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#134891 07/31/2006 3:32 AM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
Ran into a problem with my T-5 install. The throw out bearing does not completely disengage the clutch when the pedal is pressed in and it doesn't fully engage the clutch when the pedal is not pressed in. There is almost no clearance for the throw out bearing. It is touching both the fingers for the diaphragm on the pressure plate and the housing of the transmission. I used the stock throw out bearing and fork (58-62 truck. It is an updated full pressure motor.) with a stock pressure plate (10.4" from a 58-62 passenger car. That is what was in the truck when I bought it from the PO.)and a RCF-4201 clutch disc. I am stumped. I am going to get a shorter throw out bearing tomorrow. This should fix it right? Any suggestions?

#134892 07/31/2006 4:32 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 244
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 244
When I helped my son install a T5 in is '60 Burb with a 350 engine, we experienced the same problem. What I did was use 1/8" thick flat bar x 1" wide and placed it as a "shim" between the transmission and bell housing thus setting the transmission back in order for the throw-out bear to fully be released.

#134893 07/31/2006 7:22 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
I thought of spacing it out with four washers on the tranny bolts. Should I try this first or just go with a shorter throw out bearing? It seems to me that a shorter throw out bearing would not compromise the strength of the mount. I only have a 235 but I intend to hot rod the motor with a dual intake, split exhaust, and 3/4 cam in the near future. Anyone else have some input? I had a couple throw out bearings laying around and I am pretty sure I can get one that has the same measurements but is 1/2" shorter. Anyone else have an opinion?

#134894 07/31/2006 10:51 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
There are two styels of diaphram type clutches. The old style had the levers straight out & recessed back in the clutch an inch or so. It uses a long t.o. brg. The later one & most replacements had the fingers protruding forward about even with with the outer edge of the pressure plate, commonaly called a beehive clutch. It uses a short T.O. brg. I recently did one on my 55-2 & didn,t have any problem although I did grind the splines a little longer like one of the Bolters suggested.


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#134895 08/01/2006 3:44 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 244
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 244
Washers will work as shims. That's what we would have used but it was late and town is 30 miles away so the flat bar was the next best thing wink .

#134896 08/04/2006 3:38 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 99
The shorter throwout bearing fixed the clutch but there is a noise coming from the drivetrain. See T-5 drivetrain noise.


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