Bought some goodies for my 49 from Classic Parts and the stainless steel rear fender braces looked pretty cheaply made. If cheaply is a word. I was able to bend the ends to fit the angle I needed which was nice but the length was way off. The drivers side was a little short which was ok cause all I had to do was turn the hole into a slot. On the passengers side the brace was about 1 1/4" to short. I had to fab up an extension to make fit it to the truck. I'll paint it black so it wont be as noticeable when you look under the truck. Don't you just love it when aftermarket parts don't fit. That's just the way these ole trucks are. I love tinkering with them.
"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem" 1949 5 Window 3100 Follow in the DITY Veteran of the USAF My Website
If you mean the rod style braces, they are bolted on with 1/4-20 hex head bolts. Also a couple of flat washers under the head and nut.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
On my 50 I found clutch head bolt on the fender side of rod, it may be year or assembly plant specific.
I don't remember the frame side but I used a hex head on the frame
You may be right about the clutch head bolt at the fender. I vaguely recall that as well, and the FAM shows a round head bolt there. If a concours restoration, a clutch head would be correct, but for the average guy, who's gonna know? Stainless brace looks good, but probably overkill as far as the need for corrosion resistance.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I have old pieces of stainless tubing lying around the shop from old rig builds. I cut them to length, bent them, pinched the ends in a vise, and drilled them out. They were cheap, quick, easy to make, stainless, and were free. I did both the front and rear of my truck with them.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
I have old pieces of stainless tubing lying around the shop from old rig builds. I cut them to length, bent them, pinched the ends in a vise, and drilled them out. They were cheap, quick, easy to make, stainless, and were free. I did both the front and rear of my truck with them.
Interesting. I had to make an extension for the passengers side because it was a little short. Where might one look for stainless steel tubing that is the correct diameter?
"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem" 1949 5 Window 3100 Follow in the DITY Veteran of the USAF My Website
If you have a Parker store nearby, they'll likely have a stock of stainless steel instrument tubing. You'll probably need to buy a 10' stick. Another alternative is an online outfit called Small Parts. They now sell thru Amazon. I think they sell in various lengths.I bought a 6' length of 1/2" OD from them a number of years ago to lengthen a towel bar. That was before they went to Amazon. FYI, the originals were solid plain steel round bar. You'd probably have to apply some heat to flatten the ends of that. The tubing is a good idea, and probably stiff enough to do the trick.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I used 1/2”. It has lasted for a 1000 miles so far.
That tubing is handy to have lying around. You will find other uses for it. Guaranteed.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300