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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 26 | Any suggestions on plugging holes in a frame? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 110 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 110 | For cosmetics or structural repair?
Jim
Good luck with your project!
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 26 | I am converting to a Mustang 2 frontend and I want to fill all the old rivet holes for cosmetics reasons. I tried a couple things with my welder but they did not work. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 26 | I am not having much luck with this innershield welding wire either. It seems to want to build up on top of the metal instead of penetrating and it looks like crap. I have tried different temperature settings also. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,877 | The easiest way is to use a gas shielded mig and clamp a thick copper plate to the back side then weld the other side shut, remove the copper, weld a bit on the back then grind.
It is also easy and nice looking to tig weld them.
You can also stick weld with the copper piece behind, that works good to, but better when it is vertical so the slag runs off instead of puddling up in the hole. You can weld some, stop and remove slag and weld some more though.
Hope this helps,
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 110 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 110 | Grigg is spot on. Pure copper strips are best. Eastwood and others sell them. Work at little at a time to keep heat distorsion down.
A metal worker job shop could knock you out slugs in the gage you need for a few bucks too.
Jim
Good luck with your project!
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