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#135296 09/06/2006 8:16 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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I just bought a power brake booster that mounts where the master cylinder does on my 54 chevy 1/2 ton. it has a 235 engine. Will there be enough vacuum to run the booster, and any tips on installation. the booster says its for disc/drum but he said it would work on drum/drum. thanks


1954 Chevy 3100. Original 235 and Hydramatic

www.cardomain.com/ride/2344117
#135297 09/06/2006 10:03 PM
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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Yes there will be plenty of vacuum if you have a stock o0r mild cam. Put a fitting in place of the pipe plug in the manifold & run 3/8 vacuum hose to it. The disc-drum MC. will not work on drum-drum unless you use a inline check valve. Drum brake MC,s have check valves built into the outlets.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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#135298 09/06/2006 10:37 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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can i buy an inline check valve somewhere to use for it, and how do i install it? thanks


1954 Chevy 3100. Original 235 and Hydramatic

www.cardomain.com/ride/2344117
#135299 09/07/2006 9:48 PM
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Riding in the Passing Lane
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Brake specialtie places have them & street rod suppliers. JPL shows them. $22.50 724-375-3940. CPP www.classicperform.com MP brakes www.mpbrakes.com You will have to cut in the line. All connections must be double flared. They are called residual valves.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
#135300 09/08/2006 2:27 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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how hard is that to do?


1954 Chevy 3100. Original 235 and Hydramatic

www.cardomain.com/ride/2344117
#135301 09/08/2006 3:59 PM
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Shop Shark
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Never done it but have cut and flared copper line for hydraulic lift gates. Doubt that any such work would be particularly difficult. Purchase a double flare tool and practice on a scrap of steel brake line first. Anyway, that's what I will do if I go the direction you have gone.

Sorry to butt in Truckluver but I took notice of this post and would like to piggyback a question for y'all. Given the difficulty in finding discs for a 3/4 ton, how bad would it be to just install a booster? How do the stock drum brakes behave behind a booster and is it a bad idea????

#135302 09/09/2006 4:06 AM
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If you are worried about enough vaccuum you can put a vaccuum canister in-line between the engine and the booster, that'll give you an extra reserve. Companies like Speedway Motors sell them for fairly cheap with the check valve.

Another thing you might want to add is a vacuum line filter to keep oil and fuel fumes out of the booster. those fumes will ruin the booster. The filters are pretty common. I got mine at NAPA.


'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
#135303 09/10/2006 9:28 PM
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Riding in the Passing Lane
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The 3/16 tubes are a little tricky sometimes. The 1/4 go pretty good. Replcement tubes work better than original equipment. Be shure to put the flare nut on first before you make the flare. I,m the only person who has made that mistake.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
#135304 09/12/2006 7:25 AM
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We all know how these trucks stop with stock drums brakes. So, how would one describe the characteristics of a truck with drum brakes that has been upgraded with a vacuum booster? In other words, does the braking feel greatly improved with the booster and how much brake fade can one expect if you are pushing the envelope a bit more?

#135305 09/12/2006 4:37 PM
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on my old 64 I added a power booster to the stock drums, & was impressed by the added stopping power-had to do a panic stop one day to avoid an accident on the frreway @60+mph...if I hadn't had the booster I woulda been on the front row,,brian


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#135306 10/25/2006 11:47 PM
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New Guy
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Old 54 & Orchidskip, I installed a CPP booster on my '53 3/4 GMC, drum-drum & it made a world of difference ! I have not experienced any real noticable fade !
According to my inst. manual from CPP,
you do not need a proportioning valve (only for disc / drum app.). because you have a different braking application with the disc !
Old54... There is a vacume booster available if you find that you may need one, I would try the unit without 1st ! Let us know how it works out...
P.S. Make sure you bleed the brakes right, on mine it took awhile
to do & I almost forgot, you will have to bend new lines for
the fronts , keep that in mind...did you get an inst. manual
when you bought the unit !


'53 GMC "Ranger"

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