The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop surface rust repair questions

Feel free to post any links..... I have several basic questions as this is my first major restoration. I posted a picture of a rear fender under side view. This is average rust found in this truck. 1960 Apache C20 Step Side

This truck has surface rust everywhere, including hard to get at spots like door interiors and under the hood. I am open to suggestions including dipping as best option.

For the easy areas like the fenders I am just looking at options such as sanding with an electric sander (heavy angle grinder) verses the high speed air sanders. I have the large angle grinder but really worry I may take off more than the rust.

Wire wheels: the knotty stuff verses straight wires on areas such as the cowl and vents where there is a lot of area you cannot get with sand paper. Or any other good way to remove the rust.

I am posting a separate question about short term primer to cover the freshly sanded areas......

The problem with sanders and wire wheels is you can't get in the nooks and crannies. Wire wheels also don't get into the rust pits.
Media blasting would be best in my opinion. I'm sure others will have different opinions
If you're going to use sanders or wire wheels, I would use a rust converting product like Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. It won't work for long though if you leave it out in the weather and don't top coat it.

For a 1960 fender 60 yrs old looks pretty good,I would wire brush the underside the best you can then use a rust converter such as rust mort then put a rust paint such as tremclad or rust oleum . Or you can use the magnetic type paint such as por 15 or chassis saver ,they also need to be painted over as they are uv sensitive .As for the top side lots of sanding and prep before paint

Be careful when media blasting. Thin sheet metal can easily warp if done incorrectly.

John

My approach would be to media blast by a qualified person, followed by coating with epoxy primer. Skip the rattle can junk as it will not prevent moisture from getting to your metal, and would have to come off again. Put good stuff on once and you won't have to redo it.. You can mix epoxy and spray, brush, or roll. Still has to be blocked out so application method is less an issue as having a good product on there.

I agree. Best part is, if you can point a media blast nozzle at it, you can usually point a paint gun at it.

I would sandblast it with a cheap suction-from-a-bucket kit. I do that all the time. Outdoors. You will need a 80 gal or up compressor. I have a large cabinet blaster also. Parts like the old thick metal fender with curves and angular shapes do not warp with a home kit. Just move around the part as you go. The more crooked a part is, the stronger against warp it is. Flatter/larger pieces like doors and hoods and tops need more care. Go with wire wheel in the center of those pieces. Welding on things is more of a warp problem.
A wire wheel on a grinder is also very good. Chemicals are too risky for the paint job later. Never tried molasses. You can wire wheel 90% and blast the nooks.
Harbor sells the black slag type stiff. So does home depot. 3M breather and pull over hood is required.
You don't need to start farming things out. The fun is doing it and learning for the next 10 projects.
Restoration by proxy is expensive and not a hobby. Nothing needs farmed out except painting.

Nah! That can be done too!