Just to bring closure to this thread. I purchased a new set of rear brake shoes to see if that made any difference. Shoes were the only thing I didn't triple check. Any suggestions i got from Stovebolt I tried but nothing worked. Unfortunately the new shoes did not fix the PB problem! The PB lever still hits the axle before engaging and the wheel cylinders are still screwed out way to far to get the slightest hint of a drag. I'm stumped! Thank you to all who helped. Looks like I'll be driving without a parking brake.
Just a thought. Do you possibly have Bendix PB levers on Huck brakes?
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
In my opinion, you do not have a parking brake issue. Given that your wheel cylinders are nearly cranked all of the way out in order for the shoes to make contact with the drums, leads me to believe that your issue is elsewhere. None of the parking brake parts can have any affect, nor can they overcome the cranked out cylinder screws. Don't know if that helps. Its just my 2 cents.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Thanks Carl. Don't know where else to look. Tried new shoes. No effect. Tried new cylinders. No effect. Measured inside of rear drum. Same inside diameter as a new drum (11"). Handy Andy and I have tried everything we can think of.
You need to find someone who has the same year truck who is in the process of doing a brake job so that you can compare parts. You either have wrong parts or a part installed in the wrong position.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I'll be happy to re-measure any of the components as the camera angles certainly can be deceiving. The thing that bothers me about this matter is the amount of adjustment needed on the wheel cylinders to contact the brake drums for even a light drag. I have to wonder if the brake drums are past the service life spec of 281.7 mm or 11.090"?
I still do not see any "J" hooks and hold down springs! These are important. I also have issue with the reproduction adjusting caps on the wheel cylinders "cheesie tin" Use original cast caps. Jerry
Thank you, Jerry ------------------------------------ Jerry's Body Shop #52 [email protected] 816-833-4414 ------------------------------------
I still do not see any "J" hooks and hold down springs! These are important. I also have issue with the reproduction adjusting caps on the wheel cylinders "cheesie tin" Use original cast caps. Jerry
Not all years of Huck assemblies had the j-hooks and hold down springs. I am totally on board with you about the inferior tin foil reproduction caps.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Ok everyone here is my update. I have replaced my rear wheel cylinders, brake shoes and brake drums. All of that hoping to resolve the problem that when I adjust the wheel cylinders so there is a slight shoe drag on the drum the adjustment screws are way to far out considering everything is new (see pic above). I got all my parts from Classic Parts in MO. There is certainly something wrong with the either the wheel cylinder, the shoes or the drum. I am truly at a loss in solving this problem. I am down to welding tabs on the shoes where they interface with the adjustment screws to reduce the outward adjustment. Just can't figure out how this was set up in the factory.
I can attest to Jon's attention to detail on his Huck style brake problem. This started out as a parking brake cable installation; however, it quickly turned into a brake problem. In order to get the parking brake functional the brake adjuster dilemma has to be resolved. You can see from the pictures Jon has posted, the amount of adjustment needed on the brake shoes/wheel cylinders to obtain a slight drag on the brake drums. The adjustment appears to be excessive, even with new shoes, wheel cylinders and drums.
About five years ago, I went through the same Huck brake rebuilding process. I replaced all lines, M/C, wheel cylinders, and brake shoes, albeit from another local vendor. The brake drums were good. My parking brake components were long gone. After I acquired the needed parts, all were assembled without any problems resulting in new Huck brakes and a functional parking brake.
Could reproduction parts be an issue, specifically the wheel cylinders? Have any of you Stovebolters experienced this problem? It seems odd to me that all new brake components result in the situation at hand. Let us know, we want to hear from you, thanks!
OK, lets back waaaaay up. What is the history of this truck, specifically the rear axle and all of the parts associated with the brakes? What did you throw out and replace? For the geometry to be so far off for the wheel cylinder adjusters to be turned out so far to make contact with the drum, I have to wonder about the correctness of the parts attached to the bottom pivot pin, or the location of the holes in the backing plate for the two bolts down there.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
On Wagoner/Lockheed the bottom two bolts are concentric and are part of the adjustment process. Not sure about Huck, I’ve never worked on them.ðŸ›
Last edited by Justhorsenround; 03/31/202011:41 PM.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Carl, I've had the truck a number of years but never got around to its restoration. That is now nearly done. The individual i purchased it from was using it as a daily driver. Don't know much beyond that. As far as I know everything was original (a few minor exceptions). Don't really know how I would determine if the backing plate or rear axle was ever replaced. As far as the brakes go everything is original with the exception of the brake shoes and wheel cylinder (unfortunately I threw the originals out prematurely). I did purchase a new drum just to see what the actual ID of a new drum was. The replacement shoes and cylinder came from Classic Parts. I called them today to see if they could help or had any ideas. They said they have never encountered this problem and provided no help. I will check the bottom pivot pin and bolts location with Andy as we have been using his 48 or 49 (i forget which) as a reference since his brake geometry seems to be just fine.
Andy, I compared your measurements with my truck and they are the same (+-)! The geometry is the same. So I am back to square one. The Problem has to be in the shoes, cylinder or drum. Except we have checked all of those. Guess I will have to run the truck with the adjusted screws out to far and no parking brake unless someone with more knowledge than me has a solution. Again, thanks for all your help. jon
Based on all of our measuring, comparing, and component swaps. I believe the only variable left is in the internals of the wheel cylinders. The piston, cup, or spring (or all) in the wheel cylinder must not be as thick/long as it (they) should be, causing you to have to crank the adjusters so far out. See Fig.50-Wheel Cylinder Parts Layout from the 1948-51 Chevy Truck Shop Manual. Since the geometry all checks out, my recommendation would be find another source for the rear wheel cylinders.
Keep us posted.......
Last edited by HandyAndy; 04/04/20206:03 PM. Reason: Spring added to text.
I am going to bring an end to this thread that I started. Originally it started as a parking brake issue but I (we) realized that it was really a brake issue. The Problem had to be with The drum, shoes or wheel cylinder. The Problem was when the brakes were fully assembled with new repro parts in order to get the slightest drag on the drums the wheel cylinder adjusters had to be adjusted 1/2" out (way to far). After trying many things the conclusion is that the wheel cylinder body length is to small. I have tried new cylinders from several sources without any luck. So I am going to have to live with the set up i have. Thank you all for your advise, ideas, suggestions and help.
