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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 261 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 261 | Not really an "interior" question since the problem is on both sides - the glass on my 49 3600 (at least on the passenger side) appears to be effectively rusted in place in the old weatherstripping channel; I sprayed it down with some penetrating oil but any other suggestions on how to loosen it up (without breaking it) - so maybe the question should be any suggestions on what I SHOULDN'T do  ? Obviously some new channels and weatherstripping will be in order, but I'd like to gently free things up and will likely have it on the road before I get to the windows. I have the panels off and the regulator sprayed down as well, my thought was to keep gently working the crank and keep spraying it down. Of course, I also need the regulator to STAY in place until I get around to the channels. I have had windows drop before. Anyone who's had a similar situation? Usually, I ain't driving these things while I'm working on them so I'd just take it apart and get to rebuilding. Thanks in advance!
1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver OT Vehicles: 1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six 1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts) 1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway) 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy 1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 | Were is it rusted? Is it the regulator itself? Are the rollers rusted in place? Is there any glass movement when you turn the regulator? Is the window frame rusted in the weatherstrip channel?
Ed
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 261 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 261 | Thanks for the response (and sorry I didn't see the "doors" section originally!).
It appears to be rusted into the weatherstrip channel surrounding the window opening.
Regulator itself appears pretty clean. I've got the rollers soaking. I can't get any movement out of the crank handle.
1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver OT Vehicles: 1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six 1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts) 1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway) 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy 1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 1,004 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 1,004 | my 2 cents if the glass is that rusted, don't force the handle/regulator, it can't take that much and will deform/stretch the gear teeth and will be sloppy forever more or the aluminum handle will strip on the spline. i suggest hands on each side of the glass and try to pull it down, get it to move that way
the glass is much cheaper than the regulator assembly if you need to break something price out all the parts first, because i saw prices like $70 for the regulator, but the glass i can get those for $30 at my local glass shop cut-to-pattern -s | | | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,480 AD Addict & Tinkerer | | AD Addict & Tinkerer Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,480 | Try working a thin putty knife between the glass and the weatherstripping on both sides. That may help loosening it up. If you can’t get any movement out of the handle, it may be the regulator, so keep that in mind.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc BrakesProject JournalsStovebolt Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 | If you remove the inside window frame from the door you should be able to do what Phil said and go between the glass frame and the weatherstripping. You may even be able to access a little bit of the frame top and lightly pry down the window frame while gently working the regulator. If you can get a little clearance you may be able to slip a nylon tie wrap over the window frame to the other side. If you can somehow do that you could use the tie wrap like a saw and break the window frame away from the weatherstripping while gently working the regulator. The line used in weed eaters might also work if you can get a little bit clearance. The front of the window might be a good place to work with because it goes down first.
Ed
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 261 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 261 | Thanks to everybody; that is all great information.
I've ordered a new glass channel kit so I'll give those suggestions a try.
1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver OT Vehicles: 1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six 1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts) 1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway) 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy 1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 261 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2020 Posts: 261 | Just to update this; I followed the suggestions above and managed to get it rolling up and down. The regulator was not frozen and once I got the weaterstripping free, the whole thing started moving.
It was NOT a quick job, took a lot of patience and gentle tapping here and there, plus using a bondo spreader and gasket scraper here and there to work the penetrating oil in.
I do have a new channel kit and weatherstripping coming.
The drivers' side, unfortunately, the regulator is already broken. I went to repeat over there (there was no handle on the crank, should have tipped me off) and discovered the splines are stripped. When I went to try some pliers on the shaft, the shaft actually just spins freely. So, one regulator to add to the cart on Monday. That's all right, could be worse!
Last edited by NorthCoast3800; 04/05/2020 3:50 AM.
1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver OT Vehicles: 1925 Hudson Brougham Super Six 1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts) 1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway) 1973 F250 4x4 Highboy 1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 | Thanks for update. Regulator repair kits are available if you are so inclined. Good luck.
Ed
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