The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 6v starter, wiring, and starter switch

I searched but did not see the issue that I've just experienced. My 54 3100 had recently "burnt off it's starter wire" from the battery to the starter. I just thought it was too small, because it looked the part, and bought a big 'ole original wire. But when I put in on, the wire got so hot I had a small flame at the starter switch. That switch was apparently bad (I did not realize that) and I wonder if I've done damage to the coil or the starter itself. The old starter is original I think, and I've taken it off along with the little ruined switch. thinking of having the starter rebuilt, and I have to replace the starter switch. What did I ruin? I appreciate any pointers and advice.

By the way, the bigger wire I thought was going to help me get the truck to turn over faster and start up without starter fluid.

Thanks for any hints

My guess is that your starter has shorted out inside, causing it to draw the excess current that burnt up the wire. Probably why it didn't turn over fast enough to start either.

This is a Delco Remy starter with the foot actuated switch, correct ?

Did you try removing the switch from the starter? When I rebuilt mine, I noticed that the switch has those two small pieces of plastic of each side to keep the main contact from hitting the sheet metal housing (Z in the diagram).

At the time, it just did not seem like the most robust design to me, but I guess it works. If one of them were to break or wear thru, it looks like that contact could touch the housing. That might account for a short circuit which is immediately present when the cable is connected.

Just a thought....

Bob, now that you mention it, Model A's had that same insulator piece on either side of the bar that makes contact with the button on the starter itself, although I think the only way the bar could contact the housing would be if it was either assembled incorrectly or the contact bar had bent or broken. I'm remembering it from 50 years ago, though. A broken switch is a definite possibility. It would be easy enough to check by removing the switch.

The other thing would be a loose, high resistance connection at the cable stud. That could cause a lot of heat buildup.

Under ideal operating conditions starting motors operate under virtually "dead short" resistance. That's why they're only intended to be run for a few seconds at a time. If an engine is cranked for 30 seconds without starting the starter needs 20 minutes of cool-down time before another attempt at starting is made. A well-tuned engine probably won't run the starter for even 5 seconds before the engine fires. As long as the starter is running at its normal speed, a magnetic induction known as "counter-EMF" controls the maximum current draw to some extent. If the engine is hard to crank due to sticky piston rings, cold oil, etc. the starter can't achieve its normal cranking speed and the current draw increases dramatically. Just a few seconds of cranking very slowly under heavy load can destroy the windings in the starter due to excessive current draw.

It sounds like you have destroyed the starter internally from excessive current draw. Now the only option will be to dismantle everything and see if there's anything left to repair. if the engine can't be turned easily by pushing the vehicle in high gear with the spark plugs removed, find out why it's hard to turn before you try to spin it over it with the starter again.
Jerry

The only reason I was kinda leaning toward checking the switch first, was that it sounded like the shorted condition was present even when the starter was not energized.

Kellerkats, is that correct? Or did I misread your OP?… (I could be just hallucinating, too... This self quarantine stuff is taking its toll on me)

Best Regard….