 5 Window 3100 Follow in the DITY Veteran of the USAF My Website
Check the edit I just made- - - -correct for steering pull by altering caster, not camber. I corrected the post, but your quote doesn't reflect that. OOPS! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Make sure your plywood isn’t wet or warped! I’d be up the creek with the wood I’ve got lying around here!
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Not sure on all the quotes and corrections ........but..........camber difference or split has a huge effect on pull or drift.
Camber has about twice the effect caster does on causing a pull. On most setups, 0.3-0.4 degrees difference in camber side to side (Cross-Camber) will be noticeable by most people and about 0.6-0.8 degrees Cross-Caster
