The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 starting troubles

My 235 typically starts pretty easily when cool. It's problematic when warm and normal opp temps. The engine will turn over and will try to start a time or two. If I crank long, I assume it floods and/or the battery (new Duracell from Batteries Plus), as of 2018, drains not turning the engine over fast enough.

The valves were adjusted today (hydraulic lifters) to 1/2 turn past the point of initial tension felt on the push rods.
The timing was timed where the ball is slight towards the right of the needle as recommended on another post. Vacuum line was disconnected and carb plugged.
I set the the air/fuel mixture screw as stated. Dialed out 1/2 turn at the point the engine had a noticeable decline in rpm.

It idles quite well and accelerates pretty well too. Small lag and/or sputter at times of acceleration when I press the throttle quicker than a gradual press. Maybe it just needs running more!?

Compression came in at 105 prior to the re-adjustment of the valves. I believe I had them adjusted too open previously. I have not check the compression since todays valve adjustment.

The 6v battery has a trickle charger that i leave on regularly. The starter has been rebuilt and tested twice by two electricians. Battery cables are new and are 1/2 inch thick on both +/-. Terminals are clean and contact to engine and starter on clear. Negative cable has an added cable from the engine to the frame.

Has aluminum radiator and cools well!

That's about all I have from memory. Thoughts?

Last time i had that kind of starting issuse with my 54 3100,it was the coil. Start good cold, no start hot, coil was hot to touch.i think once i poured water over it to cool it down to start. It was still 6v at that time too. When it doesnt start,pull a plug wire off and have someone crank the engine over.hold the wire close to the engine or a bolt and see if you have a spark jumping to ground. Oh, use insulated pliers to hold the ing lead. If you do have spark you will feel it !

Just a thought .I also have a 54 with a 235 and had a problem were mine would not start after it was warm ( operating temperature).before I figured out my problem I noticed it would fire right up if I dumped the clutch after a slight roll down a hill .It turned out to be the ground seemed to loose the ground when warm and would not start but once running was fine.l cleaned up the ground wire from the engine to the frame and was all good .I have read in some forms that the ground from the battery goes to the frame then from the frame to the engine .If I remember right you can use a longer battery cable to go direct to the engine block for a better connection.

Congratulations on figuring out your problem.

Yes, you can run the hot cable lead directly from the battery to the starter.
You could also run a ground wire from the battery to a starter mounting bolt.
I have done this.

Use at least a 1 gauge cable and ground straps/cables.
I use 00 gauge.

However, you can also successfully use the original style/length cables and original attachment points, if you use the heavy gauge cables/straps (all ground straps) AND if you clean all attachment points until you have shiny metal.

Coat all all connection points (protect from oxidation) with an antioxidant conductive grease. That copper-colored grease is readily available in small tubs/jars at most auton stores.