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#1349336 03/09/2020 11:08 AM
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'Bolter
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Bought some goodies for my 49 from Classic Parts and the stainless steel rear fender braces looked pretty cheaply made. If cheaply is a word. I was able to bend the ends to fit the angle I needed which was nice but the length was way off. The drivers side was a little short which was ok cause all I had to do was turn the hole into a slot. On the passengers side the brace was about 1 1/4" to short. I had to fab up an extension to make fit it to the truck. I'll paint it black so it wont be as noticeable when you look under the truck. Don't you just love it when aftermarket parts don't fit. That's just the way these ole trucks are. I love tinkering with them.


"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem"
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Can someone tell me what type and size bolts hold the rear fender braces on? Philips head to hex head bolts?


"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem"
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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If you mean the rod style braces, they are bolted on with 1/4-20 hex head bolts. Also a couple of flat washers under the head and nut.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by klhansen
If you mean the rod style braces, they are bolted on with 1/4-20 hex head bolts. Also a couple of flat washers under the head and nut.
Thanks for the info.


"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem"
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On my 50 I found clutch head bolt on the fender side of rod, it may be year or assembly plant specific.

I don't remember the frame side but I used a hex head on the frame
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by DADS50
On my 50 I found clutch head bolt on the fender side of rod, it may be year or assembly plant specific.

I don't remember the frame side but I used a hex head on the frame
Thanks for the info. Stopping by the local Rural King store after work to pick up some stainless steel nuts and bolts.


"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem"
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Stainless steel braces are installed.
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Last edited by olezippi; 03/12/2020 10:56 AM.

"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem"
1949 5 Window 3100
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Posts: 11,065
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Posts: 11,065
Originally Posted by DADS50
On my 50 I found clutch head bolt on the fender side of rod, it may be year or assembly plant specific.

I don't remember the frame side but I used a hex head on the frame
You may be right about the clutch head bolt at the fender. I vaguely recall that as well, and the FAM shows a round head bolt there. If a concours restoration, a clutch head would be correct, but for the average guy, who's gonna know?
Stainless brace looks good, but probably overkill as far as the need for corrosion resistance.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
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The stainless fasteners these days are prone to gall

Anti seize rated for stainless is highly recommended.

Ive moved away from the stainless fasteners because of this. But I don't live in an area where I have to worry about rust.




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'Bolter
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Yeah...I kinda like the stainless steel because it looks better and will hold up longer. I guess it's a personal thing.


"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem"
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I agree thumbs_up

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A teacher, but always an apprentice.
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I have old pieces of stainless tubing lying around the shop from old rig builds. I cut them to length, bent them, pinched the ends in a vise, and drilled them out. They were cheap, quick, easy to make, stainless, and were free. I did both the front and rear of my truck with them.


1970 Chevrolet C10
Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny
Follow the build in the Project Journal
1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually
"Ole Red Girl"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures here
1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's
Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
Fox #1350179 03/16/2020 11:06 AM
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Fox
I have old pieces of stainless tubing lying around the shop from old rig builds. I cut them to length, bent them, pinched the ends in a vise, and drilled them out. They were cheap, quick, easy to make, stainless, and were free. I did both the front and rear of my truck with them.
Interesting. I had to make an extension for the passengers side because it was a little short. Where might one look for stainless steel tubing that is the correct diameter?


"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem"
1949 5 Window 3100
Follow in the DITY
Veteran of the USAF
My Website
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,065
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,065
If you have a Parker store nearby, they'll likely have a stock of stainless steel instrument tubing. You'll probably need to buy a 10' stick.
Another alternative is an online outfit called Small Parts. They now sell thru Amazon. I think they sell in various lengths.I bought a 6' length of 1/2" OD from them a number of years ago to lengthen a towel bar. That was before they went to Amazon.
FYI, the originals were solid plain steel round bar. You'd probably have to apply some heat to flatten the ends of that. The tubing is a good idea, and probably stiff enough to do the trick.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,168
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Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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I used 1/2”. It has lasted for a 1000 miles so far.

That tubing is handy to have lying around. You will find other uses for it. Guaranteed.


1970 Chevrolet C10
Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny
Follow the build in the Project Journal
1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually
"Ole Red Girl"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures here
1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's
Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300

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