Looking for some 8.25x20 tires. I’ve done a search on this site and all of the threads are years old. Looking for more up to date info on what tires other big bolters have gone with.
Last edited by Peggy M; 07/08/20245:49 PM. Reason: added more info to the title
It is getting hard to get split rim wheels changed, now might be a good opportunity to look for some 22.5 rims and then get new tires. Even used rims are a good place to start.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
I got my 7.5 x 20 tires from Specialty Tires Of America (STA) about 5 years ago. The rubber compound is wearing very well and so far the rubber is not checking. They sell their product through Summit, Coker, and others. Not cheap but I am happy with the quality.
22.5 rims with that bolt pattern came on first tubeless tires in the late '50's. They are found on farmtrucks, other like things. Might be worth keeping an eye out while traveling around.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
I thought the 50s the pilot hole was 5.25 vs 4.75....
That is correct, I'm not aware of them ever making the 22.5 with the 4.75" center hole. Chevrolet introduced the 22.5 in 1956 and the center holes were 5.25 by then.
I bought mine on ebay. Couldn't beat the price and they came with the flaps. I had an old timer by me break them down so I could clean and paint them. He put them all back together for $120. It was well worth it to me.
I have been reading this thread because I am having the same issue. (Just Posted today 1951 6500)
Just for clarification - 22.5 with 4.75 center holes do not exist. However they do exist with center hole 5.25 - Are you guys using a hub ring to make up difference?
Also are the rims that whateverpratt - posted not a good idea for replacement rims?
Those tires would work but the not the Dayton rims and they are in Florida, by the time I pay shipping the cost will go way up and they look like old tires not sure how much life I’d get out of them.
I was just thinking about the hub ring and when I get home tonight I’ll measure it.
One thing I'm not sure about is how adaptable those Dayton wheels are. Are the axles specific to the Dayton wheels, or will the large center portion bolt to axles that didn't originally come with that style wheel? I haven't started taking them apart yet to really look at them
Liquidated my projects Now looking for a decent '47-'55.1 3100, 3600, or 3800
Drums and Hubs are different between Dayton and Disc wheels and there were lots of optional axles back then, so it will require a lot of leg work to confirm if any of the axle parts are interchangeable.
I wouldn’t mind 22.5 if I could find adaptors that would work for the 10x7.25 bolt pattern in a 4.75 center. This guy is running adaptors from 8-10 lug. I wish I could find some that would work for my truck, 1940 1.5 ton.
I'm running 5.25 tubeless 22.5s on a 40 Chevy and made sleeves to hub pilot the wheels no big deal to make used well casing machined to press fit to hub&OD to fit wheel w/.005 Clarence.
The missing puzzle piece for me was not understanding the 10-lug 4.75 & the 5.25 centers shared the same 7.25 Bolt Circle. (I thought maybe the 10-lug spacing grew in relationship to the center hole)
It was not until I went back and reviewed the "Wheels and What to Do Post" by Grigg's - looks like 56' and beyond until they switched the size of hole center again.
Late to the table on that one;)
This may allow for some options I have not considered yet.
The 5/10 lug 22.5" rims are getting hard to find. This is because most trucks back then were bought new with 20's (even though the 22.5's were standard equipment), so you're now in competition with those guy's who are trying to replace their RH-5's with the correct 22.5" rims.
To make things worse the 5/10 lug 22.5" rims were only found on the 1956 and up 4000 Series (1-1/2 ton) trucks, the 2-ton trucks had 6-lug rims.
Same here. I've been looking for 22.5s for the '35 for a long time now. New made up wheels wouldn't quite look right, and would be more expensive than the truck cost!
Same here. I've been looking for 22.5s for the '35 for a long time now. New made up wheels wouldn't quite look right, and would be more expensive than the truck cost!
Why are you looking for new rims for your '35?
The original 2-piece Lock Ring rims are still serviceable at any big truck/farm tire shop as long as they aren't rusted out...
The guys at the tire center laughed pretty hard when they balanced the wheels. The run out is really bad, and they wobble with authority. No amount of balancing will fix this and I've yet to find anyone that can correct the run out.
Oh, I'm talking about run out I can see while standing outside looking through the tire store bay doors, with the tire machine at least 40 feet away. More like .5 inch, rather than .015. You think there are 20" wheels out there in better shape? I just assumed they were all like that, since all 6 on my truck are.
You can fix that amount of run out with a bottle jack and a tire stand that is very solidly mounted to the concrete floor or on a large sheet of steel. Clamp the rim tight Find the low spot and block it up with the jack on the floor with any reasonable spacer Push up in the low spots and the whole rim will bend bringing the high spot Down on the opposite side Take many measurements Make small adjustment until you have a feel for how far the rim springs back before it yields to permanent deformation/correction Eventually you should be able to get it more than good enough for Driving on dirt and gravel roads under 50 mph.
If you tire stand is not securely mounted to the surface against which the bottle jack pushes up from then you will lift the tire stand off the floor It takes tons of gentile controlled force to reshape the rim in this manner Lag bolts in concrete will likely be pulled out The tire stand need to be threaded to the rebar or L bolts in the floor when it was poured or the whole thing mounted to a sheet of steel like what I have.
