Last three days of quarantine, been out in the shop working on the 64 GMC. Got rid of all the rotten wood in the bed, which was every piece, disassembled the bed sides and front panel. Removed the third member and rear suspension off the frame-making it bare. Then cleaning degreasing and undercoating the frame rails. Next the Dana 44 gets a new pinion seal and rear cover gasket, painted , new spring and shackle bushings and shocks. Purchased a new carrier bearing and ujoints with fresh brakes it will go back together to a roller again next week. Started knocking out the dents on the front panel, and filling the dents in the tail gate too.
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Since we are a “shelter in place” state, Illinois, I have been able to get some sanding done. Everybody loves to sand. Am I right? A lot more sanding to do. But for now I managed to get these parts sanded and ready for paint Last week I was able to get these other parts painted. Gonna try to get the heater box parts done tomorrow.
1948 1.5 ton grain truck with pto driven dump bed.
What are the parts on either end of your first pic? The heavy brackets on the right and the two items on the left. I don't recognize them. What truck are you working on? The front fender brackets and the stuff in the second pic look like AD parts.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
You are correct. These parts are for a 48 1.5 ton. The brackets on the right are the bumper brackets. The two on the left are the levers for operating the the dump bed.
1948 1.5 ton grain truck with pto driven dump bed.
You are correct. These parts are for a 48 1.5 ton. The brackets on the right are the bumper brackets. The two on the left are the levers for operating the the dump bed.
Cool. I went back and looked at your first post. Nice truck. Be sure to post more progress pics. We like to see what others are doing.
BTW, you can put truck info in your signature. Click on your username on the upper right of a page and select Edit Profile. That way I won't have to ask dumb questions.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Did this yesterday. Before I got my cab, someone did a number on the firewall trying to install a late model steering column. Had to patch it up since I'd like to go back to an original column. One step closer to finishing the cab! Pics are before and after.
Got the seat riser patch fitted and welded in. Still working on grinding the welds. The bottom driver's side flange and most of the riser below the bottom bead rusted away. I bent a piece of sheetmetal and stretched the flange to fit the curve. Worked out pretty well, I think. Also completed welding the floor patch and started grinding the welds. This doesn't have to look that nice as it'll be covered by undercoating eventually. Not too worried about appearance of the part underneath the seat. First pic is the riser patch fitted, Second is welded in, and third is the floor panel.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I got the stewart warner speedo reducer hooked up to my r10 overdrive and the speedo is now dead on perfect with my GPS. Also finally changed the plugs out because they had OVER 150k mi on them. Runs like a top!
Got My 327 engine block on the stand and cleaned up.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
Bought a new vacuum gauge and finally adjusted my idle mixture on the newly rebuilt Carter YF. Man, my old 216 runs nice! Hasn't run this good in years!
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Replaced the turn signal switch in the steering column of my 49. My tilt steering column is from an 84 Chevy truck and boy was that a chore fishing that ribbon and plug through the steering column.
Last edited by olezippi; 04/06/20209:14 PM.
"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem" 1949 5 Window 3100 In the Gallery Forum Veteran of the USAF My Website
Took my 49 for a test drive. First time down the road since 1975...
49 Chevy 3600 65 Chevy K10 48 International KB-1 Service Truck 55 Willys CJ5 - Chevy 331 powered 26 Model T Roadster Rat Rod 70 Tucker Sno-Cat 442-A 96 Dodge 3500 Cummins dually flatbed x-cab 4x4 06 Jeep Wrangler LJ rock crawler If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem
I got the brass reducer for the Temperature sender (235 engine), finally....and I over torqued it, @#($*(, doesnt hold coolant, leaks like crazy. Will now shop for a new Temp gauge, reducer. Always nice to make more work for myself.
I had installed a new set of R45-S plugs just before I started having my carburetor problems. Took them all out yesterday and noticed not as much fouling as I had with the regular R45's I had been running for years. Cleaned them up, checked the gaps and reinstalled. Runs like a sewing machine!
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
I hear ya. If you can’t drive em you might as well work on em. It’s amazing what a buffing wheel and compound will do. I really thought these would be toast, but a little time on the wheel this is the difference. Stay safe out there.
1948 1.5 ton grain truck with pto driven dump bed.
33 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Spent the day assembling the bottom end of my 327.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
I spent the better part of the afternoon trying to do a grease job on the truck. I found about half of the zerk fittings were plugged up and wouldn’t take grease. I took them all out, brought them in the house, and put them in the oven and turn the setting to “Clean”. Three hours later all the old hard grease had been cooked out. Reinstalled all of them and had about an 80% success rate of getting grease to go in. I think those that wouldn’t take grease the joint was packed. I’m looking at YouTube videos of The Grease Joint Rejuvenator, and might buy one on Amazon.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
mustangguy , I had some hard water spots and oxidation on my torque thrust wheels use it hit them with NOXON and 0000 steel wool. Finished them off with Blue Magic polish. They came out nice.
Last edited by olezippi; 04/15/202012:40 PM.
"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem" 1949 5 Window 3100 In the Gallery Forum Veteran of the USAF My Website
Hey olezippi, looks good. I’ve haven’t herd of Noxon. I’ll have to look into that. I have used the blue magic. It’s good stuff. Flitz has also been good to me. I’m also doing some polishing. Working on glove box door to get it ready for paint , and the hood side emblems. I’ve got more work to do on the shiny one. These will have to do till I can find better. Take care.
1948 1.5 ton grain truck with pto driven dump bed.
Hey olezippi, looks good. I’ve haven’t herd of Noxon. I’ll have to look into that. I have used the blue magic. It’s good stuff. Flitz has also been good to me. I’m also doing some polishing. Working on glove box door to get it ready for paint , and the hood side emblems. I’ve got more work to do on the shiny one. These will have to do till I can find better. Take care.
Looks pretty good. Here is a pic of the NOXON bottle. Your bench grinder/wire wheel looks a little like mine.
Last edited by olezippi; 04/15/20201:58 PM.
"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem" 1949 5 Window 3100 In the Gallery Forum Veteran of the USAF My Website
Thanks for the picture. I can't recall ever seeing that on the shelves around here. I looked it up and it's sold all over. I guess the green isn't bright enough. Maybe I'll Amazon it. It's been a a good buffing setup. It can definitely relocate the part you're working on to the other side of the room in a hurry. Lol
1948 1.5 ton grain truck with pto driven dump bed.
Gentlemen, please get back on topic. (What did you get done on your Bolt today) Idle chitchat belongs in the Greasy Spoon. Thanks
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Hauled some grass clippings to my big mulch pile Saturday then washed the truck. Even sprayed the tires with ArmorAll. Pretty! Getting real tired of staying home so much, so me and my seat cover took a drive to a park about 10 miles away. Walked around a while and drove back. Nice evening temps, and we both enjoyed riding a while in the old truck.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Hi all - Living in Covid Time...I did a a quick cab sound proofing with Peel and Seal (available at Lowes), 2 rolls at $16 bucks. Reults? Cruising around town, I can actually hear to fine musical subtleties (listening to BTO on my sound system) I never heard while this truck was moving. Of course, like most 50s 3100s, not much can block out wind noise at 60+. Cranking up the volume helps but makes my ears hurt. For BTO it may be worth it though.
33 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
I use my ‘57 3200 as a daily driver. Replaced rear turn signal/ brake bulb. Tightened up p.s. belt, tied off some hoses that were part of a/c installation last fall. Tightened up various loose bolts and began investigation of small transmission drip.
1957 Chevy 3200 Daily Driver PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights. Follow in the DITY