The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Drop axle or mono leaf spring **NEW QUESTION**

I want to lower the front end of my 53 Chev 3100 by about 2-3 inches and was wondering what are the pros/cons of going with either a dropped axle (purchesed, to just bolt in) or going with either a mono leaf or dropped leaf spring set up.

They both seem to have about the same cost. What are the issues with installation, modicifations, and ride quality, etc?

I will be dropping in a SBC and auto tranny. It will be used as a cruiser, to some shows once in a while.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Tom

Tom,

Either way is pretty easy. The mono leaf springs are probably a little more expensive than a dropped axle. But both are pretty much in the $500.00 range once you buy all the needed parts.

If you do the axle you pretty much have to replace the king pins. If you do the springs you will want to do the bushings and clamps.

On either project you have to make sure the tie rod will still go under everything. Some people have the steering arms dropped along with the axle. I flipped the tie rod ends so the tie rod hangs down below the steering arms. That can cause tire clearance problems if you are running wider radial tires in front.

Since I am not finished with my project I can't comment on ride quality. There have been many posts about this and you can find a lot in the archives.

Some people just take out a few leafs.

I've heard that you can also flip the springs and that'll lower things a little.

For $500 and some time you could buy a used Mustang II to get it's front clip and then graft it in and that'll lower the front end as well as improve ride quality and steering.

you would be better off putting a mustang II or subframing it if your going to put a small block because the steering box will be in the way. you can modify the stock steering box but its more time and $

I have a 4" dropped axle in my 1948 3100 with a few leafs taken out of each spring pack. I had to heat and bend the steering arms down for the tierod to clear the leafs springs. I'm still running a 235. If you plan on going the V-8 route, it's probably easier to go the Mustang II route in the long run. It will cost a few $$$ more but it will stop, ride, and handle much better.

-Rich

Here's a link to a pic of it to get an idea on how it sits:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c13/rsg2506/dcp_0035-1.jpg

Thanks for all the great information. I am thinking of purchasing these springs Springs What do you think??


But with information always comes more questions.

This issue of the SBC not fitting with power steering (The commonly purchased ready made kit type, not some fabricated one in my shop) and a straight axle causes me some grief I didn't think about. :confused: Is this sometime I will have to be concerned with?

Thanks again

Tom

I think the power steering box will clear the sbc manifolds unlike the original non power steering box. I too amd puting in a 283/th350 with the solid axle. I decided to go with original spring height so I could have some suspension travel. My truck will look stock but have modern running gear. If you want it lower I would suggest the drop axle.

I think the power steering box will clear the sbc manifolds unlike the original non power steering box. I too amd puting in a 283/th350 with the solid axle. I decided to go with original spring height so I could have some suspension travel. My truck will look stock but have modern running gear. If you want it lower I would suggest the drop axle. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress, Wayne

You have the right idea by asking and planning. I’ve got a 46 similar but not exact. I wanted to keep the straight axle and get it lower so I put on the mono leaf. I did get the height I wanted but the ride is stiff. I changed to tube shocks and new tie rod ends. I had to move the steering box to clear the V8 which caused me to make up an adjustable drag link (a recent up grade talked into here on stovebolt). I can now say you will want to be able to center the box. I put on disk breaks with a power booster (where do you want to mount it) because a little whoa! is good .As said earlier there is no thrifty way around it.

I have the springs in your link and am happy with the way they perform. I did have to "clearance" the cast bracket to get them to "fit". These springs DID lower the truck from the "factory stock" height, but did NOT lower the truck, because my front leaf springs were already sagging 2 1/2". Another thing to keep in mind, I think the GM 350 motor is about 50 pounds lighter than the 6 cylinder. Someone will correct me if I am wrong.

ok, here's my experience. I have a '49 3100 with a 350 hp 327 & m21. In the late '70's I swapped in a 3" dropped axle from Mordrop in Oakland Ca.
I did have to build a new tierod & mount it under the steering arms to clear the springs. It's worked great all these years with the stock steering, but as I get older, I appreciate the finer things in life like power steering.I'm now in the process of installing a Jeep Cherokee tilt wheel connected to a Toyota 4x4 p/s box ( Iknow that's herasy !!) mounted forward on the frame at the core support. I originally had the stock steering box mounted on a spacer bracket to clear the exaust. good luck on this one.